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Some of it is possibly technique related. Curling the bucket rather than crowd with the dipper stick will help.

Do you have a compression release? I would pull it if you have it, at bare minimum I would have turned the engine over several revolutions by hand. Not familiar with your tractor, but most engines have a nut you can get onto holding the crank pulley.

I run my PTO in low gear, then throttle up to ~2000 when using the BH. Pretty sure the older multi-speed PTO's are set up to get 540 in 1st gear. Try it and let us know. If I run in 2nd the functions are too fast and not strong enough, just like trying to drive in too high of gear for the job...

Are we talking a bent loader frame, or just the rams are not extended equally? If just the rams, might be just because the bucket is off. Can you post some pics? Are the pads independent or connected by steel structure? Did you try retracting them? When the first one bottoms out, the second...

Russell is correct, you really only need a top link to pick the whole thing up. You should be running on the rear wheel and holding the front end up level with your 3 point lower links. If you drag it on the rails you're going to be in the dirt a lot. I'm constantly adjusting the 3 point...

With that much land to maintain, and the description of the jobs you want to start with, I'm going to suggest you go a little larger and look for an L series with R1 ag tires.

I'm with Wolfman, I'd plug it if it's tubeless.

You're spot on LF, open diffs up front. They both pull when they have traction. Look at the size of the arcs that the fronts travel, huge difference in path length.

Looks just like my 1200 loader. My dealer had no trouble ordering seal kits.

Russell's description is correct for my L245DT. Tubular screen that comes in from the left hand side at the bottom of the case. I got a replacement from the dealer because mine was in pretty crappy shape, it was only about $15.

It sounds good in theory, but it's a long way behind the rear axle. It's not going to handle that well if the trailer is of any weight. Too much leverage in every sense.

I wonder if he's got one of those "creeper" setups he's mistaking for "Low"?

You DO NOT have to jack the tractor up and take weight off of the tires to check the pressure. Put the valve up at the 12:00 position to minimize fluid loss/mess. Don't make it any more complicated or worse unsafe than need be.

Ok, we've been to this movie before. I'll say most of our tractors have 3 points that float, they don't apply any down force. Gravity pulls it down. The control simply sets the lowest level the implement is allowed to fall, but it can and will ride up from there if it is pushed. My...

Just as a point of clarification, some fluids are labeled as hydraulic, some as tractor fluid. I don't know what the real difference is, but I use tractor fluid that is labeled for gears, hydraulics, and wet brakes. The Walmart tractor fluid is very light. Service Dept. Vic has a bunch of...

Great news! It's always impressed me how easy it's been to get parts for a ~35 year old machine.

Welcome, the maintenance is really no different from a process standpoint. Drain, replace filter, refill, etc. Yes use diesel rated oil. Rotella, Delo, Delvac, etc. I use Walmart tractor fluid, but mine's an old gear drive. Guys with newer HST machines usually like to spend a little more...

Stuck/clogged/frozen zerks don't take grease, and don't allow the pump to cycle at all in my experience. If it pumps and you don't see grease, it's filling up a cavity somewhere, keep pumping till it comes out.

I have a Braber Agri-Ease chipper, a clone of Wallenstein. It works very well, and is self feeding. The major difference between it an the Woodmax, is the Wallenstein and Agri-Ease are direct drive, no belts. They have a larger diameter, lower RPM flywheel with 4 knives instead of a smaller...

Is it pocked on sealing surfaces and causing a problem? I don't see how knocking down the inserts is going to buy you anything, it came that way from the factory, right?