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If I go which route, the 4 loose hoses? I have to have hoses to fittings off of that valve either way, right? You're just saying I should mount the QDs in a metal panel permanently instead, right? I'm all for keeping the price down, but I'm certain I'm still not seeing how this all fits...

So, this thing is built with the idea in mind that the 4 connectors on the top are attached to hoses that then have the quick disconnects on the other end of the hose? So then I can find a place to mount those QDs on a plate facing towards the back, or I could potentially leave them as hoses...

With the valve handles (two handles, might as well go top and side link!) facing directly back and the quick disconnects facing up under the seat?

So continuing with this idea, it seems like the biggest question left is where would it be mounted? I went and looked at the tractor, with the seat facing forward and back (backhoe mode), and looking at the right console area with the seat twisted to see if it interferes. Right now there's a...

Ok, so let me see if I'm getting this: I get the above valve, which comes with the control handles integrated into it. (In fact, while I'm at it, I might as well get the 2 spool in case I want to add a tilt, right?) I would also have to get the actual hydraulic quick connector, 2 for each...

Thanks Dan, that's very kind. Let me start down this path and see what scares me. First, I have to identify what valve kit I'm needing. Is that listed obscurely on the Kubota site somewhere, or maybe a kit from Summit?

I do kinda believe that, since the hydraulic source is already back there. Unfortunately, without an explicit guide, I'm not brave enough to try it. Way to advanced for me to DIY, and probably too expensive to have the dealer do it.

Hi Vigo. On a boxblade thread, you mentioned getting the power toplink, and you referenced the hydraulic/electric combo toplink. I can see it in your pics. Can you tell me where you got that from? Thanks. rob

Ha, it wasn't just you, I wasn't clear in my head either. I've NOT heard about an electric solenoid, it was an electric/hydraulic combo toplink that I heard about.

I WAS WRONG! I found the thread where it was hinted at, and it is NOT a simple electric linear motor. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/selecting-a-box-blade-for-a-subcompact.57647/page-2#post-549627 He mentions a hydraulic top link with an attached electric hydraulic pump.

Hmm...I looked through that whole thread, but didn't see anything to give me courage. I'm not experienced enough to be able to infer how something might relate to my own situation, so I need something that is specifically about adding rear hydraulics to a B2650 that has a B77 backhoe and a 3rd...

Ya, someone in a previous thread mentioned it, and I said i'd love to hear more, but they never elaborated. I may have to go dig it up.

I love my box blade and have a lot of smoothing/grading of my backyard to do, and would love the flexibility that a moving toplink would give me. But having seen a few videos of what adding rear remotes would look like, given that I have a backhoe, I'm not liking it. I've heard of an electric...

My first post about connecting lights (an older thread than this one) includes a pic of what was on my tractor before I got started....so I'd assume that's stock. And I can't really tell ya more than that because I'm pretty sure I cut those connectors off and put my own on...

Hey, just because you don't love YOUR tractor enough to give it the good stuff..... Then again, every $ saved can go towards the next implement. The little bottle of loctite was only $24, but I made sure it said Free Returns before I bought it. So I can send it back if the normal pipe dope is...

Did some research, and Loctite 545 seemed to have the least amount of shocked and aghast reactions to being used on the threads. So I'll go with that.

Ya, that's what I was initially thinking too. I can probably ziptie it out of the way. I'm having trouble finding the kind of cap I'd need to cover it anyway. I followed the hose as far as I could and found I'd have to remove the right rear tire to do anything with it there.

Heh...I like that kind of thinking.

I was basing my assumption off of this video, where he says definitely no tape if the fitting is flared or has a rubber o-ring, but otherwise yes if it's flat.

Ordered! While all the help is here....so, remove the old fitting with 2 wrenches, clean off the end, add teflon tape (wrapping the CORRECT way), keeping itseveral threads clear of the end, and then tighten the new fitting until....until it stops? Does that sound like a good plan?