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Ya, me too. I'll definitely keep this updated as I test things, and when the thing finally fires up again, I'll definitely update. This forum is SO great with help, that posting the learned knowledge for the next guy is one of the few ways I can give back.

So, progress (or more accurately lack of it). The entire goal for today was...get it into the garage. it's supposed to rain all day and besides not wanting my tractor to get wet (ya, I loves it too much) I wanted a clean/dry/lit place to do the troubleshooting instead of in the woods. The...

I am such a big chicken, I hate the sparks. :cautious: I'm certain I'd end up grounding the wrong thing. However...if I can identify the wire powering the starter, then I can at least measure if voltage appears on it when I turn the key. That will tell me that the safety switches aren't...

That's very generous. I would LOVE to get/buy a WSM for this tractor, I fully want to do the work/repairs on it for anything. I know the LX2610 is kind of the spiritual cousin of the 2650, so I'd love to take a look at it. If things look on the tractor like it says it should look in the...

Great advice, all of you thanks so much. So I just tried the jump start from my truck, and no luck. While in the seat, and with the key turned to start, I cycled the transmission lever through the whole range then put it back into Neutral, I engaged the PTO lever and then disengaged it, and...

I've never used the PTO, but you're right, it can still get bumped. I checked that as soon as I was having problems though, and it seemed fine. I then moved it to fully engaged, and then back to off...still nothing.

Float function...brilliant! Yes, it has one. I'll put it in float and lever the loader arms up and then put it in normal AND secure it to the ROPS. That should be enough to get it into the garage.

Good advice. Before I start poking around for other switches I'll pull up the truck and try a jump start. You're right, just testing at 12.6V when it's not being started doesn't prove much. I do keep a battery tender on the machine so the battery survives the winter...but I still don't know...

I saw this picture from my earlier searching for answers, and when I'd gone out, I could NOT find it or anything like it. So I went out just now to take a picture to post saying "See, no seat safety switch!"...and then I saw it. :) I was looking on the left hand side, not the right. So, I...

The good news is that I had JUST finished doing what I needed to get done, and was starting it up to put it away...when it wouldn't start. Tractor was running perfectly fine before this, it didn't die on me, I just turned it off. Battery light and low oil pressure lights come on when key set to...

My concern, when I wrote that, wasn't about blowing a fuse. I had read that the dynamo only puts out like 15 amps, total. I read that the tractor running normally uses about 5 amps, so I figured using 7 amps for lighting would make sure I wasn't starting to drain the battery....with plenty of...

Do you run them off a switch, or they just come on when you turn the key? Do you use a switch and relay?

Off by a factor of 4?? That's quite a difference between spec wattage and actual. I might buy some lights then and hook them up to a test stand and see how they rate before I decide how many to mount.

I like the creativity of where the lights are mounted there. For my situation, I don't expect I'll ever have the FEL off, so it's always going to be an obstacle for lighting from the front. I was leaning away from floodlights just to save some wattage. I figured the spotlights, place up high...

There are lots of great guides, though I can't seem to find any dealing with SPECIFICALLY the B2650. So the first thing I want to verify is the "work light lead". I THINK it's this, right? From what I've learned so far, I SHOULD be able to add about 84 watts worth of lights to ROPS before I...