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It's just been my experience that augers have limited ability to handle hard stuff. If you were in mixed clay/rock, the earth would laugh at a standard auger. If it was predrilled with something like that, the auger could then expand the hole out to the wider size easily, so it's not entirely...

Yup, I know what you mean. Dumped one of my loader valves in a bucket of parts washing fluid and it sank right to the bottom. Looked at my dad and said "Yup, no float..." :rolleyes: :p

It should be very hard to get that filter screw terminal to bend or get out of whack. You could test it with a small machinists square and also test the flatness of the seal seat while you are at it. It could just be the filter seal giving way that made the 'clunk' sound or something like gunk...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bore-Hole-Tool-Water-Well-Drilling-Equipment-Driller-Carbide-Drill-Rig-Bit-6-/171381122576?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e71c6610 That will deal with your rocks for you, can be made with NPT threads to adapt to standard galv/black pipe. You can also attach a trash...

I think you meant to post this in your other well digging thread... :D

Float is critical when you don't want to 'dig', just scrape. Float position will only dig in the lightest of stuff otherwise it will want to ride up unless you have the bucket very slightly down. Float is the FEL arms floating, not the bucket tilt, BTW. Float is a major feature. I have a...

I can't lay claim to the concept. My father taught it to me. There's a hole in the ground just for it to sit in, don't have to dig it ever again. I haven't built the implement 'shed' yet but I have ideas on it. I think I might be the only one with too many ideas for projects and not enough...

There have been other recommendations to lay off the HST pedal and bring it back since you are probably cavitating the hydraulic pump with trying to go wide open up a hill in high. I don't have an HST so I'm just passing on the concept.

My vote is the injector pump was left with diesel in it for 10 years which has turned to muck. You'll likely have to put some kind of solvent through it to get the piston(s) running again. Probably all stuck in the 'up' position. You can try Seafoam/other cleaners or taking it off and leaving...

Stored the Danuser using the old tried and true method, have it dig a hole and leave the PHD in it! Just disconnect and roll away. It stays upright and is easy to reconnect. You could build a small roll around 'shed' or tent to go over it if you wanted it 'indoors'.

Problem likely won't be lifting it out, but the torque on lightweight tubing that most PHD augers are made with. If you are at about 6" or less, you shouldn't have much of an issue. To be honest, I have a design to do just this but with a separate frame for the 'drill' and a PHD only acting as...

You could bypass all the safety switches and see if it does it still. Could be a wire worn against something that lets it short out, temperature, bumps, whatever make contact and 'stutter'.

You could always punch a hole in one of those 'field' rubber balls the kids kick around and make it look like a clown nose... :D

Okay, that isn't the crack type I was expecting. I don't know of anyone that would touch a jacket to jacket crack like that. Maybe someone here on the boards knows someone that would take it on, I don't. Personally, that's new block time in my book. The heating and cooling cycles alone would...

Wait, you have to run the tractor for a couple of hours or work it real hard to get the problem to happen? That seriously sounds like fuel flow. Air would be an issue at any time, hot or cold. Compression would also be an issue any time but usually WORSE for mal seating valves when cold over...

Just looking on ebay, there are a bunch of varieties of them but seem to be specific to make and model, nothing real 'generic'. It does look like you can make your own with pipe (like PVC or galvanized) and some mods to the PTO area. I'd probably make one out of PVC with some N50 magnets...

Put a good coat of spray on furniture polish down the surfaces of the left side of the tractor (after you've cleaned the tractor) and then you should just be able to spray off the carbon with a pressure washer, then reapply the furniture polish. Worked great on aircraft that I cleaned, trust...

You can fix cracked blocks. If it's not in a high stress area, a simple brazing job with silicone bronze will do (as long as it's done right, look up brazing cast iron). If it's in a stress area, you only have a couple of choices: Nickel rod welding or Stainless Steel Mig weld. Those are best...

It's not a crappy post, it's just a normal person with an issue they feel is odd. The only crappy post is one that should be posted and isn't because of fear of something or other. Keep up the posts!

As long as the engine itself is sound, they could be switched over to mechanically injected, mechanically driven fuel pumps and run just fine. They'd chew through more fuel and spit out more emissions, but they'd work. My D-17 has NO running electronics on it right now and would laugh at EMP...