D782 Help

[shires]

I recently got stuck working on an engine that came off a ZD21F mower. It's been out of the mower for about 6 months and the person that had it before it ended up in my truck did nothing to it but take off the head and rocker assembly. Now I'm wanting to put it back together and see if I can get it running again, but have no idea what to torque any of the head bolts too.
Does anyone know where I can find these values and order.
I'd like to not have to buy a $80 workshop manual.
This is for my local golf course that is low on funds and I'm just doing it to help them out.
The block has a crack in it so I'll try to put some K&W block sealer in it and see what happens. I don't think there is anything I can do to the block to fix the crack. Just hoping I can get them thru the summer.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks

 

[ShaunRH]

You can fix cracked blocks. If it's not in a high stress area, a simple brazing job with silicone bronze will do (as long as it's done right, look up brazing cast iron). If it's in a stress area, you only have a couple of choices: Nickel rod welding or Stainless Steel Mig weld. Those are best left to a pro to do and they will NOT guarantee it will hold. Cast Iron is notoriously finicky.

If it's REALLY in a stressless area you can even get away with JB Weld, but only as a sealer, it has no tensile strength.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would avoid any liquid in radiator seal, it will only cause you more problems.
If the block is cracked to the point where water is leaking out externally, I would suspect that it's also leaking internally and will end up in the oil also.
There are several ways to fix the block, more info is needed to determine where to go next!

 

[shires]

The people that gave the engine to work on said they had water in the oil.
The head has a small crack in the exterior around the heat sensor. It was already fixed when I got it. It's also not warped.
The block has a crack that goes almost all the way across the upper edge and it doesn't go to the exterior.
I'm hoping that the head gasket can seal this. If you think it would be best to have a shop weld and face it off I will do that.

There are actually two different cracks.
One goes from the right top water passage to the center bolt up top.
Another starts just below the center top bolt and goes just under the top left bolt hole.

There are no cracks in the cylinders themselves that I can see.

 

[ShaunRH]

Okay, that isn't the crack type I was expecting. I don't know of anyone that would touch a jacket to jacket crack like that. Maybe someone here on the boards knows someone that would take it on, I don't.

Personally, that's new block time in my book. The heating and cooling cycles alone would kill almost any repair I can think of.

I know that's not the news you were looking for but I seriously think you need a new block and you can recycle the parts off the old one for a lot of effort or just get a new engine and have a good warranty on it again.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes that's a toasted block!
That crack is not just on the surface, it probably extends all the way threw to the other side.
I know that some cracks can be repaired but that's not one I think can be done.
They would have to heat the entire area up to get material to flow all the way threw the block to seal it up and I'm not sure that it would even hold, just the force of the 2 head bolts being tightened will expand the crack.

The D782 is not a real common model and a quick search gave very little on possible replacements.

 

[shires]

Thanks for the replies.
I cleaned all the parts and just put everything back together with new gaskets.
I feel that I have nothing to loose trying some K&W Block Sealer.
I'm going to try it tonight and see what happens.
The people I'm doing this for don't have enough money to go out and get a new motor right now. I checked earlier last week and a new crate motor will cost just over $3400.
I still can't figure out how the water is getting in the oil based on were the crack is.
I plan to run it with the seal for 30 minutes and then drain out the water and oil. I'll let it sit for a day and then put all the fluids back in and see what happens.
If it's no good then we haven't lost much and they can come up with a plan on what to do next. I still can't believe the operator didn't fix the leaking radiator that started this mess in the first place. It had a bad leak and he's been just putting water in the radiator when it would get low.
Then we had a night it got down to 7 and all he did was put about half a gallon of antifreeze in the radiator. He didn't even run the mower to let it mix in the block. That one mistake is what's messing this nice mower up. He also did the same thing in a Ford 2810. Luckily the freeze plug came out in that block.
I'm just trying to help them out and get their stuff up and operational again.
I do live next to the golf course. My kids swim at the pool, but we don't play golf.
Thanks for all your help
I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Don't drain the water after you fill it and put sealer in it, just let it stay there.
yes drain the oil, several times and keep checking for water.

The reason it will get water in the oil is because the crack goes all the way threw to the bottom of the block, you may not be able to see it with the naked eye but the crack is there, and when the block heats up the crack gets bigger.

You should be able to find a block for it for way cheaper that $3400,
search around on EBay and the net someone is bound to have one for sale.

 

[shires]

Here's what I found out:
We started putting water in the new radiator while I was tightening up a few other things and all of a sudden water started coming out the breather hose on the valve cover.
I have never seen this before.
I'm just going to call this one gone.
I never put any oil back in it.
I ended up draining all the water out by pulling the oil plug.

Now we have found another engine on dieselenginetrader.com.
They have a D782 for $1595
They also say that the D722 can replace it at a cost of $1395.
My question is are there other engines that can replace this one that might be better or should we just go with the 782 that we know works fine.
Shipping is also $165 fedex pallet.

These engines are ready to install and run.
All I have to do is put on my exhaust and air filter.

 

[shires]

I just got done purchasing a used D782 with low hours for the ZD21.
It should ship out from Tennessee next week and make its way down to me.
I should be able to just move over a few small things and get the old mower back up and going.
I'll also want to change out all the hydraulic fluids and grease everything before we put it back in service.
The engine comes with a 30 day guarantee so I'll make sure it's on the move fast and cutting again.

Thanks for all your help

 

[ShaunRH]

On the plus side, you have lots of used spare parts for the new engine...