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Foamed oil has a 'milky' appearance. The bubbles are small and in suspension of the oil. Larger top bubbles aren't unusual after a system has been running a while and they pop easily so that sounds like what you are experiencing. If the tractor is operating normally, I'd ignore it.

Test each switch, this could be part of the issue with starts. Shorting the solenoid is only demonstrating that you have a working solenoid! Get the schematic for the unit and test all switches and wires from point to point. This should find any opens or shorts that may be causing you...

Oil level should be halfway up the glass, not to the top (at least according to my L3200's manual). If it gets too full, you can end up with the oil making contact with items that just churn in air. If that happens the oil cannot hold even pressures and the air literally floods the system...

I'd replace the fuel cap and check for proper fit to the tank. Dents or debris on the rim can cause gaps that wick the moisture into the tank.

It shouldn't be the thermostat unless it's not opening 'fully' which might cause the issue and still need replacement. You can test the T-stat you have with a simple stovetop hot water test. However, more likely the radiator is just not getting enough air through it or the paths are clogged...

I have an L3200 as well and reading this site has me convinced to keep the critter very clean, tidy and well lubed. I'm so used to old iron with so much slop that everything moves all over the place and rarely freezes up. I think I have to take care of the new one so it doesn't get that way! :D

If you dropped that much voltage, I'd say your battery is internally shorted. Try disconnecting the positive and THEN jump start the tractor. Jumping it with the shorted battery in the line will just dump all the voltage to the short. Get a load tester from Harbor Freight for about $20...

Sounds like air in the system. Did something get over/under filled?

Well, if it fires over after suspecting air in the lines, that's usually because a few cylinders would've fired if going fast enough, the air would eventually be overcome by the increased pressure coming from the pump running 'at speed'. Had an older tractor do this same thing. I only had to...

Checking for 'bad' starter is pretty simple, just jumper the solenoid with a test wire and if the starter spins nicely (not dragging) the starter is likely fine. The solenoid is just a beefy relay, so to check it, just put an ohm meter across the terminals and put power to the power lead. If...

If there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the engine (cracked block, bent/broken crank/journals, etc.) then you got a real steal. The engine can always be rebuilt. The HST can usually be repaired/fixed. You might have about $2K in front of you for investment, but it's over time so it...

I don't know the 'hub' on an L175 but normally adapting one steering wheel to another is fairly easy to do with a drill press. You may have to make some kind of intermediate adapter plate but I've seen aftermarket hot rod steering wheels on lawn tractors so about anything is possible...

Excellent perseverance and attitude throughout. I hate engaging attorney's as well since their product, by definition, is an inefficient waste of time an money. People with honor and ethics should always be able to reach a deal that is a win for everyone. In this case, Kubota screwed up, it's...

I'll chime in on and add to the welcome, and the nice 'bota. As for the ROPS, I only fold mine when it goes into it's storage container. You should run with it fully deployed, never down.

You could do a 'reverse leach field' system too. Dig the trench, line the bottom with pea gravel, put in leach field 'coffin tops' and drop your vertical into a hole in the coffin top or even a 'sump pump' down in the bottom, DC solar pumps work in this condition. Again, all this would be...

It really depends on what his inflow is before he'd need to consider going horizontal. Slitted PVC that deep might be kind of unreliable and collapse in on itself. There are well products made for that function that would be more effective but then again, if it's all on the cheap, I'd go nuts...

You can try a water hose and a largish trash pump, 2" or better to lift out the water. I'd say shop vac but you're already into the ground water and unless it's a slow fill, it will never win against the water! (especially as you go deeper!) That bit I linked can take a 2" drill line. If you...

Well, I guess it pays to soak in every detail.. DOH! Nevermind!

On the plus side, you have lots of used spare parts for the new engine... :D

Well now, hold yer horses... If your radiator is clean on the outside and hasn't been cleaned on the inside you can get stoppage creating a heat up problem. I hear a relatively cheap way to take out any gook inside is to flush with a good radiator flush, and then rinse out and fill with white...