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Nice! How was the "S" hose, visible cracks or deterioration?

The illustrated parts list at https://www.kubotausa.com/parts or https://www.messicks.com/vendor/kubota may be of some assistince, it shows the old and new layout

Well actually your response was in direct relation to the oil cooler, because you even quoted it.

As previously noted, I'm prepared to apologize and eat humble pie if I'm wrong, not like some, so if this is incorrect, I'll gladly do it again.

You can loosen your fuel cap and tape it in place loose, and give it a run to see if your tank is venting.

My thoughts are with head gasket, cracked head or worse, I just have to throw a bit at NIW as he's pretty keen on hammering me if my posts are correct or not! You could be lucky with a gasket, blown to water and oil gallery, I really hope that's what it is, but you're not going to know without...

While it fits the bill, if you use 80/90 gear oil for anything else, use that, one less different oil to stock. YMMV

MX5000, you could bypass the water lines with a joiner for a start, it doesn't need a cooler while you are not working it hard. It's possible you could remove altogether and get a threaded nipple to just put the filter back on, I expect it's just an add on on that engine. You can also get a...

North Idaho Wolfman, Sorry, but that statement isn't true! As far as Messicks/Kubota parts layout is concerned, the MX5000 has a water cooled oil cooler, and if there is corrosion or other problem with it, I would expect oil and water could mix together easily. I'd certainly be looking at it...

Perhaps a boundary mistake from cut/paste/mods from one drawing to another. Like their electrical schematics, they aren't perfect, I have found other Kubota schematics with check valves placed the wrong way around. Hopefully all a wasted exercise and D100jj4 finds a crook clutch!

Not at the boundary, go up a little on the line to the charge pump.

Does it say Check oil level. If needed, add AGMA 5EP extreme pressure oil, SAE 80W90 gear oil or equivalent. I very much doubt a snow blower gearbox requires any "special" oil. I expect any 80/90, or whatever you have in the shed will do. AGMA 5EP is an ISO 220 weight oil, similar to a 90 gear...

Pull the cover plate off and manually push the rack wide open and see what you get. And BTW, without looking, I can't recall if the pic I linked is the idle set screw or max rpm set screw, have a look in your manual to check.

Going back to post 19, have you checked/set/adjusted, did you get an increase if you did?

Does the engine respond to load by adding more fuel?

When replacing the governor did you line up all three timing marks together at the same time?

Each to their own, but for me, fuel related black smoke is over fueling, white is timing or starvation. www.berrimadiesel.com/diesel-archives/smoke-signals www.bellperformance.com/blog/bid/115989/diesel-engine-problems-black-smoke-explained

Black smoke is over fueling. Are you certain your timing is correct?

Leave the radiator cap off, start engine, watch fluid for bubbles, possible cracked head. You can buy testers as well to check the gas in the radiator for the presence of combustion gas, others on the forum will know where to get in the US.

I know that symbol, I'm wondering what is in the line, can't tell from the photocopy, looks like a throttle valve or something else? Great. Well really, it would have been nice for you if it was plugged! As previously noted, hopefully the clutch slips like crazy!