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Just stay away from places that don't sell much fuel. The more the store sells the better the fuel is going to be in most cases.

Probably every 300-400 hrs is rated interval. If it was mine only being used that little I'd look at the color of the fluid. If it has any moisture it'll be milky looking and should be changed. If it's clean I'd run it.

Doesn't matter if you're using cheap junk from Wally world or the best synthetic oil on the market it needs to be changed once a year no matter how little it's used. When you get right down to it sitting is harder on one than daily used equipment.

Not all 4wd tractors / equipment are the same regarding ratio. On my L3000 the front spins just a little faster than the rear. on soft ground you don't feel it but on hard ground it pulls the steering just a little. On my M9000 you can't tell if it's in 4wd or not. Even on asphalt it's just as...

That's one thing I do like about the Deere's that I run for my buddies in the summer getting up hay. When you step on the brake pedal it automatically puts them in 4wd. You never slide while stopping.

I'd be changing the hyd fluid and filters if it was mine. It would drive me nuts not knowing if someone had put that garbage oil from TSC or parts store oil in it.

I've never had one complain but I warn them ahead of time if I know it has sealant in it.

That's a fact. I had a trooper pull me over in my F350 and try to tell me I had to have CDL's to drive it and threatened me with a commercial ticket. I was polite but argued the fact that it didn't require CDL's and on top of that it was a farm vehicle on farm business. He was completely wrong...

I just wash it like normal with car wash soap. Normally I'll take a rag to wipe over any big spot first but it always seem to just wash off pretty easy.

Keep the (shaft at housing) lubed with a good lubricant, not WD40. Hard to say about the noise. Do you have any idea what was used when it was serviced or if it even has been serviced?

Put slime in it and even if the plug comes out it will seal the hole up.

I'd say it may surprise you. I think it'll handle it just fine. I pull a 10' trail type IH disc with my L3000. I can have it set in the most aggressive setting but in 4wd only. I know it's a bit much but it was already on the farm so I'll use it.

Original battery in my L3000 lasted 11 years. Current is 8 years old and doing fine.

Take it to a hyd shop. Probably get it done for half of what the seal kit cost and it you take it apart yourself it'll be even cheaper.

RCW, it's a proud moment to see what we taught them being put to good use as they grow up. My son is 22 and less than a month away from his own son being born. Always been a good kid and I hope I've kept him pointed in the right direction. Seem to be doing fine to this point but he has no idea...

I washed it out to remove all the fuel. The turned the wire speed all the way down and blew argon in the tank until all the diesel smell was gone. After that just crossed my fingers and hoped for the best. Filling with water may have been a good choice but I didn't think of that. Either way it...

Sounds like being married. Get used to things you don't like and ignore the whining.

I had the no shut off happen to my M9000. It was a small, I mean really small build up of carbon or something in the plug for the shut-off. Cleaned it good and it's worked fine ever since. I'd suggest hooking some gauges to the a/c so you'll have some numbers to work with. That's a hard system...

Interesting question and my opinion I'd be cautious with it. I've heard of people adding to much and burning pistons. I have no personal experience with that kind of failure. I use this year round and have had very good luck. One product does everything in every season...

Well finally had the time to repair my leaking fuel tank on my M9000. Been putting it off all hay season. Never could figure out why it was leaking because I hadn't hit anything. After grinding off the factory weld from around the drain plug I don't see how it made it this long. It was full of...