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I dont think it will be THAT easy in this case because the base end attachment brackets are narrower than the actual cylinder OD, so not only does it need a crosstube, it also needs that crosstube to be far enough ‘off’ the cylinder housing that you can narrow it to fit in the stock brackets. If...

I have to assume what you mean is that any r14 for a certain rim width is going to be so much smaller diameter than an r1 for that rim width that they can’t be considered ‘interchangeable’ on a given application. But in general im guessing you can get r14s to fit anything from a 5” wide rim to...

Bummer that the cylinders were destroyed. FYI the part being referred to is the ‘gland’. I cant see the diagram but the other descriptions make it clear. On my b8200 w/bf300 i had no real trouble getting the glands to move in a bit to remove the retaining ring. You do need to tap them usually...

Looks like the same swing mechanism design as the backhoe on my b8200. Mine is not leaking but i have some ‘rubber bumpers’ to install on it. From looking at it i believe you just need to unbolt either the cylinder base end or the outrigger arm itself to uncover a large bolt between the two...

Well, the side to side issue is why if i had a choice i would prefer a different style of stabilizer vs what’s on yours. I think mounting the tractor end that far outboard might simplify some things but i’d rather have more side to side adjustability and slightly more finicky stabilizers...

8.3-24 will fit your rims and should be almost exactly same diameter. Diameter does not really need to be that precise unless it's also a 4wd model. Most 8.3-24 tires are in an 'ag' / R1 pattern. There is technically a lot of variation in tread between different R1s because of the shape and...

The only thing that's become hard to find from the l175 days to today is some of the tread patterns of turf tires they used back then. As far as sizes go i think pretty much everything is still available. What is the tire size you are having trouble finding?

So am i wrong in thinking a lot of b26s are probably ordered barebones because they often live out the first part of their lives in rental fleets? I dont think most rental places would want their customers trying to switch out the backhoe for 3pt, or coming back with bent backhoe thumb cylinder...

If this is the OP’s first tractor, i think it’s just a bad combination of inadequate technique, and lack of having enough machine weight/power to mask the lack of technique. There’s a whole bunch of people who buy bigger tractors and ‘power’ their way through larger tasks without ever having...

If the click is coming from the starter solenoid itself, your problem is likely pretty simple. Are you able to have someone put their hand or some kind of improvised stethoscope on the starter solenoid while someone else turns the key to acertain whether it’s the source of the click?

Mine is actually a thick ring on the loader stick thats held up with a hairpin through the loader stick. If you remove the hairpin the ring falls down into the ‘gate’ and wont let the stick move in any direction. I have never once touched it. 😂

Well when something has the appearance of an ‘afterthought’ you cant beat yourself up too much for not immediately grasping its brilliance..😒😂 If it were a better thought out part it probably wouldnt have been damaged and then its purpose would have been obvious. 🤷‍♂️

If the plate didnt have the notch in it, would it let the stick be in neutral position or force it to ‘raise’ position? Im wondering if the groove was always there or not.

Fans do most of their work at the outer edges of the blades because that is where it’s moving the fastest. A substantial part of the outer portion of your fan blades is obstructed by the shroud being bent over it. Try fixing that and see what happens.

Is everyone understanding that the notched plate slides side to side?

Can’t find a picture of that online (at least in 10 seconds i couldnt). My old kubotas have adjustable steering stops already on them. Its just a bolt with a pre-rounded head on the steering knuckle that you can screw out longer so t will impact something on the axle and stop the wheel turning...

Yeah, the set screw just ‘prevents’ (nice theory lol) the key itself from migrating forward or back in the groove. They can walk themselves all the way out the front or back and fall out, otherwise. Or worse, start bending and shearing metal on the shaft or yoke when there’s not enough key still...

As long as all 3 hooks are at least ‘started’ you should pretty much ALWAYS be able to just lift the implement with the 3pt until it ‘self levels’ into the QH. . Definitely verify the latches are engaged before setting off with the implement. The only times that wouldn’t work: 1. bent quick...

is the other loader hardware SAE like those bolts? My Kubota BF 300 does have some kind of weird lockout thing on it which I ignore but I’m not 100% convinced that piece is factory on yours. Given the ‘adjustable stops’ and sliding nature of the ‘gate’ it may be there to keep you from...

Yup, weirdly huge cylinders. But only 500-750psi operating pressure. If you hooked the 3pt system which i believe is relief around 1700psi to it, you could probably bend something pretty easily.