BX2680 - Did I go too small?

Boatman

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Kubota L2800, Kubota BX1870
Nov 26, 2016
168
54
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Mill Spring, NC, US
I'm wondering if the additional weight would be a benefit. I'm also trying to clear brush with this and find it difficult and tedious to remove it. It doesn't like uprooting things, just bends them over or breaks them and leaves annoying little stubs.
I have both size machines... BX1870 and L2800. What you pictured for brush would just laugh at my BX. In order to pull that out I'd have to use the L and even then it would be a tough job. I cut them about 18". then wrap a chain around them about 12" up. Push/pull them back and forth a couple times with the loader and then the L will usually rip them out.
 

mcmxi

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***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
Feb 9, 2021
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NW Montana
The BX sets the hook in the junkie…that’s what it is it’s a gateway drug…that’s what it is. I had a BX before my current B and MX. Welcome to my world. 🥃
:LOL: Isn't that the truth. I went BX25D > MX6000 (open station, then cab) > M6060 and even think that the MX is on the small side for what I want/need.
 
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NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
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Weight is sometimes undervalued by new tractor users who, at times, focus on HP. As an extreme example I have a 25hp zero turn, and a 9N Ford that’s slightly less. Pulling a mowing deck, they’re not incredibly dissimilar in power. For PTO type work (chipper, generator, etc.) to a large degree HP is HP and weight is of little relevance. Pulling an implement, uprooting a small tree with a chain, pulling a trailer… any drawbar type pulling: the 9N is vastly superior to the zero turn. Of course the 9N has loaded R1’s massively larger than the zero turn’s little turfs. The 9N weighs 3 to 4 times what the zero turn weighs (I don’t know the exact weight of the zero turn but it ain’t much).

While the BX v L in similar HP range isn’t quite that much of a difference, when it comes to anything involving pushing, pulling, or lifting weight is incredibly important.

When it comes to not damaging a lawn, trails, etc. with a heavy machine shod with aggressive tires, the lighter machine is preferable.

For pushing and pulling, tires are also very important. R1’s clearly are the winners there. But in my case, they tear up not only our lawns, but also our trails. The much heavier L4701 with 4WD and loaded R4’s causes much less damage to our trails than the 9N with its 2WD and R1’s, but the L is still a big fat pig on the lawns just due to weight. The R4’s are a good compromise for heavy landscaping/loader type use. Less than ideal for pulling implements such as discs and plows in fluffy or muddy fields.

Unless you have one, and only one, job for the machine, it’s a balancing act between weight, tire choice, and HP to achieve adequate performance for all tasks. Worst case, you end up with a “big” tractor for heavy work and a small tractor for a lighter touch. Which is why I’m likely to add a BX to our stable in the next year or so to provide an adequate tool for lawn type maintenance and landscaping, yet have no plans to get rid of the L for the heavier chores on our 70, mostly wooded, acres.

I think for most of us here, whatever we have is a bit of a compromise that isn’t ideal for every job we have for it, but is adequate for every job we have for it.
 
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PoTreeBoy

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L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
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Pulling trees over is tough. If you don't cut it first, you're pulling the top over onto yourself and the tractor. If you do cut it, leave a tall stump so you have more leverage. Depending on the tree and soil, it may break off. I started wrapping a chain around them and pulling them up, using my fork frame. By rocking the tractor back and forth I've pulled pines up to 6", but you have to be careful to keep all four wheels on the ground. I just got a Brush Grubber HD to try to speed the chain wrapping step. It didn't work well for pulling out whole trees because the pivot point acts like a fulcrum and pries the teeth off when you pull the chain. It may work better if I cut the tops of the trees off first so it has a straight pull. And it may work ok if you're pulling stumps over and on crooked brush.
Update on the Brush Grubber: not good. I cut off the tops of a few saplings, pine and gum.

First, I tried to pull them straight up, since prior experience has shown breaking them off at ground level is a possibility when pulling horizontally. The teeth just cut grooves in them and slid off the top. Maybe 1 out of 5, mostly small ones, pulled out ok.

Then I tried pulling them over, as shown in most of their pictures. That requires pretty exact placement and, once you've started pulling them over, it slides off the end.

So I'm back to wrapping the trusty chain.
 
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rc51stierhoff

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B2650, MX6000, Ford 8N, (BX sold)
Sep 13, 2021
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:LOL: Isn't that the truth. I went BX25D > MX6000 (open station, then cab) > M6060 and even think that the MX is on the small side for what I want/need.
I am not too far behind you…although I don’t see myself getting another tractor soon unless I would do an about face and want a cab…I think eventually I’ll end up with a track loader.
 

NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,824
4,301
113
Central Piedmont, NC
Update on the Brush Grubber: not good. I cut off the tops of a few saplings, pine and gum.

First, I tried to pull them straight up, since prior experience has shown breaking them off at ground level is a possibility when pulling horizontally. The teeth just cut grooves in them and slid off the top. Maybe 1 out of 5, mostly small ones, pulled out ok.

Then I tried pulling them over, as shown in most of their pictures. That requires pretty exact placement and, once you've started pulling them over, it slides off the end.

So I'm back to wrapping the trusty chain.
Thank you. I’ve thought several times about picking up one of those. After that, I’ll be skipping it.
 

fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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Eastham, Ma
I am not too far behind you…although I don’t see myself getting another tractor soon unless I would do an about face and want a cab…I think eventually I’ll end up with a track loader.
A track loader is a wonderful thing!
Make sure you don't get one that is too small.
Then....make sure you don't buy one that is very cheap, but is all worn out!
 
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Vigo

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B6100, B8200
Jan 9, 2022
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San Antonio Texas
If this is the OP’s first tractor, i think it’s just a bad combination of inadequate technique, and lack of having enough machine weight/power to mask the lack of technique.

There’s a whole bunch of people who buy bigger tractors and ‘power’ their way through larger tasks without ever having actually maxed out their prior machine. Buying is easier than learning, especially if time and patience are more limited than funds. I’m not saying things wouldn’t go better with a larger tractor, but where that lands on the list of things you’re going to try is up to you, i just wouldn’t recommend it be the FIRST thing.

Honestly, i would start ‘chunking’ this problem by picking one thing you’re having trouble doing, describing your process, letting the forum offer some suggestions, and seeing how that goes. If you try to get advice on loader use, box blade use, rotary cutter use, and hydraulics that ‘seem weak’ all at the same time, you’re not going to get productive input except once every 10 posts if youre lucky.

So pick a thing and try us. It’ll be a little while of that legwork before i personally would say to myself ‘he’s demonstrated as far as the internet allows, to be operating right up to the limits of the machine and is just not happy there, therefore he needs a bigger tractor’. My .02
 
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