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Weight on the back (box blade is highly recommended), and a toothbar on the bucket will make your L3010 twice as effective for digging and moving material. You won't have to work it as hard either, although grubbing out stumps with the loader is tough work since the loader bucket isn't the best...

Have been using them often for 14 years on one Kubota (Grand L) and 11 years on the other (BX). Never a problem, never even thought they weren't up to the job. At most, they only hold up a few hundred pounds in the case of the Grand L loader; on the BX, you could probably hold up the weight...

Here's the parts diagram for the BX2230 PTO engagement lever. There are a couple of notches in the slot on the fender - one for the "engage" and one for "disengage" position. If the lever physically won't slide far enough to catch the "disengage" notch, either the linkage is bent, fouled with...

Larger cylinders will operate slower also. Another thing, the resale value of the tractor will take a hit if key components of the tractor, such as the loader, have been patch-repaired with non-OEM parts. You might lose more resale value than what you're going to save on the repair. I'd...

The gator blades may be your next option, but there may only be so far you can go to achieve a perfect lawn cut. There are probably a lot of owners like me that mow fairly rough, less than perfectly-groomed open areas with these tractors, so the standard deck is built to mow heavy growth over...

Just to clarify, you're saying the blades are cutting all the grass but the clippings are not all mulched or dispersed, right? Some of the obvious things you might change: A) Mowing more often so the grass isn't so tall. B) Mow at a higher deck height. C) Make sure you're mowing at full rpm...

What he said. You could get a pto-driven hydraulic pump, like the ones used on some backhoe attachments, but a new one would cost more than just getting a used rotary cutter. And you'd still have to monkey around with that Case cutter to make it work behind your Kubbie.

Nice work fixing up that old gal! I can see you're enjoying your new shop. Concerning the hydraulics, all of the recent generations of Kubota tractors have open-centered hydraulics that circulate unused hydraulic fluid back to the reservoir and are thus self-purging. I don't have any...

You'll get more done and put less stress on the tractor's front end if you get something heavy mounted out back on the 3 point hitch. When you are using the loader to pry something out of the ground, the front axle becomes the fulcrum for the prying forces... weight in back helps.

If you go with that center hook, be sure to reinforce the top of the bucket, as that curled top lip can bend in the center under enough load. The hooks on the ends are stronger but you have to rig a chain between the hooks to make a single point lift. Rkidd's photo shows a nice setup.

Your snow handling requirements should drive your decision, but it's complicated because there are a bunch of different ways you can set up a tractor to move snow. Since you are in snow country, I'd expect you'll see times when a snowblower is needed, even if you don't spring for it...

Cranky, I've gotta apologize for not giving you a more useful answer in that other thread. I've seen so many discussions of the light-duty transmissions in lawn tractors, I thought that was what you were asking about. Looking at the Kubota online parts listings for the GR2120 and the GR2120-2...

Kubota generally designs and builds its own products, including major internal components like engines and transmissions. Obviously not the tires, hoses, light bulbs, etc., but the GR2120 is pretty much all Kubota, including the HST.

Are you sure it's supposed to start? Maybe you're supposed to let it sit there where you can just look at it. In the aviation world, such things are called hangar queens. Barn queens?

Couldn't really disagree... that's probably a more precise description than mine. However BX's are renowned for needing to have the engine revved into the high end of their rpm range to generate sufficient flow and pressure to operate the hydraulic systems (3 point, FEL, HST), with any...

The engine weighs 170 lbs dry, probably 200 as it sits in a BX. You need something to lift and hold it securely in place whilst your delicate pinkies are working on the old/new fan exchange. That would be a really bad time for something to slip!

The temperatures you mentioned are pretty normal for a hydrostat setup, as noted. It's only when temperatures climb above something like 200 deg that there is cause for concern. I'll occasionally check the loader hose connectors on mine. If they're too hot to touch, it's time to slow down...

Should be open center.

Sorry to hear of your busted fan problem. I've not had to do that on my BX so far (850 hrs), but understand it's a nasty job replacing a $20 part. On the later BX models such as you own, you have to loosen the engine mounts and move the engine forward enough to open up the driveshaft so the...

Did a boot replacement on my Grand L not long after it was new, after damaging it under similar circumstances. That first season included lots of learning on my part and the regular mowing of my property quickly cleared it of obstructions that could cause further damage. As a result, there...