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The closer to centered with the wheels to hub bearings, the least amount of stress on bearings. Wide wheel stance is more for matching rear wheel track. The load carrying capacity of the front end never changes.

Generally i troubleshoot without wiring diagrams, as the primary curcuits are all the same on everything-power and grounds. Theory remains the same across the board. I use a variety of circuit testing equipment and its all hands on. So test light is the first tool to go for, testing for power...

Ahhh the binford 6100 rock picker. Eats rocks for breakfast. All kidding aside,two choices of really tough attatchments.

I stand corrected. By Wolfman.again. A person would think it would be a generic thermal flasher.no. I dont have the luxury of accessing service manuals most times. Thats why ott has people like wolfman.to correct us wayward ones.

A cross brace, like a collar tie, half way down crossways joining the two together. Can do it with new replacement pieces. Big gain for little work.

Never a good noise to hear, longer it runs like that, the more expensive it gets.have no fear going in there, manual will give you the knowledge you need.

I agree with drilling/tapping for a zerk. Too deep isnt necessary,whole idea is getting grease in there.

Its just the weak point on that tool, it should be at least as robust as the bucket.

Forgot to mention, flasher is usually 1" round,1-1/2" long with two terminals on it. It wont cycle unless there is a load on it. Like two bulbs.

That damage is from a downward force, rolling bucket down.

All you need is a good test light. From back of switch, can check power in and out, then move onto flasher and down the line. Didnt mention replacing bulbs, start there and check grounds.

If there are wires connected directly to solenoid, then a connector, cut off both ends and either hard wire or splice in a generic type connector. Hard wiring / solder and heat shrink would be the most failure proof, but if the solenoid ever needs to be replaced it will be a chore.

The bottom would need an additional piece added, if its welded, will most likely tear out the pockets. The forces exerted are quite substantial, weight of front end with a little inertia and its a recipe for failure. Doubling what is there , if i was repairing would be 3/8 material used to beef...

Yup, i had same issue,found the curly vent pipe, was plugged.leaf cutter bees filled pipe. Hasnt leaked since.

It just keeps getting better and better. I somehow lost my floor over the last few weeks. Time for a fall cleaning. Seein yours makes me want to straighten mine up.

Connection at fuel filter line leaking. Fuel wont run out of an injector line if engine isnt running.

Looks like not only cold welds, but not enough-should have been a pass on the underside behind the latch window. Looks like the mount could have been a heavier material. Nice unit, but looks like a generic QA plate was used.

Its a coin toss,pulling pistons will tell you how much further you need to go. If a set of cookies (snowmobile jargon for guys that like to tune and kaboom)is an acceptable price on your part then go for it. My tractor is in decent shape, i would do it if i was in your situation. Happy wrenching.

Antifreeze used in diesel engines has an anti- foaming agent, i prefer a universal type coolant- compatible with all coolants standard and long life. Celcuis is the brand i prefer, only need one kind on the shelf. 50/50 mix is the norm for most coolant. Distilled or de-mineralized is preferred.

I also enjoy working with low voltage electrical systems. As pointed out, the battery ground is a common overlooked problem. Remove, inspect and clean. It seems odd it stopped and is dead as you describe. Unless battery outright failed from an internal short - over 12 volts tells me no short...