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The fuse for the tail lights also is the fuse for the electric fuel pump. When the dealer had my BX22 fuel tank out they pinched a tail light wire and that fuse blew the first time I used the lights. My tractor still ran without the pump, but yours may not if you have air in the lines. You...

His issue isn't a bad start solenoid. It is voltage drop through the safety switches.

You can search this site or Google it for instructions if you get stumped. Think of this as a slave relay. The key switch supplies power to the slave relay and the slave supplies the voltage to the starter relay.

There is a John Deere part number for a kit but you can use just a common relay. I used one I had laying from some other project. I'd just run to the part store and get one. The one I used is rated at 40 amps. Pretty easy mod if you understand relays. You'll need a little wire and common terminals.

You need to have the key in the "start" position when you test for voltage. If you do have no voltage at the starter solenoid with the key in the "start" position you're going to have to find where your loosing it. Probably at a safety switch.

I'll ask again. Since replacing the "combination box" will the switch turn the engine off? I believe you are fighting the same battle I did several years ago on my ZD. I had starting issues that I could overcome by wiggling steer levers, park brake, mower clutch handle. Always managed to get it...

Since replacing the "box", will the key shut it off? I put the "low voltage relay" mod on my ZD due to too much voltage drop through the safety switches to activate the starter solenoid. If the key still won't shut it off that mod won't help that issue.

Were you using the PTO at the time? I'm guessing probably not the second time. Is this a cab tractor or open station? My 7060 owners manual shows a position 4 fuse "Alternator, PTO, Engine" but it is a 10 amp. My tractor is a cab unit. So I see the ROPS version has a 5 amp fuse position 10 that...

My M7060 has the E-PTO that comes with the 12 speed transmission. I use it on the snowblower and the 12' batwing and if starts bogging down at all I just downshift, but that seldom happens.

Snap ring 140 and possibly 150 too.

A stickey treadle pedal might be the cause of the coasting. I don't believe I could stall my BX22 doing that test even new, though I've never tried it.

Hydraulic shop would be the best bet. Hercules and Baum Hydraulics are two sources I have used that would likely have them but you will have to determine sizes and style. Where did you find the seal kit for sale? All I've seen is the complete cylinder. Is the cylinder a cut apart like I was...

I'm pretty sure that is repairable only by cutting the weld on the cylinder. Sold as a complete cylinder only. If you're ambitious enough to try that a hydraulics shop can likely get you what you need.

I don't know how severe your speed problem is but have you tried adjusting per the owners manual procedure? i bought by ZD21 used with about 1200 hrs and before I made the deal for it the dealer adjusted the speed so it would travel a straight line.

Ok I can see how that would work. As I recall it was getting the end up was the hard part, then the screwdriver worked it out of the groove pretty easily.

Look at the taper on the left. How is it going to spread against that? I've never used that tool, but I can't see it getting any purchase against that side of the ring.

I don't see those pliers working on this style ring. This is a screen shot from South Main Auto Repair's YouTube channel. This was on his BX22 steering cylinder.

Those are a pain to get out. I used a pick and small screwdriver to get it off when I rebuilt my BX22 cylinder.

Are these Kubota filters that are failing? Are they failing at start up (cold oil) or after running awhile? What oil are you using? What are you doing when it fails?

You'll want about the smallest GPM valve offered too.