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Thats kind of surprising that the rod would rust in the bore. I'd of thought that it should have had a good oil film on it. Hopefully you can get it freed up without too much trouble. I suppose NC humidity probably had something to do with it. Probably wouldn't happen here in the desert of WY.

Looks like no one has had this issue before. I haven't either, but if the lever won't move I'd be chasing the linkage and see why. May have take it apart to free it up. The clutch is hydraulic so all the linkage will be doing is working a hydraulic valve.

That turned out to be quick and easy. Glad to have helped.

Had to run out and take a look at mine. There is a "bell crank" that attaches to the shaft that runs into the motor case that works the swash plate. It has a roll pin that attaches it to the shaft. Might that be sheared? That would be something you couldn't see wrong with out driving the pin...

While there is an issue with drive motor failures, it sounds more like a linkage issue to me. Pop the seat up and move the lever and watch the linkage. Make sure it is all intact. Compare it to the working side. FatJay over on the TBN site documented his repair of the drive system on a ZD21 a...

+ 100000 That is a problem. Fix it before it is a bigger problem.

This is where a voltage drop test is useful. You need to be able to put a load on the wire or connection. A light bulb as a test light can find that problem also providing the bulb has appropriate wattage.

I would change fuel and air filters and make sure your battery is charged. Battery needs to turn the engine over fast. Black smoke is usually a lack of air but have also seen it be the fuel filter which was surprising. A fully charged battery is 12.6 or 12.7 volts after being off the charger...

I looked in the WSM of my M7060 and depending on position, they call for .004 to .010" or .008 to .010". In the trouble shooting for clunk it also indicates excessive backlash as a cause. That gear certainly looks like its pattern has changed and possibly has too much backlash. I would...

Top left. There is a chance that the relief valve is set higher than your pump is rated for. You could back it off and then by use of a pressure gauge and dead heading a cylinder you could set it back up to the recommended pressure for your tractor.

The original battery fit in that tray and had a cover. The negative battery terminal is where your picture shows the positive terminal of a wider and shorter battery. The negative cable grounds to the frame right behind the battery tray. The positive crosses under the engine and goes direct to...

That is true. I had to replace mine. I think you have solved the mystery of his BX.

So that is a timer in his picture. So which fuel stop is on this BX. The top picture is like the one on my ZD that has the stop timer. The bottom one is what my BX22 has. My ZD timer has about a dozen wires to it and looks nothing like his picture. I suppose the ZD is different due to the many...

You lost me. Sounds like you are describing the start system on my Kubota ZD21. This is not what a BX2200 should have. I looked up the Messick parts for a BX2200D and it shows what my BX22 has. No safety timer relay box. The only 2 "boxes" you should have under the dash are the IC regulator and...

Henro's description of operation is correct. I have a BX22 which is the same tractor except in TLB version. There is also a 20 amp fuse that feeds the solenoid but if it starts and runs, that fuse is good. Sounds to me like the solenoid plunger is stuck in the on position or something mechanical...

If your OK with a hydraulic shuttle I'd go with a M7060. More tractor for less money, and better fuel economy.

Here's what I've got for my BX22. No longer needed as I now have a cabbed tractor and bigger blower. I found a slightly used B2650 blower. Made the mount for the front and PTO components to drive it and it uses the loader joystick to run the hydraulic lift and chute rotation. The only...