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This is why I use a snowblower. With open prairie and Wyoming wind we are always battling drifts. You push up windrows and it just fills it back in. The cutters are 5' tall for reference. This was our April storm this spring.

Your alternator will likely charge just fine, but with the diodes being toasted the alternator will discharge the battery when not running. If you have a starter/alternator repair shop they can replace the diodes.

I would agree that reverse polarity doesn't explain the blown fuse but I do believe the red cable is likely the ground cable, and shame on whoever did that. The OP will have to let us know what he finds. I do think he needs to see where the red cable goes. I'm betting the frame.

He says the black cable is going to the starter so it is not hooked up correctly in the picture. Colors apparently weren't important to whoever replaced the cables in the past.

Alternator diodes probably wouldn't like reverse polarity.

"Should" be, but those cables don't look original and who knows what might have been done.

Are you sure you have the cables correct? The black cable you have on the negative post looks to run into a loom which seems odd for a ground cable. I'd make sure your positive cable is running to the starter.

Looks like he has moved on. Not seen since Nov. 6th.

I would think not. Engine ECU is right above and to the rear of the air filter housing. The Tractor ECU is under the right side interior panel approximately below the PTO switch, so a fair amount of wire loom to look at. Removing that panel and the floor panel should allow you look at the wiring...

The first thing I would try is loosening the fuel cap. If that helps your vent hole in the cap is plugged. The second would be to make sure the mower deck turns freely. Check the oil in the gearbox. The gearbox or spindle bearings may be failing.

I agree. NG per the service manual: "Engine trouble, etc. CAN Communication ERROR between Engine ECU and Tractor ECU"

Here is my 2 cents. The stop solenoid probably gets its ground from the engine mounting, so if it's not mounted you need to provide the ground to it. I would pull the valve cover off and check that the valve train is operating as expected. That is quick and easy. If it doesn't try to fire with...

And you would be absolutely wrong. I've seen it in electric motors and the schools had boxes of failed bearings showing different failure modes and how to identify them. Over greasing was one of them. Rolling elements skating instead of rolling damages both the rolling elements and the races and...

Was any failure analysis done on the bearings at the "most powerful cheese plant"? We have had Timken come in to analyze failures and make recommendations. In my career as a machinist and now maintenance/millwright I have attended both Timken and SKF "Bearing Maintenance Training" schools over...

Highly likely over greasing is causing your failures. Factory fill on a typical ball bearing is 30%, not because they're trying to save money on grease, but because more than that creates internal friction from churning the grease and causes the rolling elements to skate instead of turn. The...

There was a thread (probably over at TBN) on that mod. As I recall all you had to do is enlarge the hole the brake lock passes through. I did the mod and have not had the floor plate off since. I pull the deck out from under a couple of times a year anyway and then you have access to everything.

And the value of your time. The "wings" are wider on the revised part so they had more to weld the square tube to. Obviously it's up to you which way you go.

Looks like they have addressed the issue of twisted frames that happens when one lock pin isn't engaged properly. I would probably opt for the heavier duty one if you are using a grapple or are going to use it hard.

You're link requires a user name and password so I looked up the part numbers at Messick's. They don't have a drawing but it indicates that the 7J290-36100 replaces the 7J273-36100 so it is an updated part. I expect the original was too weak if the new part # is heavier and more $$$. It would be...

I would likely go this route IF the dealer/Landpride declines warrantee claim and the Landpride hub is much more expensive.