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The odometer was just a reference. Greenville explained well.

Just to keep the safety people happy.

DO NOT DO THIS. But hillbilly me would probably block up the rear of the tractor, put it in high gear at a idle and go at the drums that way. You could even bolt a piece of flat bar across the hole and use a large hand file to to kind of lathe off the build up.

I would agree a BX machine with a landscape rake for moving the "sand", and then a land plane/grading scraper to flatten it, and maybe even a chain harrow to give it a bit of a finished look. The harrow will only disturb the top few inches. The turfs would be your best bet, but R14's would be...

If this is a low budget repair, do what you were planning and see what happens. If they work they work, if not you know what you need. I do have concerns about removing that drum, hopefully there are some puller holes to help get it off if needed, it is as much of the problem as the shoes are.

I like it a lot. I am guessing you are also making some removable ramps so the tractor can drive up on them without flexing the plates.

You can try the relief, but I doubt it will do anything. If the pump is worn enough to be this weak, then it is already below the relief setting. A laser thermometer would be of use, if the pump is bypassing that much it should be running much hotter than normal, 200+ degrees. Where ever the...

Because the truth hurts.

I second getting a replacement and keeping it until the original fails.

As long as you run clean fuel, you should not need to worry about it for a very long time. Looking at the parts diagram, it looks like they run two of the same filter. One under the frame, and one close to the engine.

Early Sunday morning, always seem to be the preferred time around here.

I am wondering how tightly it was chained down. I would think you would need to give it a bit of wiggle room to allow for the movement between the trailers.

I had a few big pieces like that this spring. I considered trying to get onto the splitter, but then just got the sledge and wedge. They were straight grained so split remarkable easy. I only did a few at a time as not to pull a muscle, and just split them enough so I could get them on the...

I like the pin. The pin would only need to prevent something bad happening once in it's life, to make up for the little bit of effort it took to make it, ie; bumping the lever while in close quarters, a hose blowing, etc.

If you can cut and weld, you can make anything fit anything. But are you willing to do it ???

The only thing is, you will need to start the tractor from the ground to power the cyl. So if there is a clutch switch, you will need to bypass it, which opens another can of worms.

Another option is one of those cheap bore scopes. But, regardless of what you find, it still needs the head and pan removed.

If your tack/hour meter has a drive cable, what it is actually measuring is the total crank revolutions, just like the odometer on your car. The manufacture then just takes a guess at what the average rpms will be, does some math to find the # of revolutions in a hour, and uses that as one hour...

Something I do is add washers to the lower pins to reduce the amount of side play.