My aux hyd quits working when the oil gets hot after I use it a lot. After the tractor cools it works fine. The tractor is not overheating. My research shows it is probably the pump. Is there any simple fix? Can the pump be rebuilt? New ones aren't cheap and it looks like I have to remove the FEL frame to get it off? I was hoping heavier oil or some after market product might help.
Hydraulic Problems with a M7030.
- Thread starter bsekf
- Start date
TheOldHokie
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Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
What is "auxiliary" hydraulics?
You have a loader and a 3pt.
Do you you also have rear remotes?
Which of those quits working?
Whatever you have you find the source of the problem with a pressure gauge and testing at various points in the circuit. Guessing and blindly throwing new parts at it will simply waste time and money.
There is no "hydraulic mechanic in a can" that will fix a loss in pressure.
Dan
Rear Remote, FEL works off the other rear remote and it becomes very slow. Can't tell if the 3 point works correctly or not since there is no load on it. I am lifting a very heavy off-set disk "Rolling Plow" with the other remote.
TheOldHokie
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Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Got it.
I would suggest you invest $20 in a 3000 PSI hydraulic gauge along with a short length of 1/4" hydraulic hose and whatever fittings needed to hook the gauge and hose to a male tip that fits your rear outlets. Then use that gauge to measure outlet pressure both hot and cold. Thats a baseline diagnostic that will direct where we look next.
Dan
Have to get reducer for pressure gauge, then I can check the pressure. If it is below 2500 I am going to crank the relief valve about a 1/4 turn and see it that helps my problem.
You can try the relief, but I doubt it will do anything. If the pump is worn enough to be this weak, then it is already below the relief setting. A laser thermometer would be of use, if the pump is bypassing that much it should be running much hotter than normal, 200+ degrees. Where ever the oil is bypassing, ie; worn pump, valve, cyl packing, etc, will be hotter than the rest of the system due to the oil being squeezed through a tiny opening where it does not normally go.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Woodsman, I was going to stick a meat thermometer in the dip stick hole to check temp. I think the normal operating temp is 113-131F. Figured 200 would be hot!
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
OK - I assume you are going to put the gauge in a male QC tip and plug it into the rear outlet.
When you have that ready check the pressure right after startup and close to max RPM. Then reduce RPM to 1000 RPM and check it again.
Then wait until the tractor and oil get up to operating temperature and repeat those two tests.
Write the four pressures you get down as you run the tests and post them here. If you want to play with the relief valve adjustment do it AFTER you have recorded those test pressures.
Dan
TheOldHokie
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Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Ideally operating temperature should stay below 80C (175F) but in a mobile application like this it can easily get up around 100C (212F). Even at 100C the system should continue to develop full pressure. If it doesnt something is leaking.
Dan