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I am going to guess and assume ( that's a risky thing to be doing) that the kill solenoid needs to be powered for the engine to run. That being stated, you need to get a multi meter and start checking continuity at each switch to see if it is functioning properly, ( open or closed at the proper...

So what do you think of those rear tires ? Probable more traction that turf tires.

It is not unheard of to have a defective new switch. Work you way through the circuit and verify that each switch is doing what it is suppose to. You may also have a switch/linkage out of adjustment.

Sounds like a good plan to me. Please let us know how you make out.

I think I would take every thing to the dealer first, and hear what they have to say. There COULD be a serial number break in the shafts, or maybe the wrong part got packaged with the right part #. I don't know the joint sizes, but there MAY, be a aftermarket yoke to fit your u-joint.

Awesome. You are by no means the only person to do that, including fully trained experienced mechanics.

I am thinking the four going out to the cylinders may be mixed up. Each set in line with a control handle, should go to a set of cylinders. Looking at your picture, the inner two should go to the boom cyls and the other two to the bucket cyls.

Does the main pressure line flex when you try to raise the boom ? I think you have it labeled as #4. If it does try to move then that indicates it is pressurizing, which is good. In which case you must have two lines swapped, if it does not, then it is on the pump side of things. Also see if...

Where you're desperate, I would take it to a "good" welding or machining shop and see if they can repair it. A good shop can do a lot sometimes, lots of repaired housings last the life of the machine.

Check your front axle oil level, it is quite common for it to be a bit low. If the plugs are still covered in paint then the dealer never checked it.

Can you get at the upper bolts in the bell housing ? I looked at doing that to my L5030, and the only way I could came up with, was to make "access holes" in the floor of the cab.

My L6060 was down 1.5 liters. The plugs were still painted over, so the dealer never checked them.

That's interesting, it does not call for it being changed on my L6060 at 50 hrs, but after seeing yours, I think I might do mine. The hst filter lists for 104.78 and the suction is only 54.84. I cut my hst filter open and it looked fine.

If the issue is bad, check to see if you can flip the wheels around to give a wider stance and more clearance.

looks very well made, where did you get the mesh, it looks very nice.

I would go with the 24 speed trans, it is the 12 speed with a powershift hi/lo, same as the grand L series, a great feature once you use it. For wheels, I would get the cast iron centers if possible, instead of the standard pressed steel centers, it will add additional counter weight for...

It could also be a blown o-ring or a loose fitting. clean things up and find out for sure just where the oil is coming from. Then go from there.

The hoses will need to be the correct size, length, and have the correct ends. In a confines area like the front end, you pretty much need exact replacements as there is little room for error. Lots of places, including farm equipment dealers make custom hyd hoses, but you will need the old ones...

What ever caused the lower ears to be cracked/broken, is probably the root cause of the pto failure.

I like the other two posters ideas, far more controlled. Another option is to hook a chain to it as far up as you can, then pull on it and see what happens. Have you considered cutting it where it is resting on the berm ? The lower section should hopefully stay where it is and the upper section...