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Have a B2601 and exact same thing happened to me last year. Went to start and nothing. Found the pto selector lever was seized partially on. Spray every linkage you can find with a quality lubricant, I use the T40 Krown spray. The worst was the linkage coming out of the main case, totally seized...

If your doing all the work to replace the tank then why not get a fitting welded on the new tank. Do it once and be done with it.

Your choice what you use but I wouldn't extend the time between changes. Again your decision.

Also when you install it again take a sharpie and mark the fittings. You can then quickly see if the fittings are moving again.

I have to agree on the fuel usage. Had an old Bolens H1502 and the 2601 hardly uses anything compared to it. Never thought I would care about amount I use but as the price of diesel goes up I'm glad to have it.

I filled the back tires on my B2601 and reguardless of the tire weight I jacked one side at a time so the tire just left the ground. Very easy to handle a heavy tire if you don't lay it down.

I would say if you can't loosen it with a wrench then something is wrong. Possibly it was cross threaded.

Would you mind posting a video of it operating. Beautiful work.

Started using one of these. Works great. Amazon.com: Automatic Fuel Transfer Pump with Hose, AA Battery Powered, Advanced Adapter Fits All Size Cans, Extra Long Hose, Portable Liquid Pump for Gasoline, Gas, Diesel, Kerosene and Water : Automotive

I use loctite 567. You have to be cafeful with tape as pieces could come off inside.

Went out and did the driveway after replying and because of your post inspected the driveline more carefully. Problem is you get comfortable with everything working and forget shi* can happen very quickly.

So if the shaft is too short on the one side then its too long on the other. You will have to get the blower off the subframe and I would remove the subframe for inspection/repair. When I built the subframe on mine I used a yellow paint pen to mark the shaft on each side of the bearings. Gives a...

From looking at your picture that shaft should overlap about 50%. You are correct in that it does not lock at this end but must lock at the other end where it connects to the mid pto. Make sure it clicks and as stated give it a good pull to verify its locked.

BIL picked up the correct heater from Kubota and the instructions have it as being located in the lower rad hose tee. Took the old one out and installed the new one. Strange that it showed being in the tee and not the block. With the sub zero recent temperatures he surely needs it as the tractor...

As stated if it's the screw in type then not a hard install. Hardest part is having the strength to remove the threaded plug. Kubota must be using farmers on the assembly line. LOL.

Having done a few of this type of block heater on car engines and hear what you're saying. Clean the area the best you can and I usually used a dull flat screwdriver or cold chisel and tap on the side. It ends up rolling the plug so you can grab it with pliers. Tons of u tube videos showing...

That is true. Didn't realize our dollar was worth so little. LOL

Thanks for the reply. I know some items are more in canada but the local dealer quotes him $275.00 for part only. Has to be a mistake by him.

Brother in law next door found out the hard way that his block heater in no good. I checked it with a meter and element is open. While looking at it we found a second heater that was installed in a tee in the lower hose. Also not working. I looked up the tractor and the tee is factory but no...

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachments/20170510_173717-jpg.25692/ First thing I did was paint the dipstick orange.