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I found the spring company referenced in the YouTube I loaded above by the guy who changed the springs on his treadle pedal and solved the stiffness. BUT I can't figure out yet which springs to order. Here is the company's site: https://www.centuryspring.com/ Meantime, someone sent me a...

Tom, an idea I might try for an area of my lawn that has potholes is to drag my box blade full of topsoil over it. Won't have to tear up ALL the grass and start over. I may have to do the latter where the septic field was installed and not finish graded. That'll take major dirt moving. But I...

What I like about loaded is when I am bush hogging a slope. I have a Heavy Hitch too, though that can't be on when the cutter is. My 75 lb. Quick Hitch is back there too. Probably what makes a big safety difference is I have 3" wheel spacers on each rear wheel of my B2601. Loaded rears should...

So you decided against disconnecting the one spring that appeared connected to the safety switch for the starter? And is the piece of wood you are using under the front pedal foot area? So it raises it as if using reverse?

Also, we have reinvented the wheel. There is a whole thread on this forum about modifying for easier reverse: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/b2601-treadle-pedal-hard-to-use.47862/

Frank, how did your modification end up working out?

As near as I can make out from the latter video, these are the springs' dimensions, first in inches and then mm, as well as the maker and possible part numbers: REAR/Reverse: Century Spring Corp C135 Utility Ext Spring 7/16 x 2 x .06 11.25 x 50.80 x 1.575 mm FRONT SPRING/Forward C-179 Utility...

This guy's fix involves replacing the stiff spring.

This may be related or help the reverse too. Not sure but I posted a comment asking him.

Take it slow. If you have hills BE SURE TO USE 4WD GOING DOWN HILL. And getting used to a bucket or grapple on the front, often with a rear implement too, can challenge. It's so easy to hit things as you swing or to get stuck in a fence corner.

The ROPS on my new B2601 does not rattle! Maybe I am too deaf to hear it? i did just tighten the ROPS bolts, which had loosened, so that it is less likely to fall on my head when I fold it to put it in my garage. I find using forward on the treadle pedal feels fine and natural. The reverse...

I think you may be onto something with the uneven resting blades. I used to get mine going on pretty level ground. One thing that has made hookup hard is at least one blade folds up against the carrier, the stump jumper, related to even the slightest slope. Not much I can do except try starting...

I WISH I could mow even in Medium range. Because of my terrain, I'm in low all the time. My HST functions more like a geared tractor. But I am grateful for the three ranges allowing me to pick the best range.

I used to pride myself on easing into a 540 rpm rear pto engagement. Can't seem to do it smoothly on my B2601. If I engage the pto clutch at idle, 1,000 rpm, the tractor stalls out. At just above that and higher, it shakes the bejezus out of me and the machine before smoothing out and letting me...

I respectfully disagree; of course Kubota is being more restrictive. I cannot speculate on the motive. But it puts them behind major advances in oil technology. It may be true that 10-30 and 15-40 are more common worldwide. But not in Europe and not in America. The only reason 5-40, say, might...

Here is a chart someone posted at Green Tractor Talk from their owner's manual. Typically a new owner notices that 0-40 covers the widest range of operating temps and wonders why not to use it. Then most people chime in and say, You should use it! Again, not so much for winter but because it...

BAP, I don't need it for winter cold but have been influenced by the "most wear occurs at startup." The thinner synthetic oils are being used by most people for this reason. My preference would be to use Delvac or Rotella in 5-40. I know a Deere owner who literally cannot believe that my...

George, Kubota's approach to oil seems very restrictive to me. Deere manuals show a full range of modern oil numbers, including those with the low winter flow ratings (0-w, 5-W) many have gone to. Many Deere owners, even under warranty, use 0-40 as the ultimate year-round oil. Much less start-up...

All good, Hokie. Great info. I said after break in but mean at the first oil change. That'll be this fall, probably well before 50 hrs. I hadn't thought of doing it now but do realize dino oil causes more wear meantime.