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Kubota does not have a 3rd function that I am aware of for the std L models. You will probably end up with a WR Long 3rd function kit which is fine and sometimes even recommended for Grand Ls over the factory Kubota 3rd function kits used on the Grand Ls. As far as the rear remotes, a 2 valve...

If you are going to do any grading on a regular basis, forget about making manual adjustments. I have no idea how old you are or what your time is worth to you, just remember what I said. Get the remotes at the time of purchase. Pretty much everyone that gets them after the fact wishes that...

My recommendation for the rear remotes would be to get all 3 that are available and get at least 2 of them with the float feature. Get the remotes at the time of purchase. Pretty much everyone that gets them after the fact wishes that they would have just gotten them to start with. As far as...

Just harder to build the mounts (needs to be supported on both sides of the ball) and not as strong. Strength wise I would not worry about with a 6' blade though as long as you use cat 2 ends or bigger. Take a look at how the factory hydraulic actuated blades are done, that will give you some...

Get a welded 3" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod that has clevis ends on it. I would get a 12" stroke and simply make mounts that will get the cylinder to work. Once you have the cylinder, extend it half way and figure out what you need for mounts. Just need to keep in mind when designing...

With the loader, your tractor can be ballasted to around 10,000lbs. Without the loader, about 8,000lbs. The tractor is fine if ballasted correctly. ;)

I'm lost, if you want the cylinder to either extend or to retract, yes you need to keep the lever pushed or pulled in that direction unless you have self canceling detent control, valves. :confused:

I believe that the L4701 is the only std L model that you can get draft control for.

There should be 2 positions for dumping, fast dump and std dump. The fast dump position will perform exactly as you describe.

If you are considering a top & tilt set sometime, then I highly recommend that you get all 3 rear remotes and that 2 of them should have the float feature. More money, but better to have and not need vs needing and not having. The float feature provides different capabilities with both the top &...

Yes, I stop by OTT a couple of times a day. As I remember, Kubota has a couple of issues with their cylinders for clearance. I have done several sets for people with back hoes and no issues that I am aware of. ;)

Well, you want the detent valve to feed the back hoe, but detent valves are really only good for feeding implements that require a constant flow. While you can use them to control a cylinder, sort of a pain with the control not being a spring return to center valve. The other 2 should have the...

Blade angle only, or offset also? What blade do you currently have and want to add the hydraulic functions to? A picture would be great if it is not a current model.

For a driveway as long as yours, you may want to consider one of these. It will cut your maintenance time in half from a box blade.

You need a valve and a separate return to tank port. Are you doing no grading with this tractor? I know you have your big tractor, but man the smaller ones sure are good for clean up tractors. ;)

Something to consider, is the PD35. It has lower gearing and is waaaaay more implement than the PD25.:) But then it is more money also.:( Should consider the down pressure kit also. Pretty much makes the PHD unstoppable as far as ANY hard ground. People complain about PTO PHDs all the time...

You can always take a smaller bite, but if the blade is simply to small, well you could always go and buy a 7 footer. Get the 7 foot blade. They both have their issues with your tractor. I believe that you will be happier with the RB3784, than the RB3772. ;)

The ETA rear blades are decent, but for about $150 more you can have a LP RB3784 that weighs 20% more. Weight is your friend when it comes to grading. I also prefer the rolled moldboard vs the press bent moldboards. Nothing wrong with either unit and either would serve you well. I just prefer...

I can set mine in 1" increments from taking a 2" cut to having the cutting edge 2" about the ground which would be for snow I would guess. Some are set with washers, so you can get the different heights regulated very close, I have not had a need for anything that exacting. Yes you can get by...

You would use them for everything other than creating a ditch. I have and use the skid shoes every time I use my rear blade.