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It's been working for me for years now, become a habit.

i took the "1/2 throttle" as "half RPM" so set my start idle around 1250 which is half of the operating RPM for my tractor, which is 2500rpm.

In cold weather season, when parking the tractor after usage to shut it down, I set my idle a bit higher than low idle - usually 1250 - 1300rpm, then shut it off. Then after it cools off, maybe the next day, it will be preset at a good start and warmup idle rpm. 5 - 10 seconds of glow...

Sarcasm it seems.

I agree, except he mentioned wanting to clean the unit too. If the cover comes off relatively easily that would be much easier to do. Also allows for close u-joint inspection of the old (from the pic) unit that he has.

Without seeing all sides of the shaft end I can't tell what type of locking the coiver uses, as there are probably a half dozen systems used out there. But usualy there's a lock tab, sometimes 3, that gets pushed with a screwdriver until disengagement from their locked position. With the 3-tab...

I pull the quick hitch pto shaft apart into front/rear halves, and feed the rear piece forward between the hitch uprights as I align and slide them back together. Then depress the clip ring and slide the pto connector onto the hitch shaft and let snap into place. I also store the pto coupler...

Thx for the suggesstions. Two of the bolts attach to a nut welded inside the box, so double nutting very doubtful. Blue locktite on clean metal a good start! The bottom 2 would need a bit longer bolts to add a nut so doable. Just keeping an eye for now.

Keep an eye on the tightness of the four 5/8" bolts that attach the female hitch to the blower body. They have lock washers but all of mine have worked loose, especially the bottom pair. My bottom left bolt vanished completely one day, and the bottom right was also rattling loose! I found a...

Firing up the B2782B today. Got 8" of the fluffy stuff last night.

SE Manitoba, Canada, near Prawda.

Like I mentioned, i run the mid-pto full rpm while blowing snow and raising/lowering the blower at the same time. For 5 winters now in S Manitoba. B2650HSD w/B2782B blower. So in answer, with my setup, I regularly RAISE AND LOWER WHILE BLOWING SNOW (UNDER LOAD).

You hae an LX2610, it has a mid-pto. That's what runs the snow blower, useing a sub-frame with PTO shaft extension to put pto power up front. Also can operate a road brush. I'd find a 5ft rear rotary mower like my Woods M5. It's what I use for larger areas and coarser terrain instead of my JD...

Use your bucket curl for lifting leverage from the ground. WAY more lifting leverage than the loader boom cylinder can produce. Then once loosened with the bucket, lift away with the boom.

Adding my vote for the Fluid Film. Seeps in and sticks around, smells not bad. I keep regular WD40 around as well, for dirt/rust penetration and cleaning. Wipe that down and follow with Fluid Film for lasting results.

I run my B2650HSD with the B2782B 63" blower attached, which uses the B2714C quick hitch and subframe, like yours. I've been blowin snow for 5 winters, and never ONCE did I even think about NOT using the raise/lower hydraulic cylinder throiugh its full up/down range under full power, and often...

85w-140 may be good for severe heat, as it's got a higher visciosity at operating temp than 85w-90 oil. So I wouldn't use it in winter temperatures below freezing, like for your snowblower. If it was for a rototiller running in the south of the USA, I'd put 85w-140 gear oil in the gearbox!

Yup. Formed steel, not cast aluminum like the good old ones. B&D Workmate

Ok, I'm just asking why you may need the weights. Only because with my albeit much smaller B2650 I need nothing more than my BB1560 boxblade on the 3-point to effectively counterbalance the maximum load my front loader can lift with enough rear wheel traction to remain safe, at least at low speeds.

So you're saying you can't lift your loader's max weight with just that BB on the back? With no added balast on it? Have you tried, and the rear wheels lifted before the loader?