I could really use this Buhler/Farm King 8ft hydraulic angle rear blade.

[mcmxi]

You are not wrong about the gauge wheels. But if you take the time to learn how to best use the features of your M6060, you don't need them.

The majority of people think that draft control only works for plowing, WRONG. Think about the load put on the machine cutting 2-3 inches of ground 96" wide.


Answer me this, have you ever even tried to use draft control when grading?

I'm guessing not, if you had and you were good at it, you would not even be considering the gauge wheels.

Using draft control is NOTHING like grading using only the position control.

Just trying to save you some $$$$. I don't believe that it costs you anything but a bit of time to try it.
But you need to understand how to set it up to get good results.

Again, if you don't care for the results, by all means, get the gauge wheels. Makes no difference to me.

What I do know is that for myself and several others on the tractor forums, no gauge wheels needed and we get straight even smooth results.

I cut the road below from virgin ground taking 3" cuts to start with and working my way to a 1"cut as I progressed.

I haven't had a rear blade since owning the M6060 and have only pulled a disc harrow, box blade, land leveler, trailers, folding rotary cutter and rotary cutter with it. I will absolutely start out using draft control, and maybe in a week or two if the weather holds up. I have draft control on both tractors but haven't used that feature yet. If I'm able to get good results I'll certainly reassess the idea of gauge wheels.

Out of interest, do you know if road graders have a feature similar to draft control that raises and lowers the blade based on resistance?

On another note, Control Grips already shipped the four-button controller and adapter to me. It's coming from Canada ... eh!.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I haven't had a rear blade since owning the M6060 and have only pulled a disc harrow, box blade, land leveler, trailers, folding rotary cutter and rotary cutter with it. I will absolutely start out using draft control, and maybe in a week or two if the weather holds up. I have draft control on both tractors but haven't used that feature yet. If I'm able to get good results I'll certainly reassess the idea of gauge wheels.

Out of interest, do you know if road graders have a feature similar to draft control that raises and lowers the blade based on resistance?

On another note, Control Grips already shipped the four-button controller and adapter to me. It's coming from Canada ... eh!.

Mine too. Orderd 2 P series grips yesterday, customized for use on an MX6000. Shipped today.
Honestly, this is not a good sign of things. But we don't want to go down that rabbit hole.
Just wish everyone the best.

 

[mcmxi]

Mine too. Orderd 2 P series grips yesterday, customized for use on an MX6000. Shipped today.
Honestly, this is not a good sign of things. But we don't want to go down that rabbit hole.
Just wish everyone the best.

One of those P Series grips might be in my MX's future too. I would use the 1st and 2nd rear remote levers for the top-n-tilt and the third with that grip or similar for the Del Morino flail which has two cylinders on it, one for cutting head rotation and one for offset.

 

[mcmxi]

It's a grim day but I started to get as much oil out of the three cylinders as possible. I got all six fittings off the end of the hoses without any trouble and all appear to be in good shape. I used a little compressed air to get the swing cylinder to cycle. The cylinders are all stout buggers.

Tilt cylinder: 3x8 with 1.5" rod
Angle cylinder: 3x12 with 1.5" rod
Swing cylinder: 3-1/2x16 with 1.5" rod

I don't know what machine the previous owner used to pull this blade around or if he had UDT2 in it. He asked me what tractor I was going to use with the blade and I told him the M6060. He mentioned that he used a Kubota 5660 or something like that, and stated that the M6060 would be a good fit. Given the color of the almost 1/2 gallon of oil out of that one cylinder I feel that it's well worth the time and effort to drain all three cylinders and hoses.

The CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins won't be here until mid next week so I won't be able to try the rear blade out until then.

 

[jyoutz]

It's a grim day but I started to get as much oil out of the three cylinders as possible. I got all six fittings off the end of the hoses without any trouble and all appear to be in good shape. I used a little compressed air to get the swing cylinder to cycle. The cylinders are all stout buggers.

Tilt cylinder: 3x8 with 1.5" rod
Angle cylinder: 3x12 with 1.5" rod
Swing cylinder: 3-1/2x16 with 1.5" rod

I don't know what machine the previous owner used to pull this blade around or if he had UDT2 in it. He asked me what tractor I was going to use with the blade and I told him the M6060. He mentioned that he used a Kubota 5660 or something like that, and stated that the M6060 would be a good fit. Given the color of the almost 1/2 gallon of oil out of that one cylinder I feel that it's well worth the time and effort to drain all three cylinders and hoses.

The CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins won't be here until mid next week so I won't be able to try the rear blade out until then.

View attachment 142732

View attachment 142733

Pretty ugly looking fluid.

 

[mcmxi]

Pretty ugly looking fluid.

Yep. How many hook up to an hydraulic implement that isn't their's without a second thought re the type or quality of the fluid in it. Do rental companies really drain out the fluid every time an hydraulic implement is returned? Doubtful.

The "beer head" is just foaming from my using compressed air. The fluid is fairly dark in color but feels and smells ok. By the time the oil settled I had 2/3 gallon from the one cylinder. Once I drain all three cylinders and hook up the rear blade to the M6060, I'll add UDT2 to the tractor equivalent to the volume of the old oil.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

It's a grim day but I started to get as much oil out of the three cylinders as possible. I got all six fittings off the end of the hoses without any trouble and all appear to be in good shape. I used a little compressed air to get the swing cylinder to cycle. The cylinders are all stout buggers.

Tilt cylinder: 3x8 with 1.5" rod
Angle cylinder: 3x12 with 1.5" rod
Swing cylinder: 3-1/2x16 with 1.5" rod

I don't know what machine the previous owner used to pull this blade around or if he had UDT2 in it. He asked me what tractor I was going to use with the blade and I told him the M6060. He mentioned that he used a Kubota 5660 or something like that, and stated that the M6060 would be a good fit. Given the color of the almost 1/2 gallon of oil out of that one cylinder I feel that it's well worth the time and effort to drain all three cylinders and hoses.

The CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins won't be here until mid next week so I won't be able to try the rear blade out until then.

View attachment 142732

View attachment 142733

Oh my…looks like the bartender not quite sure of the ratio making their first black and tan.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I think you are wise to drain it and start fresh. It’s an ounce of prevention.

 

[mcmxi]

I think you are wise to drain it and start fresh. It’s an ounce of prevention.

More like 150 ounces of prevention.

 

[jyoutz]

I finished up my hydraulic blade installation today. I have the top link and tilt link

with hydraulic cylinders on the tractor and the angle function on the blade with a cylinder. I had to stay with the manual jack cylinder on the blade offset because I only have 3 remotes.

 

[mcmxi]

I finished up my hydraulic blade installation today. I have the top link and tilt link View attachment 142942 View attachment 142943 View attachment 142944 with hydraulic cylinders on the tractor and the angle function on the blade with a cylinder. I had to stay with the manual jack cylinder on the blade offset because I only have 3 remotes.

Nice!

 

[mcmxi]

@MtnViewRanch, the Scorpion control grip arrived last night via UPS and I have to say thanks and nice! It's not cheap but it's a quality piece for sure and not something I would have even thought or known about had you not mentioned it. I opted for the 1/2" clamp on adapter so will need to modify one of the rear remote control levers by cutting and welding on a 1/2" stud, but that's an easy job.

I have two FD remotes and one SCD remote on the M6060 so I'll be installing the control grip on the SCD lever since the float mode makes no sense to me with a push button set up. If I were intending to use the 4-button rocker box from Summit then installing on an FD would make more sense.

One other thing I learned is that I'll want to run the two-way multiplier that I plan to add to the MX using a 3-way rocker switch which Scorpion offers. With the standard momentary switch, the circuit 1 solenoid is always energized unless the button is pushed. I don't like that idea at all.

The CAT3 to CAT2 pins are on the UPS truck today and should be here this morning. I could actually be using the Buhler/Farm King rear blade later today or sometime tomorrow. Much of the snow has melted off and it's warmed up a bit so not a bad time to go test out overall function and draft control on the lower gravel driveway.

 

[mcmxi]

I've been immersed in the miserable task of opening up the lower lift arm holes on the Buhler/Farm King 3-point brackets to accept the CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins that I bought. CAT 3 pins are 1-7/16" O.D., and I think the CAT 2 holes have been worn enough that a CAT 2 pin is very loose but a CAT 3 pin won't fit.

I'm not about to buy a $500 1-7/16" reamer which would be the best way to do this job, so I've been struggling for hours with a burr bit and cordless DeWalt drill. There are other ways to get this sorted but this is what I'm dealing with. I keep telling myself that it's short term pain and suffering that will soon be forgotten once I'm done.

 

[hedgerow]

I've been immersed in the miserable task of opening up the lower lift arm holes on the Buhler/Farm King 3-point brackets to accept the CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins that I bought. CAT 3 pins are 1-7/16" O.D., and I think the CAT 2 holes have been worn enough that a CAT 2 pin is very loose but a CAT 3 pin won't fit.

I'm not about to buy a $500 1-7/16" reamer which would be the best way to do this job, so I've been struggling for hours with a burr bit and cordless DeWalt drill. There are other ways to get this sorted but this is what I'm dealing with. I keep telling myself that it's short term pain and suffering that will soon be forgotten once I'm done.

When I saw the link for the pins you bought I knew you were in for some fun. I have been down that road a few times and its no fun. Last couple times I just used cat two to cat three bushings cut to length on the cat 2 pins and called it a day. It will look nice when your done. My Rhino seven foot mower has the cat 2 cat 3 pins in it from the factory.

 

[mcmxi]

When I saw the link for the pins you bought I knew you were in for some fun. I have been down that road a few times and its no fun. Last couple times I just used cat two to cat three bushings cut to length on the cat 2 pins and called it a day. It will look nice when your done. My Rhino seven foot mower has the cat 2 cat 3 pins in it from the factory.

Yeah, it's been a frustrating and disappointing day with very slow progress . I might buy a used reamer from eBay or go in a different direction altogether. Allied/Farm King specs show CAT 2 on the Series 80 rear blade and CAT 2 and CAT 3 on the Series 100 and up. The holes were over-sized for CAT 2 for sure, and that excessive movement will cause more damage to the hole so I figured this would be a good solution.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yeah, it's been a frustrating and disappointing day with very slow progress . I might buy a used reamer from eBay or go in a different direction altogether. Allied/Farm King specs show CAT 2 on the Series 80 rear blade and CAT 2 and CAT 3 on the Series 100 and up. The holes were over-sized for CAT 2 for sure, and that excessive movement will cause more damage to the hole so I figured this would be a good solution.

couple options:

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America-High-Speed-Reduced-Shank-16/dp/B00AYZ4L60/ref=asc_df_B00AYZ4L60?mcid=6e2fd71743103eb69bba8f5599716464&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693308318551&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11434127895559074289&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029659&hvtargid=pla-819174602361&th=1

Morse 1-7/16" DRILL BIT 1-7/16" SILVER & DEMING BIT HIGH SPEED STEEL USA (a894) | eBay

SILVER & DEMING DRILL. 1/2 Reduced Shank Silver & Deming Drill. MORSE CUTTING TOOLS.USA MADE. POINT ANGLE: 118 DEGREE. HIGH SPEED STEEL. SCALE NOT INCLUDED.

www.ebay.com

https://www.amazon.com/CENYB-Heavy-Carbide-Titanium-Pilot/dp/B0B684NGGD/ref=asc_df_B0B684NGGD?mcid=709f7fb600913b9abbdbf131fcf1862d&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693071814673&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11434127895559074289&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029659&hvtargid=pla-1968996861746&th=1

1 7/16" DIAMETER CARBIDE TIPPED EXPANSION / ADJUSTABLE REAMER BRIDGEPORT MILL | eBay

Plain Bore Ring Gages. Exactly what I needed. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again.”. ”Gage was protected very good. Will buy from you again.”. LOCATION: WB-SW-1-4-2. We pride ourselves in prompt and accurate service to make sure your order arrives when you need it to.

www.ebay.com

I bought the driver for this style of bit, The are Insane for cutting steel!

Cheaper version of above.

 

[mcmxi]

couple options:



I bought the driver for this style of bit, The are Insane for cutting steel!

View attachment 143254

Thanks for all those recommendations. I have a Hougen mag drill and use their cutting tools which as you say are incredible on steel. Maybe the best solution is to weld in some plugs to fill the holes and use the Mag drill to cut new holes with one of those tools. The problem or challenge would be the depth of cut. The two brackets (plates) are 4" or so apart so I'd need to be able to plunge through both plates from the outside since there's no way to mount the mag drill on the inside of the plates. I hope that makes sense.

I'll call a local steel supply business on Monday and see if they're able to make up some new plates with appropriate holes. They can cut the plates but not sure if they can make holes that are 1-7/16" in diameter. I could even add a third plate like Land Pride does with their CAT 2/CAT 1 option.

Either way, I've put in way too much time and effort and not making good progress. Time to try something else. No regrets on the rear blade though. It's been used on a farm for years and who knows what that blade has been through. I'll get it sorted out eventually.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm assuming that you are using your QH? Why not simply weld the pins with bushings in place?
No reason to be able to remove the pins anyway, deal with changing things out down the road if needed.

Put that implement to work.

Just an option.

 

[mcmxi]

I'm assuming that you are using your QH? Why not simply weld the pins with bushings in place?
No reason to be able to remove the pins anyway, deal with changing things out down the road if needed.

Put that implement to work.

Just an option.

Apologies in advance for the long and tedious post but it helps me to get it on paper in order to see the woods for the trees.

I had thought about the welding option but wanted a more "elegant" solution. As for using the rear blade with a QH, a QH10, QH15 or QH16 would work inside of the pin brackets which have a spacing of 31", but the QH10 and QH16 would need a CAT 1 pin which is too small for this implement so that option is out. I have a QH15 which would have worked with CAT 2 to CAT 3 bushings, but since every implement I have that is QH compatible uses CAT 1 pins, I modified the QH15 so that it's basically a QH16.

A QH20 would work centered between the pin brackets which have a spacing of 32-1/4" (inside of inner plates) to 38" (inside of outer plates) engaging the CAT 3 pins. So now I'm thinking that if I open up the outside holes on both sides, one is already done, to accept the CAT 3 pin, and then weld the pins in place, I would connect the rear blade to the tractor without a QH using the CAT 2 pins (no bushings required). If I ever wanted to use a QH I could purchase a QH20 which I could also use on all my other QH compatible implements, with CAT 2 to CAT 3 bushings of course.

So the cheapest and quickest way to get this blade operational would be to weld the CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins in place. I would either need to buy a QH20 or "unmodify" the QH15 (would need bushings) in order to use the blade with a QH. This blade will live on the M6060 all winter so I'm not that concerned about QH compatibility at this point. That said, I quite like the idea of a QH20 at some point and with welded pins I'll never have to worry about the holes wallowing out from hard use.

Just so it's clear that I'm not making this up, here's a photo showing a CAT 2 to CAT 1 pin that I use on my Land Pride RCR1884 sitting in one of the rear blade pin holes. You can see that the 1-1/8" pin has a large gap around it, but not large enough for a CAT 3 pin (go figure), but the hole is a lot closer to CAT 3 than CAT 2, hence my decision to open up the holes to accept CAT 3 pins.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If the pictured holes are (as you purchased) the rear blade, they look to be made for hardened bushings to be pressed in similar to what Land Pride does.

Good luck with your Remedy.