I could really use this Buhler/Farm King 8ft hydraulic angle rear blade.

[mcmxi]

You are not wrong about the gauge wheels. But if you take the time to learn how to best use the features of your M6060, you don't need them.

The majority of people think that draft control only works for plowing, WRONG. Think about the load put on the machine cutting 2-3 inches of ground 96" wide.


Answer me this, have you ever even tried to use draft control when grading?

I'm guessing not, if you had and you were good at it, you would not even be considering the gauge wheels.

Using draft control is NOTHING like grading using only the position control.

Just trying to save you some $$$$. I don't believe that it costs you anything but a bit of time to try it.
But you need to understand how to set it up to get good results.

Again, if you don't care for the results, by all means, get the gauge wheels. Makes no difference to me.

What I do know is that for myself and several others on the tractor forums, no gauge wheels needed and we get straight even smooth results.

I cut the road below from virgin ground taking 3" cuts to start with and working my way to a 1"cut as I progressed.

I haven't had a rear blade since owning the M6060 and have only pulled a disc harrow, box blade, land leveler, trailers, folding rotary cutter and rotary cutter with it. I will absolutely start out using draft control, and maybe in a week or two if the weather holds up. I have draft control on both tractors but haven't used that feature yet. If I'm able to get good results I'll certainly reassess the idea of gauge wheels.

Out of interest, do you know if road graders have a feature similar to draft control that raises and lowers the blade based on resistance?

On another note, Control Grips already shipped the four-button controller and adapter to me. It's coming from Canada ... eh!.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I haven't had a rear blade since owning the M6060 and have only pulled a disc harrow, box blade, land leveler, trailers, folding rotary cutter and rotary cutter with it. I will absolutely start out using draft control, and maybe in a week or two if the weather holds up. I have draft control on both tractors but haven't used that feature yet. If I'm able to get good results I'll certainly reassess the idea of gauge wheels.

Out of interest, do you know if road graders have a feature similar to draft control that raises and lowers the blade based on resistance?

On another note, Control Grips already shipped the four-button controller and adapter to me. It's coming from Canada ... eh!.

Mine too. Orderd 2 P series grips yesterday, customized for use on an MX6000. Shipped today.
Honestly, this is not a good sign of things. But we don't want to go down that rabbit hole.
Just wish everyone the best.

 

[mcmxi]

Mine too. Orderd 2 P series grips yesterday, customized for use on an MX6000. Shipped today.
Honestly, this is not a good sign of things. But we don't want to go down that rabbit hole.
Just wish everyone the best.

One of those P Series grips might be in my MX's future too. I would use the 1st and 2nd rear remote levers for the top-n-tilt and the third with that grip or similar for the Del Morino flail which has two cylinders on it, one for cutting head rotation and one for offset.

 

[mcmxi]

It's a grim day but I started to get as much oil out of the three cylinders as possible. I got all six fittings off the end of the hoses without any trouble and all appear to be in good shape. I used a little compressed air to get the swing cylinder to cycle. The cylinders are all stout buggers.

Tilt cylinder: 3x8 with 1.5" rod
Angle cylinder: 3x12 with 1.5" rod
Swing cylinder: 3-1/2x16 with 1.5" rod

I don't know what machine the previous owner used to pull this blade around or if he had UDT2 in it. He asked me what tractor I was going to use with the blade and I told him the M6060. He mentioned that he used a Kubota 5660 or something like that, and stated that the M6060 would be a good fit. Given the color of the almost 1/2 gallon of oil out of that one cylinder I feel that it's well worth the time and effort to drain all three cylinders and hoses.

The CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins won't be here until mid next week so I won't be able to try the rear blade out until then.

 

[jyoutz]

It's a grim day but I started to get as much oil out of the three cylinders as possible. I got all six fittings off the end of the hoses without any trouble and all appear to be in good shape. I used a little compressed air to get the swing cylinder to cycle. The cylinders are all stout buggers.

Tilt cylinder: 3x8 with 1.5" rod
Angle cylinder: 3x12 with 1.5" rod
Swing cylinder: 3-1/2x16 with 1.5" rod

I don't know what machine the previous owner used to pull this blade around or if he had UDT2 in it. He asked me what tractor I was going to use with the blade and I told him the M6060. He mentioned that he used a Kubota 5660 or something like that, and stated that the M6060 would be a good fit. Given the color of the almost 1/2 gallon of oil out of that one cylinder I feel that it's well worth the time and effort to drain all three cylinders and hoses.

The CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins won't be here until mid next week so I won't be able to try the rear blade out until then.

View attachment 142732

View attachment 142733

Pretty ugly looking fluid.

 

[mcmxi]

Pretty ugly looking fluid.

Yep. How many hook up to an hydraulic implement that isn't their's without a second thought re the type or quality of the fluid in it. Do rental companies really drain out the fluid every time an hydraulic implement is returned? Doubtful.

The "beer head" is just foaming from my using compressed air. The fluid is fairly dark in color but feels and smells ok. By the time the oil settled I had 2/3 gallon from the one cylinder. Once I drain all three cylinders and hook up the rear blade to the M6060, I'll add UDT2 to the tractor equivalent to the volume of the old oil.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

It's a grim day but I started to get as much oil out of the three cylinders as possible. I got all six fittings off the end of the hoses without any trouble and all appear to be in good shape. I used a little compressed air to get the swing cylinder to cycle. The cylinders are all stout buggers.

Tilt cylinder: 3x8 with 1.5" rod
Angle cylinder: 3x12 with 1.5" rod
Swing cylinder: 3-1/2x16 with 1.5" rod

I don't know what machine the previous owner used to pull this blade around or if he had UDT2 in it. He asked me what tractor I was going to use with the blade and I told him the M6060. He mentioned that he used a Kubota 5660 or something like that, and stated that the M6060 would be a good fit. Given the color of the almost 1/2 gallon of oil out of that one cylinder I feel that it's well worth the time and effort to drain all three cylinders and hoses.

The CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins won't be here until mid next week so I won't be able to try the rear blade out until then.

View attachment 142732

View attachment 142733

Oh my…looks like the bartender not quite sure of the ratio making their first black and tan.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I think you are wise to drain it and start fresh. It’s an ounce of prevention.

 

[mcmxi]

I think you are wise to drain it and start fresh. It’s an ounce of prevention.

More like 150 ounces of prevention.

 

[jyoutz]

I finished up my hydraulic blade installation today. I have the top link and tilt link

with hydraulic cylinders on the tractor and the angle function on the blade with a cylinder. I had to stay with the manual jack cylinder on the blade offset because I only have 3 remotes.

 

[mcmxi]

I finished up my hydraulic blade installation today. I have the top link and tilt link View attachment 142942 View attachment 142943 View attachment 142944 with hydraulic cylinders on the tractor and the angle function on the blade with a cylinder. I had to stay with the manual jack cylinder on the blade offset because I only have 3 remotes.

Nice!