mcmxi
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
You are not wrong about the gauge wheels. But if you take the time to learn how to best use the features of your M6060, you don't need them.
The majority of people think that draft control only works for plowing, WRONG. Think about the load put on the machine cutting 2-3 inches of ground 96" wide.
Answer me this, have you ever even tried to use draft control when grading?
I'm guessing not, if you had and you were good at it, you would not even be considering the gauge wheels.
Using draft control is NOTHING like grading using only the position control.
Just trying to save you some $$$$. I don't believe that it costs you anything but a bit of time to try it.
But you need to understand how to set it up to get good results.
Again, if you don't care for the results, by all means, get the gauge wheels. Makes no difference to me.
What I do know is that for myself and several others on the tractor forums, no gauge wheels needed and we get straight even smooth results.
I cut the road below from virgin ground taking 3" cuts to start with and working my way to a 1"cut as I progressed.
I haven't had a rear blade since owning the M6060 and have only pulled a disc harrow, box blade, land leveler, trailers, folding rotary cutter and rotary cutter with it. I will absolutely start out using draft control, and maybe in a week or two if the weather holds up. I have draft control on both tractors but haven't used that feature yet. If I'm able to get good results I'll certainly reassess the idea of gauge wheels.
Out of interest, do you know if road graders have a feature similar to draft control that raises and lowers the blade based on resistance?
On another note, Control Grips already shipped the four-button controller and adapter to me. It's coming from Canada ... eh!.
Last edited: