I could really use this Buhler/Farm King 8ft hydraulic angle rear blade.

[mcmxi]

When I was kid I pushed a lot of snow at my folks business and the small town I lived in with a three point blade. IN my adult life I have owned two three point blades both were Rhino brand a 8Ft one and then a 1540 10 Ft with rear gauge wheel. Bought both used from guys that never used them and I sold them for the same reason. That 1540 was a monster of a blade and you needed a tractor with four remotes to run it right. I just like front mount blades and that's what my 100 HP skid steer is for.

I have a front hydraulic blade on my MX with rear snow blower. This will be used on the M6060 for a little snow work in the winter, and dirt/'gravel work the rest of the year. I will look into adding a fourth remote out back if gauge wheels are in my future ... which is likely.

I just took a look at that RhinoAg 1540 10ft model and yes, it's a beast of a rear blade at 1,880lb!! This Buhler/Farm King is closer to a RhinoAg 950 and maybe a couple of hundred pounds heavier.

I have 400 yards of gravel driveway to maintain so even if the blade is only used a few times a year it's worth it to me. I very much doubt that I'll be selling this one.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

I live very close to one of the large almost 1 million square foot plants plants in central Canada. A very large plant that makes some of their Versatile tractors that is now partnered up with Russians. Some of their senior staff are actually on US sanction lists due to ties with Putin. John Buhler got involved in this business something like 60 or 70 years ago.

We see a lot of their product around here and I personally own a few pieces. Their smaller implement stuff (say stuff under $100k) which I see on almost everyone's yard around here is known and proven to be good to very good quality. Is their stuff the best of the best??? arguable it is not but definitely not something I would ever be embarrassed of owning and if not abused and maintained can last a lifetime.

Versatile tractors on the other hand??? not something I would choose.

Grey and Red stuff like Snowblower, rear blades, stump grinder, augers, rake, etc.... all sit on my yards and will out live me thats for sure.

You shouldn't be disappointed in the quality of your buy as long as not used/abused/broken.


Cheers

 

[mcmxi]

You shouldn't be disappointed in the quality of your buy as long as not used/abused/broken.

Thanks! It looks to be in great shape, or at least in good shape given the age.

Implements are so expensive these days, and there are a lot of factors to consider when deciding on new vs. used. I got quotes for the following rear blades from the local Kubota dealer.

Land Pride RBT3596 - $5,300
Land Pride RBT4596 - $7,540

Those prices included hydraulics but no gauge wheels. The RBT3596 with hydraulics is available in Sheridan, WY for $4,775 but the 8 hour drive there and back, and the overnight hotel would probably bring the final cost to more than the local dealer, not to mention burning up two days of travel.

I bought the Buhler/Farm King blade for $3,600 and it's much closer to the RBT4596 than the RBT3596, and given the condition and additional suitcase weights I think the price was fair. No doubt it was purchased new in 2008 for half of what I paid but the original purchase price is irrelevant to me. What matters is how much an implement costs today, either new or used, until my time machine is completed that is.

 

[jyoutz]

Thanks! It looks to be in great shape, or at least in good shape given the age.

Implements are so expensive these days, and there are a lot of factors to consider when deciding on new vs. used. I got quotes for the following rear blades from the local Kubota dealer.

Land Pride RBT3596 - $5,300
Land Pride RBT4596 - $7,540

Those prices included hydraulics but no gauge wheels. The RBT3596 with hydraulics is available in Sheridan, WY for $4,775 but the 8 hour drive there and back, and the overnight hotel would probably bring the final cost to more than the local dealer, not to mention burning up two days of travel.

I bought the Buhler/Farm King blade for $3,600 and it's much closer to the RBT4596 than the RBT3596, and given the condition and additional suitcase weights I think the price was fair. No doubt it was purchased new in 2008 for half of what I paid but the original purchase price is irrelevant to me. What matters is how much an implement costs today, either new or used, until my time machine is completed that is.

I bought my Bison blade in January 2022 for $2700 new. But it had no hydraulics. I’m adding that now.

 

[mcmxi]

I bought my Bison blade in January 2022 for $2700 new. But it had no hydraulics. I’m adding that now.

What model do you have, are you adding all three cylinders, and how much to add the hydraulics?

Your earlier comment about flipping the blade for snow has me looking at photos and figuring out what needs to happen to do that. Looks like only the blade angle cylinder will need to be disconnected at one end, the blade flipped and the cylinder reconnected.

Another thought I had is that I might want to add brackets so that the offset cylinder can mount on the opposite side to provide an offset to the left as well as to the right (current configuration). As it currently sits, I'd need to be heading up the driveway to push snow over the edge and down the hill. Not a big deal for the M6060 but it's something to think about.

 

[jyoutz]

What model do you have, are you adding all three cylinders, and how much to add the hydraulics?

Your earlier comment about flipping the blade for snow has me looking at photos and figuring out what needs to happen to do that. Looks like only the blade angle cylinder will need to be disconnected at one end, the blade flipped and the cylinder reconnected.

Another thought I had is that I might want to add brackets so that the offset cylinder can mount on the opposite side to provide an offset to the left as well as to the right (current configuration). As it currently sits, I'd need to be heading up the driveway to push snow over the edge and down the hill. Not a big deal for the M6060 but it's something to think about.

Currently I’m just adding hydraulic angle because I have top and tilt on the tractor and only three remotes. You’re correct about the process to reverse the blade. Just pull the angle cylinder pin and reverse, then reattach. The Bison angle cylinder, hose, and connectors cost $321 including tax back in July from Idaho Implement. I would also add an offset cylinder but don’t have another port. Instead I’m using a ratchet cylinder that makes that task easier, but still I have to do this manually.

https://www.amazon.com/Double-HH-Ratchet-Black-22590/dp/B00C4TQDTC/ref=asc_df_B00C4TQDTC?mcid=f6529d6929673f4c9cc16a315ec75b00&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693071499064&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6678602921246684550&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030456&hvtargid=pla-365090611567&psc=1

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What model do you have, are you adding all three cylinders, and how much to add the hydraulics?

Your earlier comment about flipping the blade for snow has me looking at photos and figuring out what needs to happen to do that. Looks like only the blade angle cylinder will need to be disconnected at one end, the blade flipped and the cylinder reconnected.

Another thought I had is that I might want to add brackets so that the offset cylinder can mount on the opposite side to provide an offset to the left as well as to the right (current configuration). As it currently sits, I'd need to be heading up the driveway to push snow over the edge and down the hill. Not a big deal for the M6060 but it's something to think about.

I may very well be wrong, But It sure looks to me that the offset cylinder is not fully extended when the boom is parallel to the tractor. Meaning that it does adjust to the left and right.

If not simply make a new mount for the onside so that the one hydraulic adjusts to the left and right sides without doing anything than moving the control lever for that cylinder.

Easy enough to do. All the RBT Land Pride models are that way.

 

[mcmxi]

I may very well be wrong, But It sure looks to me that the offset cylinder is not fully extended when the boom is parallel to the tractor. Meaning that it does adjust to the left and right.

I think you're absolutely right. I thought I'd read somewhere that the offset was only to one side but the Buhler/Farm King manual states 30 degrees to the left or the right (but Allied states 20 degrees online) and the cylinder does look like it could extend a bunch more. Will you look at that, I just completed a project from the comfort of a warm house!

 

[mcmxi]

Currently I’m just adding hydraulic angle because I have top and tilt on the tractor and only three remotes.

I would also add an offset cylinder but don’t have another port. Instead I’m using a ratchet cylinder that makes that task easier, but still I have to do this manually.

I'm going to swap out the top-n-tilt cylinders on the M for the standard links and eventually add a fourth rear remote for a set of gauge wheels. I'll most likely fabricate the necessary bracket, buy some wheels and an hydraulic cylinder and call it good. I bet it's an expensive option from Alllied or similar.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Unless your Kubotas are different than every other Kubota, I think that you should probably reconsider taking off the hyd top link at least. When you have the rear blade on, the actual blade itself is is not going to be very far off the ground. Typically around 12".

You can make use of the top link by retracting it and gaining at least another 12" if not more in blade height which sure helps for transporting as well as loading on a trailer.

Get a 4 function multiplier and one of these control grips and you can control all 4 functions from your 3rd rear remote valve without ever taking your hand from the control lever.

 

[mcmxi]

Unless your Kubotas are different than every other Kubota, I think that you should probably reconsider taking off the hyd top link at least. When you have the rear blade on, the actual blade itself is is not going to be very far off the ground. Typically around 12".

You can make use of the top link by retracting it and gaining at least another 12" if not more in blade height which sure helps for transporting as well as loading on a trailer.

Get a 4 function multiplier and one of these control grips and you can control all 4 functions from your 3rd rear remote valve without ever taking your hand from the control lever.

Thanks very much for the advice and the links to those very slick upgrades. This will all have to wait until the spring, but I'll try the blade without top-n-tilt and put the hydraulic top link back on if I have issues with the blade being too close to the ground.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

In 17 years of use, not a single time have I ever needed to tilt my rear blade more than what my hydraulic side link provides. I would keep the tilt cylinder on the tractor and forget about the tilt on the rear blade.

But that's just me. Nothing wrong with expermenting with these different options.

Don't forget about expermenting with the draft control.

 

[jyoutz]

Thanks very much for the advice and the links to those very slick upgrades. This will all have to wait until the spring, but I'll try the blade without top-n-tilt and put the hydraulic top link back on if I have issues with the blade being too close to the ground.

I had issues with my blade not raising high enough. Then I discovered that the lift arms have two holes for the lifting link. I moved the lift link attachment to the lower holes and now the blade lifts plenty high enough even before I added the hydraulic top link.

 

[jyoutz]

I

I may very well be wrong, But It sure looks to me that the offset cylinder is not fully extended when the boom is parallel to the tractor. Meaning that it does adjust to the left and right.

If not simply make a new mount for the onside so that the one hydraulic adjusts to the left and right sides without doing anything than moving the control lever for that cylinder.

Easy enough to do. All the RBT Land Pride models are that way.

I guess I can’t see the need to offset on both sides. Mine is currently set up to offset to the right. I work the ditches on the right and then just reverse travel direction to do the other side of the road.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What if your road only has a ditch on one side? Then you are driving all the way back to where you started instead of just turning around and going back in the opposite direction. If it's a short distance, no big deal. If it's a mile, it is a big deal.

It's one of those times the need may not be common, but it does exist.

Sort of like having a 3pt tilt cylinder that is level when fully retracted and you only get tilt down on the right. The need for tilting down on the left may not occur often, but when it does it's a SOAB to have to change the tilt cylinder over to the left side.

So, while you may not have that need, it surely does exist and may be more common than you think.

 

[jyoutz]

What if your road only has a ditch on one side? Then you are driving all the way back to where you started instead of just turning around and going back in the opposite direction. If it's a short distance, no big deal. If it's a mile, it is a big deal.

It's one of those times the need may not be common, but it does exist.

Sort of like having a 3pt tilt cylinder that is level when fully retracted and you only get tilt down on the right. The need for tilting down on the left may not occur often, but when it does it's a SOAB to have to change the tilt cylinder over to the left side.

So, while you may not have that need, it surely does exist and may be more common than you think.

I guess there are some people with those needs; for the 2300’ of road I maintain, going down one side, then up the other is most efficient.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I guess there are some people with those needs; for the 2300’ of road I maintain, going down one side, then up the other is most efficient.

Exacly, one-sided offset works fine for your set of circumstances.

 

[mcmxi]

I guess there are some people with those needs; for the 2300’ of road I maintain, going down one side, then up the other is most efficient.

I don't have as much of a driveway to maintain as you, but my driveway is steep so it's easier to move dirt, gravel or snow working with gravity rather than against it. I don't run the blower on the gravel section shown below. I mostly push snow with the MX heading downhill starting on the right side then making another pass to try to move the snow all the way to the left. You can see in the second photo how the snow builds up on the left and I need/want to push it over the edge without rolling a tractor. So ideally I can swing the blade over to the left and keep the M6060 safely away from the edge. The bottom photo does a better job of showing what sort of drop off I'm facing, and how rolling a tractor would most likely prove to be fatal. The lower driveway is the dark line in the bottom photos that meets up with the asphalt section of driveway.

If I want to clean out or maintain the small ditch on the right side of the driveway I'd need to swing the blade over to the right a bit if I want to grade heading downhill.

If you were to add the swing/boom cylinder to your blade, would it swing in both directions without swapping the cylinder to the other side?

 

[jyoutz]

I don't have as much of a driveway to maintain as you, but my driveway is steep so it's easier to move dirt, gravel or snow working with gravity rather than against it. I don't run the blower on the gravel section shown below. I mostly push snow with the MX heading downhill starting on the right side then making another pass to try to move the snow all the way to the left. You can see in the second photo how the snow builds up on the left and I need/want to push it over the edge without rolling a tractor. So ideally I can swing the blade over to the left and keep the M6060 safely away from the edge. The bottom photo does a better job of showing what sort of drop off I'm facing, and how rolling a tractor would most likely prove to be fatal. The lower driveway is the dark line in the bottom photos that meets up with the asphalt section of driveway.

If I want to clean out or maintain the small ditch on the right side of the driveway I'd need to swing the blade over to the right a bit if I want to grade heading downhill.

If you were to add the swing/boom cylinder to your blade, would it swing in both directions without swapping the cylinder to the other side?

View attachment 142446

View attachment 142447

View attachment 142448

My offset cylinder is on the left side and shifts the blade to the right. I have a similar situation as you with a drop off on the left side but not quite as steep. What I do is offset to push snow to the right hand ditch going downhill and push into the left hand ditch (with drop off) going uphill. Yes that means I’m pushing snow uphill for a short distance (it slides into the ditch so not much is being pushed uphill). I have done this with up to 22” of snow. If we receive more, I would probably take a narrower path with overlap when I push uphill to reduce the snow build up on the blade before it slides into the ditch. I would need to make an additional pass.

 

[mcmxi]

My offset cylinder is on the left side and shifts the blade to the right. I have a similar situation as you with a drop off on the left side but not quite as steep. What I do is offset to push snow to the right hand ditch going downhill and push into the left hand ditch (with drop off) going uphill. Yes that means I’m pushing snow uphill for a short distance (it slides into the ditch so not much is being pushed uphill). I have done this with up to 22” of snow. If we receive more, I would probably take a narrower path with overlap when I push uphill to reduce the snow build up on the blade before it slides into the ditch. I would need to make an additional pass.

Thanks for the insight, and a search on this forum reveals that you have the Bison NB80-240 which is a very nice rear blade. Sounds like you got it for a great price too.

Thanks to @MtnViewRanch I spent way too much time last night looking at Summit Hydraulics products. That's a rabbit hole for sure, and just like everything tractor related, an expensive rabbit hole!