I could really use this Buhler/Farm King 8ft hydraulic angle rear blade.

[mcmxi]

If the pictured holes are (as you purchased) the rear blade, they look to be made for hardened bushings to be pressed in similar to what Land Pride does.

Good luck with your Remedy.

Thanks! And thanks also for getting me to go in a different direction, one that I'm pleased with. Yes, the earlier photo with the CAT 2 to CAT 1 pin shows the holes as the implement was purchased. So you think that bushings for a CAT 2 pin might have been in those holes originally? That's an interesting thought.

Today was a much better day. I used plasma to open up the holes for the pins and also to do some weld prep in the form of cutting a bevel around six of the eight faces to be welded. I then used 7018 rod to completely weld up the pins. I'm happy with how this has turned out and it's certainly a lot stronger than it would be with pins that are free to rotate and slide. The welded pins obviously tie the two plates together which makes it much stronger (not necessarily needed of course). Those plates that hold the pins are over 1/2" thick, more like 9/16" so pretty stout as it is.

I did a bit of clean up grinding too, for example the two plates where the top link connects via a pin. Some ACE Hardware gloss black paint made everything look decent. It was easy to get the implement on the M6060 after I swapped out the top-n-tilt for the original top link and lifting rod. I connected the hydraulic hoses and cycled all three cylinders and they work great. I have them set up the way I want and will check and most likely add hydraulic oil tomorrow since the blade probably took 1-1/2 gallons.

I'll take the blade for a spin tomorrow.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

With the blade being as low as it is when lifted, you will soon find that you need your top link just for general transport.

You do not need to remove the T&T set; just unplug them, and they are as solid as the OEM manual links.
You're going to need those diverters sooner than you might think.

 

[mcmxi]

With the blade being as low as it is when lifted, you will soon find that you need your top link just for general transport.

You do not need to remove the T&T set; just unplug them, and they are as solid as the OEM manual links.
You're going to need those diverters sooner than you might think.

Yeah, that fancy 4x multiplier might get ordered early in the new year. For now I need to remove the top-n-tilt so that I have three rear remotes to use with the rear blade. The blade can be raised high enough for the sort of tasks I'll be doing this winter. I need to get the 3-point leveled up tomorrow and remove two zerks and see why they won't allow grease to flow.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

With the blade being as low as it is when lifted, you will soon find that you need your top link just for general transport.

You do not need to remove the T&T set; just unplug them, and they are as solid as the OEM manual links.
You're going to need those diverters sooner than you might think.

Upgrades / Updates, It's such a slippery slope!

 

[S-G-R]

View attachment 143298

What a weapon! Looking forward to hearing how it preforms.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Yeah, that fancy 4x multiplier might get ordered early in the new year. For now I need to remove the top-n-tilt so that I have three rear remotes to use with the rear blade. The blade can be raised high enough for the sort of tasks I'll be doing this winter. I need to get the 3-point leveled up tomorrow and remove two zerks and see why they won't allow grease to flow.

WHY? Simply unplug the couplers and bungee the ends up out of the way. The cylinder-s should be rock solid. That way you have easy adjustment when needed.

I believe that it is easier to plug-unplug couplers than to manually adjust the links, no??

 

[mcmxi]

WHY? Simply unplug the couplers and bungee the ends up out of the way. The cylinder-s should be rock solid. That way you have easy adjustment when needed.

I believe that it is easier to plug-unplug couplers than to manually adjust the links, no??

I understand your point, and you've made it earlier in this thread, but here's a list of the reasons why I swap out top-n-tilt on both tractors.

1. It only takes 5 minutes to switch out top-n-tilt for the standard top link and lift rod
2. Swapping out top-n-tilt allows for servicing/greasing pins
3. Swapping out top-n-tilt means that parts aren't sitting on a shelf for decades not being used
4. I don't like the idea of hoses and fittings out back that aren't being used
5. It's tidier/cleaner not having unused hoses and fittings hanging around out back
6. The top link and lift rod only need to be adjusted once
7. Because they're my tractors

I've been reading up on draft control for both tractors and am looking forward to trying that feature today. It's cold this morning but it should warm up later today. The M6060 is plugged in and warming up too.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

OK, you have your reasons.

 

[mcmxi]

OK, you have your reasons.

You've been an enormous help in this thread what with the Scorpion grip controls, the Summit multipliers and the suggestion to weld the CAT 3/CAT 2 pins in place. There's only so much I can absorb, but if next year I'm using top-n-tilt cylinders in the way you suggest I'll be sure to thank you for that too.

As for draft control, I hope it's everything you say it is and that I can get the lower gravel driveway as flat as a runway.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You've been an enormous help in this thread what with the Scorpion grip controls, the Summit multipliers and the suggestion to weld the CAT 3/CAT 2 pins in place. There's only so much I can absorb, but if next year I'm using top-n-tilt cylinders in the way you suggest I'll be sure to thank you for that too.

As for draft control, I hope it's everything you say it is and that I can get the lower gravel driveway as flat as a runway.

Regarding draft control, as long as you understand how to set it up (adjust it as needed for the circumstances), it will work as needed.

 

[mcmxi]

I was able to test out the Buhler/Farm King blade yesterday and it's pretty awesome, but unfortunately my road grading skills are not. The conditions were near perfect when I started, but a couple of hours later (was supposed to be a 30 minute test), the gravel was soft and I got myself into all kinds of issues.

Regardless, the blade is excellent and will see a lot of use I'm sure. The second photo shows how much overhang the blade has when swung all the way over to one side, and with the wheels on solid ground I should have no problem pushing snow over the edge and rolling downhill.

The M6060 is running like a top and is enough of a beast to pull a loaded blade uphill in 2WD which is impressive, and that's not in creep range, just low range and first gear at 1,500 rpm. I'm going to remove the snow blower and hook up the EA land leveler to the MX later today and try to improve on the finish.