Looks good. Probably a lot quieter than the two metal .50 cal boxes I mounted on my ROPS. I keep a bare minimum of tools and a rag to wipe off the hydraulic fittings in one, and a 20-foot 3/8” chain and clevises in the other. My usual configuration is the grapple on front and the box blade on the back on top of which I keep a t-shaped homemade stump puller to use with the chain. I modified my 3p tow bar to fit on the QH so I can swap pretty quickly if needed. I still need to modify my subsoiler so it will fit on the WH as well.
How much weight can those plastic culvert pipes support?
I don’t know exactly, but they’re double walled state DOT standard.How much weight can those plastic culvert pipes support?
They are very strong, but the backfill requirement should include stabilized sand or concrete. In our county, we just have to pay for the culverts and materials(stabilize & base rock) the county sends out a crew and the county installs it at no additional costs.How much weight can those plastic culvert pipes support?
So dropping one in and covering it with 6-8" of RAP would be totally sufficient for a 1 ton truck or tractorI don’t know exactly, but they’re double walled state DOT standard.
12 years ago we installed same culvert pipe, except 12” instead of 18”, in the same area.
The first load of gravel was delivered in a tri-axle grossing around 68,000lbs.
There were some tire tracks in the back fill, but culvert itself was not affected.
@The Evil Twin - I have a similar 24" pipe put in by my village. Installation is quite close to the job @beckmurph did.How much weight can those plastic culvert pipes support?
Best to cover with a sand like, somewhat fine, material to distribute the pressure evenly around, and on top of the pipe.So dropping one in and covering it with 6-8" of RAP would be totally sufficient for a 1 ton truck or tractor
I basically want a "maintenance entrance" on the far side of our property. The land is cut in half by a creek with banks too high to scale. Unless I used the tractor to create a crossing. Don't really want to do that.
If it were a primary entrance, I probably would. It's just to get across the ditch that's maybe 14" deep so i can get into the woods a couple times a year. The RAP has a lot of pea gravel and smaller. Down to fines. The driveway is nearly like asphalt after a year. I think it'll be fine.Best to cover with a sand like, somewhat fine, material to distribute the pressure evenly around, and on top of the pipe.
Good to add some inches of moderately coarse material, after actually covering the pipe.
I am not familiar with your "RAP" term, but your description of it seems fine.If it were a primary entrance, I probably would. It's just to get across the ditch that's maybe 14" deep so i can get into the woods a couple times a year. The RAP has a lot of pea gravel and smaller. Down to fines. The driveway is nearly like asphalt after a year. I think it'll be fine.
Sorry. Recycled Asphalt Pavement / millings. Same pig with different lipstick.I am not familiar with your "RAP" term, but your description of it seems fine.
GREAT stuff!Sorry. Recycled Asphalt Pavement / millings. Same pig with different lipstick.
You ain't kidding. Best around here is $9 / ton with a full load. I have used the guy for millings, gravel and fill so he gives pretty good prices. Plus, he lives in the area so he drops it on the way home. Less fuel and travel time.GREAT stuff!
Wish I could get it at a realistic price.
A lot cheaper than crusher run or rock waste, which is what I used to cross one drainage ditch on my property. I have clay soil so one got put in the second ditch with just the clay which was very dry and crumbled nicely when I set the culvert. The biggest objective is to make sure you pack as you fill, unless you use sand/crusher/millings which will self-pack. The dirt is what's supporting anything that goes over the culvert. The culvert just makes a hole for water to get through. The double wall is to keep the inside of the culvert smooth so that silt/sand don't settle in the corrugations and give roots a place to get started which will lead to the culvert getting plugged up.You ain't kidding. Best around here is $9 / ton with a full load. I have used the guy for millings, gravel and fill so he gives pretty good prices. Plus, he lives in the area so he drops it on the way home. Less fuel and travel time.
Yeah man. Probably going to do the original driveway in millings also. Right now it's half n half. The wife isn't too keen on the non uniform color Another thought is to tar n chip it. That will unify the color, but have a legitimate solid surface in front of the house/ main garage. We have so much road work towards the city that RAP is a very economical way to go. And it's usually got so much binder in it that it self hardens for the most part.A lot cheaper than crusher run or rock waste, which is what I used to cross one drainage ditch on my property. I have clay soil so one got put in the second ditch with just the clay which was very dry and crumbled nicely when I set the culvert. The biggest objective is to make sure you pack as you fill, unless you use sand/crusher/millings which will self-pack. The dirt is what's supporting anything that goes over the culvert. The culvert just makes a hole for water to get through. The double wall is to keep the inside of the culvert smooth so that silt/sand don't settle in the corrugations and give roots a place to get started which will lead to the culvert getting plugged up.
I'm about to test my theories about the strength of the culvert in a couple weeks. I put the culvert in shortly after I bought the LX, and its been holding up beautifully since. Having 4 trees taken down behind my shop, and the tree service is bringing in a monster to take them down in chunks. Sorta like the giant tree cutters, but just a straight boom on a machine similar to an industrial crane. I'm hoping to get a few saw logs out of all of it.
"or if I need some silly permit"Yeah man. Probably going to do the original driveway in millings also. Right now it's half n half. The wife isn't too keen on the non uniform color Another thought is to tar n chip it. That will unify the color, but have a legitimate solid surface in front of the house/ main garage. We have so much road work towards the city that RAP is a very economical way to go. And it's usually got so much binder in it that it self hardens for the most part.
Guess I should call the county to see if I can just do it, or if I need some silly permit.