lol, higher than I've ever been! Our radio club put up a 160' of Rohn 45, 40 years ago and I got to see the view from that
What did you do to or on your Kubota today?
- Thread starter gurn
- Start date
Not only was the tower 200' tall, it was on top of one of the highest ridges in our area. I could probably see for 20 miles up there on a crisp late-spring day. Of course, I was somewhat dehydrated, VERY sunburnt, and completely exhausted from installing the last 100 feet of tower, a 10m quad-yag, and a 2m omni (that nearly killed me because it's owner forgot to unplug it from the ungrounded extension cord before hoisting the antenna to me). But otherwise, it was a very fun day. Hanging around with all my radio buds was ALWAYS a fun day.lol, higher than I've ever been! Our radio club put up a 160' of Rohn 45, 40 years ago and I got to see the view from that
slamin81
Member
Equipment
KUBOTA B2301, LANDPRIDE RCR1248, LANDPRIDE RB1560, LANDPRIDE GRAPPLE SGC0660
slamin81
Member
Equipment
KUBOTA B2301, LANDPRIDE RCR1248, LANDPRIDE RB1560, LANDPRIDE GRAPPLE SGC0660
Small upgrade, but upgrade none the less haha, paid an extra .99 for the led light version lmao
Looks good. Probably a lot quieter than the two metal .50 cal boxes I mounted on my ROPS. I keep a bare minimum of tools and a rag to wipe off the hydraulic fittings in one, and a 20-foot 3/8” chain and clevises in the other. My usual configuration is the grapple on front and the box blade on the back on top of which I keep a t-shaped homemade stump puller to use with the chain. I modified my 3p tow bar to fit on the QH so I can swap pretty quickly if needed. I still need to modify my subsoiler so it will fit on the WH as well.
I have a 20mm metal ammo case too, but the top isn’t hinged on it (snap latches both ends). It would be pretty handy if I could figure out a place to mount it.
I helped my cousin install a culvert and create a driveway.
Gravel had to be put off till next month.
Gravel had to be put off till next month.
I don’t know exactly, but they’re double walled state DOT standard.
12 years ago we installed same culvert pipe, except 12” instead of 18”, in the same area.
The first load of gravel was delivered in a tri-axle grossing around 68,000lbs.
There were some tire tracks in the back fill, but culvert itself was not affected.
Siesta Sundance
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L305DT, MX 5200, SVL 75-2, (Sold M7060))
They are very strong, but the backfill requirement should include stabilized sand or concrete. In our county, we just have to pay for the culverts and materials(stabilize & base rock) the county sends out a crew and the county installs it at no additional costs.
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62mph winds here last night; power flickered 4x and then went down for good (we're now on the ~18th hour of genset power...).
My neighbor's tree took out the power; after it was determined the breaker up the street was open (= downed lines inert) my orange machinery* and I helped to clean up the road and remove the downed tree from where the repair crew will need access. First legit night tractoring; wished for ROPS-mounted LEDs!
*Kubota L3940+Stihl MS261C
My neighbor's tree took out the power; after it was determined the breaker up the street was open (= downed lines inert) my orange machinery* and I helped to clean up the road and remove the downed tree from where the repair crew will need access. First legit night tractoring; wished for ROPS-mounted LEDs!
*Kubota L3940+Stihl MS261C
So dropping one in and covering it with 6-8" of RAP would be totally sufficient for a 1 ton truck or tractor
I basically want a "maintenance entrance" on the far side of our property. The land is cut in half by a creek with banks too high to scale. Unless I used the tractor to create a crossing. Don't really want to do that.
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
@The Evil Twin - I have a similar 24" pipe put in by my village. Installation is quite close to the job @beckmurph did.
I don't know rating, but it's had 20+ loads of 15 yards of stone, several concrete trucks and even a concrete pump truck on it without issue.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Best to cover with a sand like, somewhat fine, material to distribute the pressure evenly around, and on top of the pipe.So dropping one in and covering it with 6-8" of RAP would be totally sufficient for a 1 ton truck or tractor
I basically want a "maintenance entrance" on the far side of our property. The land is cut in half by a creek with banks too high to scale. Unless I used the tractor to create a crossing. Don't really want to do that.
Good to add some inches of moderately coarse material, after actually covering the pipe.
If it were a primary entrance, I probably would. It's just to get across the ditch that's maybe 14" deep so i can get into the woods a couple times a year. The RAP has a lot of pea gravel and smaller. Down to fines. The driveway is nearly like asphalt after a year. I think it'll be fine.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I am not familiar with your "RAP" term, but your description of it seems fine.
Sorry. Recycled Asphalt Pavement / millings. Same pig with different lipstick.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
You ain't kidding. Best around here is $9 / ton with a full load. I have used the guy for millings, gravel and fill so he gives pretty good prices. Plus, he lives in the area so he drops it on the way home. Less fuel and travel time.
A lot cheaper than crusher run or rock waste, which is what I used to cross one drainage ditch on my property. I have clay soil so one got put in the second ditch with just the clay which was very dry and crumbled nicely when I set the culvert. The biggest objective is to make sure you pack as you fill, unless you use sand/crusher/millings which will self-pack. The dirt is what's supporting anything that goes over the culvert. The culvert just makes a hole for water to get through. The double wall is to keep the inside of the culvert smooth so that silt/sand don't settle in the corrugations and give roots a place to get started which will lead to the culvert getting plugged up.
I'm about to test my theories about the strength of the culvert in a couple weeks. I put the culvert in shortly after I bought the LX, and its been holding up beautifully since. Having 4 trees taken down behind my shop, and the tree service is bringing in a monster to take them down in chunks. Sorta like the giant tree cutters, but just a straight boom on a machine similar to an industrial crane. I'm hoping to get a few saw logs out of all of it.