What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

[The Evil Twin]

A lot cheaper than crusher run or rock waste, which is what I used to cross one drainage ditch on my property. I have clay soil so one got put in the second ditch with just the clay which was very dry and crumbled nicely when I set the culvert. The biggest objective is to make sure you pack as you fill, unless you use sand/crusher/millings which will self-pack. The dirt is what's supporting anything that goes over the culvert. The culvert just makes a hole for water to get through. The double wall is to keep the inside of the culvert smooth so that silt/sand don't settle in the corrugations and give roots a place to get started which will lead to the culvert getting plugged up.

I'm about to test my theories about the strength of the culvert in a couple weeks. I put the culvert in shortly after I bought the LX, and its been holding up beautifully since. Having 4 trees taken down behind my shop, and the tree service is bringing in a monster to take them down in chunks. Sorta like the giant tree cutters, but just a straight boom on a machine similar to an industrial crane. I'm hoping to get a few saw logs out of all of it.

Yeah man. Probably going to do the original driveway in millings also. Right now it's half n half. The wife isn't too keen on the non uniform color Another thought is to tar n chip it. That will unify the color, but have a legitimate solid surface in front of the house/ main garage. We have so much road work towards the city that RAP is a very economical way to go. And it's usually got so much binder in it that it self hardens for the most part.
Guess I should call the county to see if I can just do it, or if I need some silly permit.

 

[fried1765]

Yeah man. Probably going to do the original driveway in millings also. Right now it's half n half. The wife isn't too keen on the non uniform color Another thought is to tar n chip it. That will unify the color, but have a legitimate solid surface in front of the house/ main garage. We have so much road work towards the city that RAP is a very economical way to go. And it's usually got so much binder in it that it self hardens for the most part.
Guess I should call the county to see if I can just do it, or if I need some silly permit.

"or if I need some silly permit"
It is most always best to ask for forgiveness, than it is to ask for permission!

 

[The Evil Twin]

"or if I need some silly permit"
It is most always best to ask for forgiveness, than it is to ask for permission!

I tend not to ask questions that I don't want to know the answer to.
Like when we moved. I didn't ask if we need a county dog license.

 

[Fleshwound]

I welded some chain hooks and a 2” receiver. Came in handy moving this fell tree.

 

[Old_Paint]

Yeah man. Probably going to do the original driveway in millings also. Right now it's half n half. The wife isn't too keen on the non uniform color Another thought is to tar n chip it. That will unify the color, but have a legitimate solid surface in front of the house/ main garage. We have so much road work towards the city that RAP is a very economical way to go. And it's usually got so much binder in it that it self hardens for the most part.
Guess I should call the county to see if I can just do it, or if I need some silly permit.

If you’re on the ROW, better get permission because forgiveness is not an option with most governments. You’ll be connecting a driveway to a county road, so most likely some zoning rules will apply. If they’re friendly enough, though, they might say go for it. Normally, a county ROW is 30 feet from the center any 2-lane road, and 20 for single track, but your mileage may vary. The easiest and smartest thing to do is just ask ‘em. That way you don’t have to worry about fines later, I’d make sure I got the permit in writing.

 

[ctfjr]

Today We got to pull up the 4th 10' section of my soon to be 60' tower. My son was on the Kubota letting it do all the hard pulling It's great that it can really creep slowly, allows time to see a problem developing.

After it was up I attached the guy wires (actually non metallic) to the bracket at the top. I had temporary guys on at the 30' level. Will feel much better when these are attached to the I beam anchors and tensioned properly. Then the next two sections will be really easy.

I find it amazing, now that I am retired, that its hard to fine time to put into this project

 

[Bearcatrp]

Moved broken trees to the pile from the storm that nail us a couple days ago. The forks paid for it’s self today. Saved my back. Wish someone made a mini grapple for the BX line of tractors.

 

[JimL126]

Picked up a gently used LP RTA1258 tiller last weekend. Installed Pat’s Quick Hitch today, lubed the tiller and topped up its fluids. Tilled our 65’ x 65’ soon to be garden. Broke it up first with tines on my box blade both directions, then tilled both directions. It black clay so somewhat like tilling a paved street right now. Next step will be 40 or 50 yds of good compost.

 

[The Evil Twin]

If you’re on the ROW, better get permission because forgiveness is not an option with most governments. You’ll be connecting a driveway to a county road, so most likely some zoning rules will apply. If they’re friendly enough, though, they might say go for it. Normally, a county ROW is 30 feet from the center any 2-lane road, and 20 for single track, but your mileage may vary. The easiest and smartest thing to do is just ask ‘em. That way you don’t have to worry about fines later, I’d make sure I got the permit in writing.

While it is a state road (90% are here), all I'm doing is gaining access to the back 40. There is nothing there but woods. Not connecting a driveway. We live on the other side. I just want to be able to get the tractor (maybe truck) in there to maintain trails. Even remove dead trees that are at risk of falling onto the state road.
Edit- just figured out a solution. I'll buy a used pipe and cover it with old crusher run from the driveway. Then act like it's always been there

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Hauled the flail mower to the mow zone and unloaded it, almost rolling the tractor in the process. Fortunately I was slowly creeping along and was able to lower the FEL in time. Put the chipper on the back for ballast and plucked the mower off the trailer.

 

[fried1765]

While it is a state road (90% are here), all I'm doing is gaining access to the back 40. There is nothing there but woods. Not connecting a driveway. We live on the other side. I just want to be able to get the tractor (maybe truck) in there to maintain trails. Even remove dead trees that are at risk of falling onto the state road.
Edit- just figured out a solution. I'll buy a used pipe and cover it with old crusher run from the driveway. Then act like it's always been there

A good plan!

 

[lynnmor]

Moved broken trees to the pile from the storm that nail us a couple days ago. The forks paid for it’s self today. Saved my back. Wish someone made a mini grapple for the BX line of tractors.

Search for 12 volt grapple.

 

[lynnmor]

While it is a state road (90% are here), all I'm doing is gaining access to the back 40. There is nothing there but woods. Not connecting a driveway. We live on the other side. I just want to be able to get the tractor (maybe truck) in there to maintain trails. Even remove dead trees that are at risk of falling onto the state road.
Edit- just figured out a solution. I'll buy a used pipe and cover it with old crusher run from the driveway. Then act like it's always been there

Sounds like you are providing access to your tree FARM. There may be exceptions for agricultural use.

 

[Old_Paint]

Hauled the flail mower to the mow zone and unloaded it, almost rolling the tractor in the process. Fortunately I was slowly creeping along and was able to lower the FEL in time. Put the chipper on the back for ballast and plucked the mower off the trailer.

View attachment 136300

View attachment 136301

I take it your tailgate won't come off your trailer? Lifting something that heavy that high is NEVER a good thing. I remember off-loading my WC-68 chipper. Nearly pinched a hole in the seat of my LX when I felt the rear tires come off the ground. Heaviest thing I had for ballast at the time was the box blade. Fortunately, the WC-68 was nearly on the ground when that happened, and actually sat down very gently. As I lowered it on my cheapo clamp-on forks, the boom of the FEL put it that little bit farther in front of the front axle and started tipping the tractor up on the front axle when I started slowing down the lowering. I was about a foot from the ground as the back end of the tractor started up. I had put the box blade as low as I could without it touching, so that kept the ballast down low, too, meaning it didn't tilt to either side at all. As you say, I got lucky that it didn't start that before I got close to the ground. Now if I'm picking up something really heavy, I put the WC-68 on there, about 500 pounds more than my box blade. Between the chipper and the loaded tires, I run out of lift before I tip it up on the front axle now.

 

[Siesta Sundance]

Since my boy's are off to college, the Oranges have to step up to help me even more.

SHOP Upgrades! With Nice Heavy Duty Pallet Shelving

youtube.com

BTW, when the weather app says it feels like 101* in the shade, it's damn accurate too. I finished around noon.
Everything in the shop was 99 tp 101*

 

[dirtydeed]

Well, since I'm no longer digging for the plumbing company (company sold) I need to find some other "work" for the machines.

Took off early this afternoon and started on my long overdue range renovation. My backstop logs were pretty shot up and punky so, I need to find some more logs. No Problem.

Tree 1 - this one had a significant back lean. I used all of my felling wedges and one BIG Splitting Wedge to force it over. I knew that I couldn't take any more from the hinge. I didn't panic, but I was quite concerned.

Cut the two dead backstop trees...

Sketchy, but it should work for the notch cuts...

Down.

View from the top of the backstop.

More trees to go and cleanup tomorrow.

 

[Mak65]

Well, it wasn’t to or on my Kubota but I made the final payment on its 45-acre home today.

 

[D2Cat]

Well, it wasn’t to or on my Kubota but I made the final payment on its 45-acre home today.

Congratulation! Nice milestone.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

I take it your tailgate won't come off your trailer? Lifting something that heavy that high is NEVER a good thing.

The tailgate comes off, as do the front side panels (which I took off when loading the mower with a fork truck), but this was by far the least effort...and I wanted to get it unloaded and under cover before the rain hit and/or mosques sucked me dry.

All was "reasonable" until the ground under the tractor changed pitch a bit at which point the load shifted and changed the balance point causing the left rear wheel to slowly come up. I leaned left and stretched back around the seat stopping the imbalance from worsening, then lowered the load.

Even with counter-balance I was sweating it after unloading and driving the flail mower strapped to the bucket across the changing terrain. I certainly appreciate the posts saying how tippy tractors are and to consider getting wheel spacers.

I volunteered to landscape residents personal gardens at the Senior Living Center so unpacking the mower is on hold for now.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

Well, it wasn’t to or on my Kubota but I made the final payment on its 45-acre home today.

Congratulations. Is it new purchase or just paid off? What do you plan to do with the place now (anything new?)?