Joe, having never brazed before,...... this fix will certainly be a stretch.Joe
* Are you sure the water jacket is intact? Wasn't cracked or broken when the main hole was made?
* A propane torch by itself won't be adequate to braze that, but it might be useful to maintain the preheat and slow the cool-down. I'm thinking you're going to need help with this.
* I'd use a piece of steel, 1/8" or so thick. Cup it if necessary. Grind out the hole to get rid of any spider cracks and sharp corners. Fit the patch to the hole as closely as possible before brazing.
yes I am listening - grind the hole edges and get rid of the sharp corners, get 1/8 inch steel, cut it the size of the hole, hammer on it and get it the general shape of the area it is covering. Then I am getting a nickel rod and I will melt the rod on the edges of the steel patch and fuse it to the block* I'd use a piece of steel, 1/8" or so thick. Cup it if necessary. Grind out the hole to get rid of any spider cracks and sharp corners. Fit the patch to the hole as closely as possible before brazing.
Thank you for answering my question. Ok, I need to figure out the brazing gas. How about that yellow tank, I think it is called MAPP gas. Maybe that gas is good enough for brazing?A propane torch by itself won't be adequate to braze that
You don't say? Well true to his motto he must have "figured that out" and is doing better in that department than the brain trust.If you note Joe's "floor", he does not need to use Oil-Dri.
While I agree duck tape and bondo is good enough for patching hole, I think you make the JB Weld fix sound easier than it actually is. It's gonna require time and patience honing with a rat tail file then polishing with graduated grits of wet or dry sandpaper. All and all doable but it will require a heap of "figuring out" to make that pile of parts into a single intact unit.Little bit of duck tape and bondo fix that hole up quick. Probably fix the crank also with jb weld
With a bearing scraper you could fit the bearing to the crank as long ad you dont turn it. Plywood and drywall screws could make that block new. Or plexiglass so you could see the rod climb out again as it happens. Or check the dirt to oil ratio.While I agree duck tape and bondo is good enough for patching hole, I think you make the JB Weld fix sound easier than it actually is. It's gonna require time and patience honing with a rat tail file then polishing with graduated grits of wet or dry sandpaper. All and all doable but it will require a heap of "figuring out" to make that pile of parts into a single intact unit.
Holy mackerel King Fish THAT'S nothing short of genius !With a bearing scraper you could fit the bearing to the crank as long ad you dont turn it. Plywood and drywall screws could make that block new. Or plexiglass so you could see the rod climb out again as it happens. Or check the dirt to oil ratio.
What is wrong with Corvairs? They only leak oil to mark their parking spaces.Holy mackerel King Fish THAT'S nothing short of genius !
Some of these guys never cease to amaze me with their knowledge and willingness in sharing with folks they never met but this window thingy is on a different level. Granted RW scissors' endeavors could be said to be for the ,,,,,aheem,,,,shall we say "adventurous" or some might say self destructive but non the less valuable contributions for those into such.
Plexiglass window in crankcase. Stop for a minute and consider had GM included that idea on Corvairs and Vegas, just to name a couple. Take the 6.0L Ford diesel,once root problems were realized the fixes were inexpensive and permanent. In retrospect had engineers been able to look inside 6.0L the problems would be obvious right away and saved FMC billions $$$$$$. If John Force's pit was able to peer inside motors,think of the game changing decisions the pit could make.
Oleracer you best get in line at patent office before some scallywagsteals this idea.
@RalphNaderWhat is wrong with Corvairs?
Corvars are reported to be: "Unsafe at any speed"!@RalphNader
That information is from a man who never had a drivers license his whole life. Would you trust anyone who claims to be an expert and writes a book without any first hand knowledge of the subject that he is writing about? Also, lets not forget that the Department of Transportation exonerated the Corvair after an extensive investigation and declared that it was as safe as any other car of its era.Corvars are reported to be: "Unsafe at any speed"!
Today in Corvair history...(July 20, 1972) - We celebrate the 52nd Anniversary date when the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) exonerated the Corvair (thus proving Ralph Nader wrong) when it published its report findings after a two year investigation of the 1960-63 Corvair. The report concluded: "The handling and stability performance of the 1960-1963 Corvair does not result in an abnormal potential for loss of control or rollover and it is at least as good as the performance of some contemporary vehicles, both foreign and domestic." Picture was taken in front of Ralph Nader's American Museum of Tort Law.
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Considering what you have to work with, I would say you are doing great. I hope this turns out well.Hit the block with abrasives, first cleaning
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Before cleaning: stuck on gaskets all over, lower ports clogged, head has gluey substances/gunk buildup...
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Stuck on gaskets, gunk buildup, etc
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Used a brush and applied diesel to the engine block
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container of diesel: dip whatever abrasive being used in here frequently: wire wheels, nylon strip disc, window scraper
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First wash: still need to hit it real hard at the bottom to get rid of the buildup, go through all the ports with a pik and clear them
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top of block looking smooth, got rid of the stuck gasket on this side, still gonna get hit again with abrasives
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This side looking cleaner, still has some stuck on gasket material, hit it again with nylon stripping disc
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The hole in the block, still preparing the brazing repair
Now: hit the gears/pistons/camshaft/clutch/bell housing/the bolts with wire wheels and other abrasives, and go through the engine again with abrasives, hit the cylinders with wire wheel, get rid of all stuck on gasket material