What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

River19

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B2601, RB1560, BB1260 and BX2830 blower
Sep 10, 2020
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Well we are just settling into new digs and the tractor has been great for moving boxes from the regular garage to the one in the basement on the other side of the house. Because we have to traverse part of the lawn to get there, the weather has limited the number of moving days.

One issue that looks like serious tractor time is in the rear yard.
View attachment 101524

Just past where the grass stops and the woods starts is a swale of sorts. The PO told me it gets wet there when there is a lot of rain. We have had plenty of rain this past week. You can see where I ventured into it yesterday to start clearing. Now its a mud wrestling pit.

There isn't real running water there - it just kind of walking water :) slowly moving from left to right for several hundred feet. I'm thinking of piping and covering at least 50-100 feet so the dogs can have a fenced in area going deep into the woods. It would also allow me to take the tractor back there.

I'm not sure what an economical pipe solution looks like. There would be ~18" of material covering in where the tractor traveled. For the unpiped area would 4" rock fill work to keep it from getting muddy? Is that 'rubber' piping strong enough?

Perhaps a French Drain situation would work well........our 4.5 acre lot is in a hollow of sort with a slope from one side to the other......the builder did a nice job with drainage however there was still work to be done. Winter melt and heavy rains caused water to roll down the slopes and pool in and under the driveway making it mushy etc. Maybe 2 years ago or so I dug an 80' trench along that hill adjacent to the driveway and buried a PVC drainage pipe and put the silt condom sleeve on it and then covered it with crushed stone...........been working like a charm and I smile when I see water gushing out the pipe into our drainage ditch and conduit......it was relatively cheap........
 
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radas

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2022 LX2610HST, 3rd Function, Rear Remotes, BH77
Mar 21, 2022
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You’d think they could at least give you like the next service filters and a hat. That wouldn’t cost them much, and it’d be a nice token gesture.
Got a call from my dealer, Kubota warrantied the loader mount and paid them out 1 hour labor to install. The dealer is cutting me a check for the labor since I'm doing the install solo. Better than nothing and a good gesture from the dealer to pass it along to me.
 
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Magicman

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IMG_3966.JPG

I realize that is a mighty big tractor for those bitty bitty limbs but a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.
 
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River19

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B2601, RB1560, BB1260 and BX2830 blower
Sep 10, 2020
327
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NH/VT NEK
View attachment 101597
I realize that is a mighty big tractor for those bitty bitty limbs but a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.
No judgement here.

We all have very expensive wheel barrows and exercising them with light lifting tasks to keep them lubed up and ready for real work is the prudent thing to do........at least that is what I tell myself.
 
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Old_Paint

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I know some say not to do this, but I had to use the 3pt to tow for the last couple hours, and dang, the tractor almost stalled when I was making the climb up the hill in low gear, 4wd, and rear diff locked. I know the near stall was my fault, I was only running 2100rpm, should have been at 2600/2700 and on the rough sections on the hill I could hear the 3pt links swaying/clinking.
Going uphill isn't usually a problem. It's when you start downhill with a loaded trailer and it pushes the 3 point up and lifts the back tires when it gets a bit puckerish. I pull my little yard trailer around with the 3 point all the time, but never have enough load on it to worry about it pushing the tractor around. The trailer frame was designed for a 10 foot aluminum boat, so you can guess I'm not gonna load it very heavy before I cause some problems. I can put a half yard of dirt in it, but mostly use it to haul leaf waste in the fall/winter. Then, the 3 point is real handy for tilting it back to unload it. If I use the LX to move the big trailer, it's so tongue heavy I never worry about it pushing up, especially when it's empty, which it always is if I'm moving it with the tractor.

Towing a heavy load with the 3 point is not something I would do, though, no. For the most part, my tractor is always heavier than anything I'm moving with it, so even if the 3 point does raise up, it isn't gonna do much more than remind me of why we don't do that with a heavy load. If I know I'm moving something heavy, I raise the QH outta the way and use the draw bar. The problem is that it's so low that the jack on the tongue of my big trailer will drag occasionally. That can be worse than being pushed by the trailer. I've replaced more than one jack, and don't find the expense the least bit amusing.
 

ve9aa

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TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
Apr 11, 2021
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FOR my tractor, not ON my tractor 🚜
Bought oil & hyd fluid filters and 2 jugs of UDT.🥃

Holy Canolies....o_O.....$142 :devilish:Canackubux.:oops:
 

fried1765

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Nov 14, 2019
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FOR my tractor, not ON my tractor 🚜
Bought oil & hyd fluid filters and 2 jugs of UDT.🥃

Holy Canolies....o_O.....$142 :devilish:Canackubux.:oops:
It coulda been worse!
5 gal. of SUDT-2 at Messick's is $137.86 USD = $183 loonies + NB HST of 15% = $210.80 loonies.
Just for a 5 US gal. pail of SUDT-2.
Then too, price is likely even higher in Canada than at Messick's.
 

mcmxi

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Going uphill isn't usually a problem. It's when you start downhill with a loaded trailer and it pushes the 3 point up and lifts the back tires when it gets a bit puckerish.

...so even if the 3 point does raise up, it isn't gonna do much more than remind me of why we don't do that with a heavy load.
I use the 3-point to tow trailers on a regular basis, both with the M6060 and MX6000. I use the KingKutter receiver shown below and run a chain from near the top pin to a shackle on the draw bar to prevent the 3-point from lifting up more than I want.

m6060_king_kutter.jpg
 
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Old_Paint

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I use the 3-point to tow trailers on a regular basis, both with the M6060 and MX6000. I use the KingKutter receiver shown below and run a chain from near the top pin to a shackle on the draw bar to prevent the 3-point from lifting up more than I want.

View attachment 101609
Perfect solution. Anything to keep that hitch point below the rear axle so it doesn't take the weight off the rear tires. Loading the trailer toward the front is a good idea, too. It's gunna take a woppin' big trailer and load to push a 6060 or 6000 around, but still a perfect solution.

I like your KK hitch. The one I had wasn't QH compatible, so I had to make a few mods to it. Sure is nice to not have to pull the QH to move the trailers. I need to get a clevis for my draw-bar and copy your technique now that I've modded the 3P hitch. I don't need the trailer ball in the drawbar anymore now, especially if I do the same as your photo.

Still, the tires do grip better in the forward direction (pulling) than they do in reverse [by design, of course], which can still lead to a break-away and jackknife on a particularly steep slope. They are not designed for sideways traction at all. I've had 'nekked' tractors slide sideways in the right soil conditions (wet clay) for no apparent reason other than a tiny bit of slope to one side. A trailer will QUICKLY aggravate that going down hill. But that could happen just as easily with the trailer connected to the drawbar, and has little to do with the COG. It has more to do with traction. The trick is to make sure to keep the tractor in front of the trailer, and the tongue below the rear axle. That may mean going a bit faster than you wanted to, so it's best to start off down a steep slope REALLY slow to begin with. It's a tractor, not a race car.

I pulled hundreds of trailer loads of green firewood in a trailer behind a Cub Farmall which while empty probably weighed twice what the Cub Farmall WITH wheel weights did. The trailer had a steel frame made with 3-inch angle and 3" well casing for a tongue, 1/4 inch thick stainless steel sides and bottom, and had pretty good size truck springs under it. That thing was STOOPID heavy. My step-dad built it while working at Brookley AFB in the early 60's, and his worst omission was a tongue jack. The tongue weight on it was almost more than I could lift to hitch, (and probably couldn't now) so that was actually a good thing. I got into some spooky situations with it on more occasions than I care to remember. That thing was HUGE, and what I learned to reverse trailers with. I was never overly concerned if it pushed the back of the Cub to the right a little, but if the back end went left, the pucker factor went up. A Cub will flip to the left in a blink with the offset engine. And there weren't no roll bar nor seatbelt. Just the 'jump' training, which probably saved my life on more than one occasion, too.

We had a rig to connect the top link on the 8N down to the 3-point draw bar to keep the link arms down, and I usually used the 8N if my step-dad cut firewood up on the hill. But that rig was a PITA to put on the 8N, so if I didn't have time to plan for the hauling (told where the wood was when I got off the school bus), I would put the trailer behind our old '46 Willys' MJ-6A and keep it in low range 4x4 with the switch turned off for engine braking. If the RPM got too high, I'd just find a pine tree and stop it, because that old Jeep NEVER had any brakes on it. Wide open in 3rd gear high range was only about 28 mph anyway, so it was geared lower in low range than the tractors were. I could walk faster than it would move in 1st gear low range at redline RPM. Mud ate the brakes up too fast, and we never drove it on the highway, so we never bothered to replace them. He wasn't impressed with me when I exploded the 3rd muffler when I turned the switch back on at the bottom of the hill. Somebody probably played with the throttle a little on the way down the hill and got some unspent fuel into the exhaust, which promptly ignited when the first cylinder fired an exhaust stroke into the manifold. Sounded like a bomb going off. Don't know how that coulda happened. He quit letting me use the Jeep. No sense of humor, I tell ya.
 
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ve9aa

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It coulda been worse!
5 gal. of SUDT-2 at Messick's is $137.86 USD = $183 loonies + NB HST of 15% = $210.80 loonies.
Just for a 5 US gal. pail of SUDT-2.
Then too, price is likely even higher in Canada than at Messick's.
True, but I only bought 2 x 5L jugs which is roughly only ~2.6 US Gal
 

radas

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2022 LX2610HST, 3rd Function, Rear Remotes, BH77
Mar 21, 2022
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Got the loader mount on tonight.

Removing the loader was a little PITA, there was definitely a learning curve to it. Mounting the new loader frame mount took some finessing too since most of the weight is far away from the mounting bracket. Once I got a few bolts in, the rest were easy.

Torqued to spec and mounted my 3rd function valve/bracket and called it a night. Not bad for an hour and a half - two hours of work (shop time calls for an hour). This is the first time I've gotten reimbursed to fix something I own 😂

PXL_20230503_234607414.jpg

PXL_20230504_003102931.jpg
 
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radas

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2022 LX2610HST, 3rd Function, Rear Remotes, BH77
Mar 21, 2022
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Mounted my loader again on the new RH/original LH mount after torquing to spec yesterday. Took a bit of fumbling because my cylinders were slightly misaligned but I managed to figure it out by "bracing" one side against the loader mount and slowly tweaking the other side to make them even before finally wiggling them both into position.
 
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mcmxi

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Perfect solution. Anything to keep that hitch point below the rear axle so it doesn't take the weight off the rear tires. Loading the trailer toward the front is a good idea, too. It's gunna take a woppin' big trailer and load to push a 6060 or 6000 around, but still a perfect solution.

I like your KK hitch. The one I had wasn't QH compatible, so I had to make a few mods to it. Sure is nice to not have to pull the QH to move the trailers. I need to get a clevis for my draw-bar and copy your technique now that I've modded the 3P hitch. I don't need the trailer ball in the drawbar anymore now, especially if I do the same as your photo.
I might end up welding some plates with holes to the back of both Quick Hitches up near the top pin location so that I can secure the chain almost directly above the end of the draw bar which would be the best location.
 

Old_Paint

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Dec 5, 2020
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I might end up welding some plates with holes to the back of both Quick Hitches up near the top pin location so that I can secure the chain almost directly above the end of the draw bar which would be the best location.
I like that idea. Just gotta remember to remove the 'short leash' when ya put the box blade or something else on that needs to go all the way up. Is the rating of the lift why you used such large chain? Pretty stout lift on a little LX. Can't imagine on a 6000 series.