Post your ROPS light mounting pics

[gk527]

For those of you that did light bars, do you wish you would've done two pods on the side?

Those of you that did pods, do you wish you would've done the light bar?

I'm looking for lessons learned from others that have done this.

Right now I'm leaning towards a light bar in the front and a couple pods pointing to the rear.

Also looking for some type of amber/yellow and clear strobe / beacon for when I'm on the road.

 

[Chaentjens]

I did a forward bar then realized couldn't see anything behind me at night so I added the 2 pods out back.

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[gcmiller]

For those of you that did light bars, do you wish you would've done two pods on the side?

Those of you that did pods, do you wish you would've done the light bar?

I'm looking for lessons learned from others that have done this.

Right now I'm leaning towards a light bar in the front and a couple pods pointing to the rear.

Also looking for some type of amber/yellow and clear strobe / beacon for when I'm on the road.

I did a 12 inch light bar in the front and two 4 inch pods in the rear and I have no regrets. That said, I do not think you can wrong either way. The light bar I used was the same price as two of the pods. The light bar puts out more light than two pods, but the pods are not dim by any means. I think the big difference is the bar transmits light in all directions forward, whereas the pods are slightly more focused but not to the point where they are spotlights.

Here is a pic at night with all the lights on, maybe it will help. Notice the light bar in the front is lighting up the trees up high, but the pods don't. Yet both provide plenty of light.

 

[gk527]

I did a 12 inch light bar in the front and two 4 inch pods in the rear and I have no regrets. That said, I do not think you can wrong either way. The light bar I used was the same price as two of the pods. The light bar puts out more light than two pods, but the pods are not dim by any means. I think the big difference is the bar transmits light in all directions forward, whereas the pods are slightly more focused but not to the point where they are spotlights.

Here is a pic at night with all the lights on, maybe it will help. Notice the light bar in the front is lighting up the trees up high, but the pods don't. Yet both provide plenty of light.

Wow!! That does put off a lot of light. I just ordered 4 of the 4-inch Auxbeam flood pods from Amazon. If that doesn't give me what I need I'll add a light bar pointing forward.

 

[gk527]

I took what CFDWheeler had done and tried to emulate that. Didn't turn out as clean as what CFDWheeler did, but I'm happy with it. Used a 20 inch facing forward and a 12 inch facing back and connected them with an amazon special dual lead wiring harness. Mounted the lights on a piece of angle iron I bought at RK and coated them in spray on rubberized undercoating. Bolted the lights and angle iron onto the ROPS using U-Bolts with weather stripping material to protect the ROPS finish. One thing is for sure those cheapo lights at Amazon are BRIGHT.

Which wiring harness did you use? Do you have the Amazon link to it?

 

[ao9488]

MICTUNING HD 300w LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Fuse 40Amp Relay ON-OFF Waterproof Switch(2Lead) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WMPGLYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lilDAbYEXYEHR

This is what I used. Wired one wrong and it burnt up so I ordered another one that wasn't put together the same as the first one. The first one had equal length wires the second one did not, but I made it work. Just a heads up.

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[gk527]

For those of you with switch boxes, can you provide a little more detail on it, please? I really don't want to drill holes in my tractor, not yet anyway. HA!

I'd much rather mount a box on the side of the ROPS somehow that doesn't require drilling and place my switches in there. I found the MICTUNING switch panel that you place the switches in, but what do you put that in?

http://a.co/7RFvMlL

 

[gcmiller]

For those of you with switch boxes, can you provide a little more detail on it, please? I really don't want to drill holes in my tractor, not yet anyway. HA!

I'd much rather mount a box on the side of the ROPS somehow that doesn't require drilling and place my switches in there. I found the MICTUNING switch panel that you place the switches in, but what do you put that in?

I originally built a switch box, but then ended up drilling holes for the switches. The switch box I built was an outdoor, 1 gang electrical box like this one:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BELL-1-...-Weatherproof-Deep-Box-Gray-5385-0B/204208025

I also bought a blank face plate that I drilled holes in for the switches. I painted the box and the face plate black and I was going use black zip ties to strap it to the ROPS. My wiring would be inside conduit that would go in and out of the box. But like I said, I ended up drilling holes for the switches and the box is still sitting on my workbench.

 

[groomerbuck]

Hello. Those square shaped u bolts... the foam padding that's around them. Do some bolts come with that or is that something that can be added? I've been looking online and have been unable to find it.



Thanks!

Its just fuel line i pushed over the u bolts

 

[gk527]

Where'd the foam padding come from on the squared off u bolts?

Where'd the foam padding come from on the squared off u bolts?

 

[groomerbuck]

Where'd the foam padding come from on the squared off u bolts?



Where'd the foam padding come from on the squared off u bolts?

Its not foam padding around the ubolts. Its 3/8 or 1/2” black fuel line. The only foam padding is on the one side of the flat stock the rests against the rops. Thats just weatherstripping

 

[gk527]

Its not foam padding around the ubolts. Its 3/8 or 1/2” black fuel line. The only foam padding is on the one side of the flat stock the rests against the rops. Thats just weatherstripping

Dang... never thought of that.. Thanks for the quick reply!!

 

[groomerbuck]

Dang... never thought of that.. Thanks for the quick reply!!

Haha. No problem bud. Hope I answered your question

 

[gk527]

Haha. No problem bud. Hope I answered your question

You did! I needed something to protect the ROPS. That will do it!

 

[gk527]

Finally got my lights mounted and wired. I used all marine grade wire and connectors with heat shrink.

I ran two 10 gauge wires, one red and one black, from the battery to the back left fender of the tractor. I mounted a fuse block there and connected those two wires to provide both power and ground. The power wire has an inline 30 amp fuse.

I ended up using four Nilight 6.5 inch flood lights. Two pointing forward and two pointing to the rear. I mounted them on some brackets I got from Couper's products.

I used Mictuning wiring harnesses. I ended up cutting the in-line fuse off the harnesses since the fuse block is there. Plus I changed the connectors to use circle #8 connections to match the fuse block.

Now I just need to figure out where to mount the switches.

I know it's overkill, but I just ordered a 13.5 inch Nilight spot LED bar that I'm going to mount between the two LEDs pointing forward.

Nilight 6.5 LED lights
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0SFVCT/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuse block
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000THQ0CQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring harness - 2 lead
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WMPGLYU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nilight 13.5 inch spot LED I just ordered. I'll update pictures when I get it mounted.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019MF1NPE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Couper's LED Light Mounts. I ordered both the light bar mount and the non-rotating ROPS mount.
http://coupersproducts.com/rops-light-mounts/

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[200mph]

GK527,

I'm using the same 6.5" lights and tested the current draw. Each unit consumes 2.06 amps when powered by 12.60 volts. You have plenty of extra capacity with the 10 gauge wire and 30 amp fuse.

I've been very satisfied with the light output these lights. Did you find them deficient another light bar is being added?

 

[gk527]

GK527,



I'm using the same 6.5" lights and tested the current draw. Each unit consumes 2.06 amps when powered by 12.60 volts. You have plenty of extra capacity with the 10 gauge wire and 30 amp fuse.



I've been very satisfied with the light output these lights. Did you find them deficient another light bar is being added?

How did you test them? That’s something I haven’t learned yet. All I did was take the watts/volts=amps calculation.

No these lights are great. I’m just adding the additional LED spot for range since the others are floods. I really don’t need it but I already have the mounts and open spots on the fuse block. Why not. First time I’ve ever done wiring like this. It’s fun! Ha!

Next I might add some single row small lights under the floor pointing to the side. Who knows. I’ve got the bug now to keep modifying.


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[200mph]

How did you test them? That***8217;s something I haven***8217;t learned yet. All I did was take the watts/volts=amps calculation.

Used a power supply, volt meter and of course the lights themselves. I actually test a number of similar LED lamps of the 18, 27 and 36 watt variety.

Set the meter to DC current and adjust test leads to meter accordingly... It's rather simple if you have a common test meter.

Here's a link that demonstrates how to measure amps (not mine). Ironically the youtuber tested 27 watt LED and got the same values as I did in the attachment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xMDWzUPk_w

Hope this helps.

 

[gk527]

Finally got my lights mounted and wired. I used all marine grade wire and connectors with heat shrink.

I ran two 10 gauge wires, one red and one black, from the battery to the back left fender of the tractor. I mounted a fuse block there and connected those two wires to provide both power and ground. The power wire has an inline 30 amp fuse.

I ended up using four Nilight 6.5 inch flood lights. Two pointing forward and two pointing to the rear. I mounted them on some brackets I got from Couper's products.

I used Mictuning wiring harnesses. I ended up cutting the in-line fuse off the harnesses since the fuse block is there. Plus I changed the connectors to use circle #8 connections to match the fuse block.

Now I just need to figure out where to mount the switches.

I know it's overkill, but I just ordered a 13.5 inch Nilight spot LED bar that I'm going to mount between the two LEDs pointing forward.

Nilight 6.5 LED lights
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0SFVCT/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuse block
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000THQ0CQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring harness - 2 lead
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WMPGLYU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nilight 13.5 inch spot LED I just ordered. I'll update pictures when I get it mounted.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019MF1NPE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Couper's LED Light Mounts. I ordered both the light bar mount and the non-rotating ROPS mount.
http://coupersproducts.com/rops-light-mounts/

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I got the switch box mounted and installed this weekend. Didn't have to drill any holes in the fender to mount it. There were two holes in the fender already and drilled holes in the box to match it. Got the box at Lowe's. It's a little big for just two switches, but leaves room for expansions.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-Gray-Weatherproof-PVC-New-Work-Old-Work-Junction-Box/3127463

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[JeepinMaxx]

My temporary set up - I'm keeping the magnet mounts (if they get knocked off it's OK) but my temp wiring to the 12V cigarette lighter outlet is definitely temporary... On my BX2660 - is there factory wiring for auxiliary lights out back that works with the multi-function switch or do I have to tap into tail light wiring? (also - does anyone know the bulb part number for the rear tail lights and hazard lights?)