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You have a computer that controls a solenoid valve. It monitors engine speed and PTO output shaft speed and decides for you if the PTO should be on or not. Does the tach work and all other transmission functions operate correctly? It's a 12 volt solenoid, so I guess you could "hot wire" it and...

So the loader function went dead right after you switched some hoses while removing a backhoe? Don't you think you should revisit the hoses and connections involved with that?

As I see it, with 200 PSI compression (if that's accurate) the engine will never start. Why does it turn over so slow? Starter, battery, cables all come to mind, but maybe it's just too tight. How does it turn by hand? It's not a big engine, it should turn pretty easily. Where did the parts come...

What you're describing could well be loose connections where the wheel center meets the rim. The nuts and bolts maybe tight, but only rusted tight. The joint may still be loose. That noise is usually a clunking sound that's sporadic. Noises coming from gear teeth tend to be more rhythmic and...

I've had one for years. It's as handy as a shirt pocket. If you do "projects", you'll be amazed you got by this long without one.

Steering cylinder piston seals would be a good starting point. Never condemn the valve until you can confirm a problem there.

This is standard OEM two valve stack on M9000. How many different threads can there be? Kubota site only shows one coupler number. 3A111-82010.

So what's your source for these couplers?

Since you're familiar with this seal kit, can you tell me if the main seal is indeed a square type rather than an O ring? That's what it looked like but I didn't remove it for further inspection, just assumed I could get them from Kubota. Doesn't look that way.

So replacing couplers (regardless of price) is the only solution to the leak?

Just wondering what most people use to replace the seals in remote valve couplers if the parts are not listed by Kubota? I'm looking to put new seals in the couplers on an M9000 and see only the coupler unit listed in parts ($225+ each) and no breakdown or anything in the way of related parts...

You do a lot of engine rebuilds?

+ 1 on the chiropractor option. I've suffered from lower back pain (as well as other joints) for many years. Mostly a result of issues with an L5 vertebrae and an associated disc that tends to push out sideways under certain conditions. I've spent days, even weeks in pain from it many times...

And then comes winter. How many days can you go with zero heat?

So when you bleed it, do you start at the filter, then bleed the pump at the lower bleed screw before cracking injector lines and using the starter? Looks to me it should be pretty straight forward and by no means all that hard to start.

That's expensive tubing and worth some effort. I would work on getting it apart rather than replacing it (unless you have a few hundred bucks to spare). Chain it to a tree and tractor. Give it a couple good yanks and see what happens.

There's the right answer. I break the head loose while the cylinder is still on the machine. I never use the "special tools" that fit in the holes. A pipe wrench and if needed, a cheater pipe on that. If you're too picky to put up with a few scratches when you're done, then buy new cylinders...

I don't know how others would do it, but personally, I would start by identifying the existing pump by size, style, and dimensions. Is it a two bolt mount? What size flange? Most two bolt pumps would be A flange or B flange. A flange has 3 1/4" pilot bore with 4 3/16" bolt spacing. B flange...

I doubt bad seals in the steering cylinder would cause that. It doesn't usually work that way. I'd say more likely something wrong on the hydraulic side of the steering circuit, or maybe even something mechanical in the front spindles, but not the cylinder.

"Perhaps he lives in a third world country?" I believe we all do.