What did you do to or on your Kubota today?
- Thread starter gurn
- Start date
Pulled up a bunch of t posts and 10 or so wooden posts that were used for electric fencing from the previous owner in the front pasture. Gotta install 3 gates cause previous owner just the cut barbwire fences and used cattle panels as gates for his sheep.
I threw the previous owners velcro mitten gloves and his rubber boots on the burn pile. I put the PHD on and serviced the gear box and zerks. Gotta get the rusted drive shaft to unfreeze, so I can get that attached. Gonna pull the tractor out of the shop and pour diesel or ATF oil down the shield. J/k about the velcro mittens & boots, but that guy was a bit of a screwball, so it wouldn't surprise me, lol.
I threw the previous owners velcro mitten gloves and his rubber boots on the burn pile. I put the PHD on and serviced the gear box and zerks. Gotta get the rusted drive shaft to unfreeze, so I can get that attached. Gonna pull the tractor out of the shop and pour diesel or ATF oil down the shield. J/k about the velcro mittens & boots, but that guy was a bit of a screwball, so it wouldn't surprise me, lol.
Used forks and carryall to bring some timber down the hill to processing area. Been sitting for 3 years since we cleared for the road. Hardwood lasts a long time. Will start bucking and splitting later this week.
I bought a WC-68 a couple months ago. So far I have been running it on the old 8N as I have the BH77 on the l2501. I just wondered how well your feed roller works. I have done some of the adjustments and I also changed the pump suction hose end for end. That helped some as originally it had a high bend coming out of the tank end. I think that might contribute to it getting some air in the line, maybe it drains back some every time it is off. It should really be a flooded suction. I just think it stalls the roller too easy no matter where I set it for feed rate. I bought another of those type of valves from Summit Hydraulics that is the same but has a relief on it. Hoping to try that and see if it makes a difference. I made a hydraulic ram that runs off the tractor I can flip down and use to raise the roller when it clogs. That works really nice. Take the pto out of gear, flip the device down and raise the feed roller takes only a couple minutes. Going to take some pictures and write a thread on the customization forum but I've been busy with well problem here lately.
Bill
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Very similar, but I think mine may be older.
Bought mine new in 1989.
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
This is kind of a goofy one.
Set up a 10’ diameter, 32” deep pool for the wife this spring. Time to take it down for the year. She preferred to keep a soft cover on it when not in use so had that to deal with as well.
It has a drain plug that’s threaded to mate up with a standard water hose (it’s small). Pulled the plug yesterday evening and chucked the cover out on the grass to dry.
Came back this morning to find the cover was mostly dry on the top side but wet on the underside where it was dry yesterday. Pool had drained to the bottom of the little drain hole, leaving about 3” water in the bottom. 3” doesn’t sound like a lot, but it looked like a lot so I decided to bust out some high school geometry and mathed some math before proceeding. 10’ diameter (60” radius) and 3” depth: 3.14x60x60x3 = 33,912 cu in. According to my convert almost anything to almost anything else app, that’s about 146 US liquid gallons. More of a pump job than shop vac job since I don’t own a super giant shop vac. Thought I’d use the pool’s filter pump. It was not interested in lifting water the approximately 36” to clear the sidewall. Only portable sump pump I have would have gotten it to maybe 1” but that’s still quite a bit left.
Looking at it, I was thinking if there was some way to lift one end and dump it out, that might work. Pool doesn’t weigh much, but 146 gallons of water at 8.14 lb/gal is about 1200lb so I ain’t lifting it. Thought the gaps in the wall support loops might be just wide enough to carefully slide the forks in so gave it a shot and it actually worked. The left fork went in and held with no issue. For some reason, pool frame kept low key trying to slide off the right fork so I blocked its exit with a C clamp and started lifting.
Lifted just enough to get it flowing again. Walked by once in a while to drive forward a little and raise a little more as it kept losing weight. Still had the pool cover to hang out to dry somewhere, so draped it over the back. Shop vacuumed the last 10 gallons out of the pool, by which time the loader was max height. About 4 hours later it was all dry. (About 30 minutes after photos were taken the sun moved to put it all in full sun for the next 8 hours.) Dismantled the frame, folded the pool and cover, and boxed up everything for next year.
I’m aware there’s probably a much better “normal person” procedure for this. I don’t know what it is other than use a pump I don’t have. This worked pretty well. It looked so silly pics were required. No pools or tractors were harmed in this photo shoot.
Set up a 10’ diameter, 32” deep pool for the wife this spring. Time to take it down for the year. She preferred to keep a soft cover on it when not in use so had that to deal with as well.
It has a drain plug that’s threaded to mate up with a standard water hose (it’s small). Pulled the plug yesterday evening and chucked the cover out on the grass to dry.
Came back this morning to find the cover was mostly dry on the top side but wet on the underside where it was dry yesterday. Pool had drained to the bottom of the little drain hole, leaving about 3” water in the bottom. 3” doesn’t sound like a lot, but it looked like a lot so I decided to bust out some high school geometry and mathed some math before proceeding. 10’ diameter (60” radius) and 3” depth: 3.14x60x60x3 = 33,912 cu in. According to my convert almost anything to almost anything else app, that’s about 146 US liquid gallons. More of a pump job than shop vac job since I don’t own a super giant shop vac. Thought I’d use the pool’s filter pump. It was not interested in lifting water the approximately 36” to clear the sidewall. Only portable sump pump I have would have gotten it to maybe 1” but that’s still quite a bit left.
Looking at it, I was thinking if there was some way to lift one end and dump it out, that might work. Pool doesn’t weigh much, but 146 gallons of water at 8.14 lb/gal is about 1200lb so I ain’t lifting it. Thought the gaps in the wall support loops might be just wide enough to carefully slide the forks in so gave it a shot and it actually worked. The left fork went in and held with no issue. For some reason, pool frame kept low key trying to slide off the right fork so I blocked its exit with a C clamp and started lifting.
Lifted just enough to get it flowing again. Walked by once in a while to drive forward a little and raise a little more as it kept losing weight. Still had the pool cover to hang out to dry somewhere, so draped it over the back. Shop vacuumed the last 10 gallons out of the pool, by which time the loader was max height. About 4 hours later it was all dry. (About 30 minutes after photos were taken the sun moved to put it all in full sun for the next 8 hours.) Dismantled the frame, folded the pool and cover, and boxed up everything for next year.
I’m aware there’s probably a much better “normal person” procedure for this. I don’t know what it is other than use a pump I don’t have. This worked pretty well. It looked so silly pics were required. No pools or tractors were harmed in this photo shoot.
Damn, got owls and hawks in the woods behind me. Also got lots of feral cats. Wonder why they don't keep the cat population in check. Wonder if they are on some sort of welfare and don't need to hunt.
dirtydeed
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
Range backstop repair complete. Unfortunately, it was wetter back there than I had hoped. I'll need to do some grass cleanup.
The backstop face logs lasted about 7 years. They got pounded pretty hard and were starting to rot.
Start:
Done...need to fasten some chain to hang my targets
The backstop face logs lasted about 7 years. They got pounded pretty hard and were starting to rot.
Start:
Done...need to fasten some chain to hang my targets
johnjk
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B3200 w/loader, Woods RC5 brush hog, 4' box blade, tooth bar, B1700 MMM,
ajschnitzelbank
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L4701, BH92, Frost Bite grapple, Logosol M8 mill, Stihl MS661
Interesting. Not the way I would have done it I think. But of course I didn’t see the tree or the surroundings. Mostly just because I’m green and don’t know how to rig anything really at all. I would have been afraid the tractor wouldn’t weigh enough. And I would have been really afraid the tree would barberchair. Thanks for posting I love seeing the way people do things, gives me things to think about!
I’ve just finished cutting in firebreaks around the areas we are going to plant long leaf pines on. I have alternated between box blade with rippers, disc harrow, and landscape rake. Happy to have everything on my part done and blessed by the NRCS. Next will be having it burnt in the next 60 days and then planted a few months after that.
This old used Kubota has been good to me and Im sure will be used for other projects soon.
This old used Kubota has been good to me and Im sure will be used for other projects soon.
I haven’t had any stalling issues other than the tractor not being quite large enough for the chipper. Quite the contrary as far as the hydraulic system is concerned. My primary issue is tweaking the safety bar so that it stays engaged, but not so much that it doesn’t release under moderate pressure. I have turned the flow rate nearly off because of HP limits (19 at the PTO). This has also taught me the importance of keeping the knives very sharp and how quickly ’dirty’ material will dull them. I would like it better if the infeed adjustment was closer to the mid range of the valve. As is, like I said, I have it turned nearly off. This chipper would be a monster behind a 50HP tractor. My biggest beef with the infeed is the amount of effort and finagling it takes to get anything over 2” diameter past the roller. The roller simply won’t climb up on larger material, especially green hardwoods unless I cut the ends at a very sharp angle.
Please make sure to keep me posted on your mods. I would love something similar to open the jaws, so to speak. When you say ’clog’ I’m assuming you mean basically overloading the tractor. I find that the feed rate is better left slow for lower HP ranges, which is still far faster than poking stuff in by hand in a 6HP 3” gasser. I call a clog as what happens when the last 4” or so of a large branch gets crossways and the knives slice off large slabs that plug up the chute. That’s always fun to clean out. The amount of reduction in the chute for the swivel joint is a pretty nasty bottleneck, but the distance between the infeed roller and the cutting anvil is the real issue. I find that sharp knives tend to resolve this issue, too.
One mod I have considered is to change the grip edges of the infeed roller to pointed teeth to prevent it slipping off the edge of larger pieces and making the roller ‘hop’ and bang and torture my shoulders trying out muscle the sptings.
The trick is to pull just enough to remove the slack in the rigging, and only enough to make sure the tree doesn’t pinch the bar on the back cut. I.E., nullify the back lean. The primary purpose of the rigging is only to prevent the tree from falling in the unwanted direction. All the rigging goes on before the saw is even started, ergo basically just opposing gravity a little. Then cut the notch, make the back cut leaving enough for a substantial hinge, and as Tony Beets says, “give ‘er”. The snatch block configuration give a 3:1 multiplier for applied force as well as the tensile strength of the rope. The rope will break long before the tractor slips, and that rope is rated for about 600# tensile strength, giving me up to 1800# tensile strength between the anchor and the tree. The whole tree probably wasn’t more than 1000#. The tree was almost vertical, so it probably took less than 100# tension to pull it back over center. The tractor just pulls it better than my arthritic back.
Barber chair happens when there is no relief to hinge the felling and the back cut is made. Cutting below the hinge notch can also cause some very unwanted results. My biggest quandary with felling is whether the notch will be a standard notch, or Humbolt notch. Humbolt notch is handy to kick the trunk off the stump and help the tree land flat for less breakage, as in felling for lumber.
As far as reversing the natural fall of the tree, the only way I know is to pull it, or use a tree jack (which I don’t have). My LX2610SU is nearly 3500# with loaded tires, so yea, I think it’s heavy enough to hold a 600# rope.
Me and the neighbor hired the same tree service to remove some rather large trees from places we didn’t like large trees. He had 16 trees removed, and I had 11 removed. The service showed up with a monster that could easily handle about 40T at 120’ reach, and easily put all the trees on the ground with less noise than a chainsaw. I’m sawmill shopping, so decided to keep as much of the wood as possible, so wound up moving at least 20 logs, some of which were all my little LX wanted. Only one was too much to lift with the FEL, so I dragged it instead. Win-win for the tree service because they only had to mobilize equipment once for two jobs, and for us because we’ve both used them before and got a hefty discount.
Too busy for action pics today, but still have a few logs to move tomorrow. One is at least 20’ long, and probably more than the LX wants. My little LS grapple was nearly too small for some of the logs I moved today but I managed to get them without dropping more than a couple, but several times for one that’s well over 24” diameter and 10’ long. Water oak is HEAVY.
Log pics tomorrow.
Too busy for action pics today, but still have a few logs to move tomorrow. One is at least 20’ long, and probably more than the LX wants. My little LS grapple was nearly too small for some of the logs I moved today but I managed to get them without dropping more than a couple, but several times for one that’s well over 24” diameter and 10’ long. Water oak is HEAVY.
Log pics tomorrow.
Good Morning Old_Paint,
The clogs for me are when as you say a short piece gets rolling around sideways and stops further feeding.
The feed roller issue is it stops spinning and I have to reverse the push bar to get it backed out and try again. It also lacks enough grip at times to overcome a 1/2" branch off a limb that is facing up.
I'm 71 and have arthritis in hands and shoulders too. I found out quickly I have just milliseconds to let go one after I get a feed started to let it go or it is going to jerk and pull to the right.
I have only stalled the 8N a couple times but that is where I have to jack the roller to get the piece out before It can be restarted. That is where I got the idea first using a jack between the blower housing and the roller frame to take the pressure off. I had an old jack left from my 93 ford ranger that fit in there nice and then made the hydraulic device . It could probably be duplicated with a bottle jack laid on its side but it has to be under I think 8". I also modified a extendible windshield brush/scraper to reach into pull the clog pieces out. All done with the chipper stopped obviously.
I will try to get the pictures taken and writeup. Still messing with well issue but that is another story.
Bill
I have a whopping 6 hrs on mine and just finished my first driveway, lol no scold me too bad
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ajschnitzelbank
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L4701, BH92, Frost Bite grapple, Logosol M8 mill, Stihl MS661
Cool, thanks.
The way I’ve dealt with back lean is to use a wedge. Why not do it that way? (This is a genuine question, not trying to challenge your approach!)
The snatch block is simple and works as @Old_Paint is intending. Technically, from a logging standpoint (and most of us are not loggers, myself included) it's mostly ineffective other than the initial stress placed on the tree, which as pointed out can promote barber chairing, though I should stress as @Old_Paint is using the setup so the bar is not pinched it does work:
Generally people pull on a tree to fall it a certain direction (which @Old_Paint is not doing and what I think you're questioning) and in that general case it does not work as the line goes slack as soon as the falling tree outruns the line, which is pretty quickly. The proper way to do this is use two lines, one on each side of the tree at an angle, so as the tree falls both lines guide it the correct direction. Using one line and not realizing how many tons a tree can weigh is the cause of losing control of a tree and it pulling a truck or tractor like a kid's toy as it falls "the wrong way."
If the tree is too big to pull over it can be wedged, jacked, and perhaps also pulled depending on the amount of back-lean, but this is better done with multiple lines and a crank tensioner. A bore cut or plunge cut can be used to help avoid a barber chair, and sometimes strapping or chaining around the trunk is also done depending on the amount of tension.
Also not-quite-yet-somewhat-related to this is the Palm Tree Hinge used to steer trees (youtube link #1) (youtube link #2).
DISCLAIMER: I'm not a logger. I have studied tree falling in-depth and succeeded in several extremely complicated falling cuts, each one being extensively planned and carefully executed, but that does not account for all the weird, unexpected, one-off situations that one should expect when falling trees.