ajschnitzelbank
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L4701, BH92, Frost Bite grapple, Logosol M8 mill, Stihl MS661
Cool, thanks.The trick is to pull just enough to remove the slack in the rigging, and only enough to make sure the tree doesn’t pinch the bar on the back cut. I.E., nullify the back lean. The primary purpose of the rigging is only to prevent the tree from falling in the unwanted direction. All the rigging goes on before the saw is even started, ergo basically just opposing gravity a little. Then cut the notch, make the back cut leaving enough for a substantial hinge, and as Tony Beets says, “give ‘er”. The snatch block configuration give a 3:1 multiplier for applied force as well as the tensile strength of the rope. The rope will break long before the tractor slips, and that rope is rated for about 600# tensile strength, giving me up to 1800# tensile strength between the anchor and the tree. The whole tree probably wasn’t more than 1000#. The tree was almost vertical, so it probably took less than 100# tension to pull it back over center. The tractor just pulls it better than my arthritic back.
Barber chair happens when there is no relief to hinge the felling and the back cut is made. Cutting below the hinge notch can also cause some very unwanted results. My biggest quandary with felling is whether the notch will be a standard notch, or Humbolt notch. Humbolt notch is handy to kick the trunk off the stump and help the tree land flat for less breakage, as in felling for lumber.
As far as reversing the natural fall of the tree, the only way I know is to pull it, or use a tree jack (which I don’t have). My LX2610SU is nearly 3500# with loaded tires, so yea, I think it’s heavy enough to hold a 600# rope.
The way I’ve dealt with back lean is to use a wedge. Why not do it that way? (This is a genuine question, not trying to challenge your approach!)