Thank you for that, a Z bracket with gusseted end would be bulletproof. Here are my two options based on your feedback and @Old_Paint.
What did you do to or on your Kubota today?
- Thread starter gurn
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1-inch lumber (finished) is actually 5/8 (.625). That would drop you down 7/8" from the 1.5" thick lumber. That plus .5 inch from stacked 2x4's would get you a total of 1.375 lower. If you use 1" stuff on the bottom too, it'll drop it another 7/8, for a total of 2.25". Nominal 2" lumber is overkill for most implements a compact tractor can handle. Especially when making pallets. MOST, but not all. A 'small' chipper can weigh quite a bit. My WC-68 is nearly 900 pounds assembled. It takes a pretty stout pallet for that thing, and since it was shipped on a steel one, that's what I used to store it on. I still haven't perfected the caster mounts on it yet, though. If you don't trust 1" (5/8) stuff, then use deck planks on the surfaces. They're listed as 5/4" x 6" which actually comes out to about 1" x 5.5" after they dry out. There's a lotta shrinkage in PT lumber, so don't be surprised if something pulls itself outta whack.
I'm not gonna say that the Z-brackets won't work nor even that they're not a good idea, but you'll need to make sure to put some lag screws in from the side as well as the bottom to prevent the bottom of the Z from flexing, particularly if it's going to carry a heavy load. Rule of thumb with Z-brackets is that if you need a gusset on one side, you need it on the other. Putting the lag screws in from the side makes the cribbing effectively a gusset. If that Z flexes, it will let the swivels get out of plumb. Anyone that's ever been to a grocery store knows that a shopping cart with a bent mount for the swivel casters has a mind of its own, which I have also discovered about my steel pallet that flexes under my chipper. I need a larger angle frame around the outside to prevent some of the flex. It was designed to carry the load of the chipper on two 4" box beams under the pallet surface. I lifted that off the floor with casters, didnt' I? The chipper weighs nearly 900 pounds dressed out. The other problem I see with the Z-brackets is that you'll probably wind up adding a minimum of 6 inches to each end of those pallets. That might or might not be an issue for you. Large casters like those typically have a pretty large swivel radius. Don't forget to round the corners of the brackets too. Your ankles will thank you. Slamming pallets with Z brackets is tricky.
I'm going to mod my pallet for my chipper, and put fixed casters on the front (tractor) end of it. This will stop some of the erratic behavior for the slight flex in the pallet and let me keep the pallet fairly light. The chipper tends to be heaviest toward the front when folded up and also sits forward on the pallet. Two fixed casters will make it a little less maneuverable in small spaces but will also eliminate some of the muscle power it takes to keep it moving in the direction I want it to go. It's a heavy piece of equipment and does a lot of damage if it hits something else in the shop. Having a finger between it and a stationary object is NOT going to end well. It isn't real nice to the lower back trying to change it's mind, either. The pallet rolls beautifully unloaded, so I know I have the casters mounted as straight as I can get them. I just didn't think about how much the pallet flexes. So, back to the drawing board.
I see you have a bolt-on bucket edge of some make. You and I have exactly the same bucket (probably because we both have LX2610s with LA535 loaders), and I see we put our bolt-on hooks in the same place. I think I see clevises hanging under the hooks so I'll guess you also put D-rings under the hooks instead of the blank reinforcement plates. I put my d-rings in the very bottom of the bucket, in the narrow flat surface. Hindsight's 20/20, and I may yet move them under the hooks so I can leave the clevises in them. I can put the blank plates all in one place. I left my hooks with the zinc finish, too. Looks OK to me. That bucket really isn't too heavy. It's about 200 pounds.
I have the BXPanded Piranha tooth bar on my bucket, which required drilling the sides (one hole each). I don't like the way it mounts from the factory, so I'm drilling the bar to match all the holes in the lip and will put bolts in all of them and cut off the side brackets. I killed a Milwaukee cordless drill when I started the mod, and just haven't finished it yet. Do you have taper head bolts in that bar? What size are they, if you don't mind my asking. Countersinking the holes in that tooth bar is not going to be fun. That would give me a lot more metal to hold the bar on and will get rid of some rattle that I hear when I lift the bucket. I do like the aggressive Piranha bar, it just wasn't fit to our buckets very well. I still highly recommend it if you have clay soil like I do. It makes the bucket work a LOT better with the serrated edge. It works pretty darn good for raking too. I drag it to pile up deadfall, roots, and punk so I can push it out of the way. I don't have a grapple (yet), so I make do with what I have. Still a lot better than picking all that crap up by hand.
Magicman
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M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"
Spreading some crushed rock with the U25 in the background.
Getting er done.
The last backdrag.
Bmyers
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Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
Wish I had the mini-ex you have in the background. I don't have lots of projects for one, but sure would be nice to have that in the tool box.
RE: your earlier post, I'm strongly considering the 1x or 5/4 material, will most likely get me the height I need and I don't have to screw around with z brackets. The Z brackets will be cool, but also a PITA and my welder isn't hooked up yet (waiting on Square D QO panel recall work to be completed before I run my 220 for my miller).
On the cutting edge topic, you shouldn't have to countersink the bar. My bar just had square holes laser cut and the bucket/factory cutting edge had the countersunk holes on top to accept lag bolts and locking washers/washers/nuts. I don't know if the countersunk bucket was a new decision by Kubota or if all the factory 54" buckets have this design. I do plan on picking up a pirana before my digging work begins and cutting off the side brackets and drilling the holes in the bottom are a much better idea. Here's a few pictures if it helps along with the part numbers for the factory edge and bolt kit.
This may be a hare-brained idea, especially since I don't understand the original problem. Just remember what you paid for it.
Since you're into metal fab, could you fab U-brackets on each caster and clamp them on the side plates front and rear? Do away with the pallet?
Magicman
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M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"
That U25 is on it's way to earn it's keep this morning. My Son has a "start-up" construction company trenching/boring/plowing fiber optic cables so it will be digging a boring receiving pit this morning.
Hmmm, interesting bar. No such bar was on my bucket (nor suggested by the dealer). I just noticed the existing holes and THOUGHT BXPanded would take advantage of those holes. I was very wrong, and they had no interest in discussing it with me.
I'm assuming the bolts in your kit are carriage bolts since the bar has square holes. That takes a pretty big punch press to press those out, not something I'd ever even want in my shed. It would have very few uses.
The advantage of the countersunk holes will be that a taper head bolt can be used on the bottom and not make grooves when you're back-dragging in soil. Dunno, maybe I'm just picky, because they wouldn't be deep grooves from just the bolts, however fine roots and stuff will catch on a bolt head and accumulate a packed ball of dirt which will make them deeper. Carriage bolts would be better than standard bolts, but I don't have any square drills.
I kinda like the bolts/nuts with the knurled flanges that don't need washers under them. Not sure I can get them in grade 8, though.I'll probably use some 1/2" grade 8 taper heads. Just curious if you know what the length is. I can measure it for total penetration plus nut/washer height, but I'm lazy. Don't want threads sticking out of the nuts that will get chewed up and make them murder to take back off later. Now to find a countersink for 1/2" taper head bolts.......
Apologies! I was mistaken. The factory accessory cutting edge is actually countersunk on the bottom to accept carriage bolts. The nuts are on top of the bucket with the lock washers.Hmmm, interesting bar. No such bar was on my bucket (nor suggested by the dealer). I just noticed the existing holes and THOUGHT BXPanded would take advantage of those holes. I was very wrong, and they had no interest in discussing it with me.
I'm assuming the bolts in your kit are carriage bolts since the bar has square holes. That takes a pretty big punch press to press those out, not something I'd ever even want in my shed. It would have very few uses.
The advantage of the countersunk holes will be that a taper head bolt can be used on the bottom and not make grooves when you're back-dragging in soil. Dunno, maybe I'm just picky, because they wouldn't be deep grooves from just the bolts, however fine roots and stuff will catch on a bolt head and accumulate a packed ball of dirt which will make them deeper. Carriage bolts would be better than standard bolts, but I don't have any square drills.
I'll probably use some 1/2" grade 8 taper heads. Just curious if you know what the length is. I can measure it for total penetration plus nut/washer height, but I'm lazy. Don't want threads sticking out of the nuts that will get chewed up and make them murder to take back off later. Now to find a countersink for 1/2" taper head bolts.......
Honestly, I'd set your pirana bar under your bucket, mark the holes, and let a machine shop punch the holes or drill and mill your countersunk holes for you. It would be money well spent and extremely precise.
I got my pallet cart to work, in my infinite wisdom last night, I hadn't lifted the 3pt to full height because I was worried the hydraulic top link would hit the light bar... Well, it didn't. So my BB clears my pallet cart by roughly 3/4"
I had to lift to full height and extend the top link ram a few inches to level out the BB but all is well!Here's one of the bucket cart in action (I can drive the tractor out, set the forks and leave them in the cart, and easily switch to bucket and visa versa without doing any manual labor except for locking the pallet cart casters). I can also move and relocate my BB now out of the way and into storage when I borrow an implement like a stump grinder or chipper. Another benefit is that I can load the pallet cart into a trailer for other implements to be placed on and use the forks to remove the pallet+implement and wheel it around back of the tractor for quick hookup.
I do want to add some tube handles bent in U shape and welded to flanges that I can bolt to the side of the carts so I can move them around easier without having to bend down. I also need to add some tie down rings to the carts to keep the implements secure and secure the cart to a trailer if necessary.
I think for the tie downs, I can use some scrap strut channel and bolt some eye bolts/eye nutd to them for straps to hook to like the below image:
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Maybe some grader (plow) bolts would work.Hmmm, interesting bar. No such bar was on my bucket (nor suggested by the dealer). I just noticed the existing holes and THOUGHT BXPanded would take advantage of those holes. I was very wrong, and they had no interest in discussing it with me.
I'm assuming the bolts in your kit are carriage bolts since the bar has square holes. That takes a pretty big punch press to press those out, not something I'd ever even want in my shed. It would have very few uses.
The advantage of the countersunk holes will be that a taper head bolt can be used on the bottom and not make grooves when you're back-dragging in soil. Dunno, maybe I'm just picky, because they wouldn't be deep grooves from just the bolts, however fine roots and stuff will catch on a bolt head and accumulate a packed ball of dirt which will make them deeper. Carriage bolts would be better than standard bolts, but I don't have any square drills.
I'll probably use some 1/2" grade 8 taper heads. Just curious if you know what the length is. I can measure it for total penetration plus nut/washer height, but I'm lazy. Don't want threads sticking out of the nuts that will get chewed up and make them murder to take back off later. Now to find a countersink for 1/2" taper head bolts.......
Amazon.com: 8 - Plow Bolts & Nuts for Blades/Cutting Edges, 5/8-11x2 1/4 - Grade 8, Dome Head : Industrial & Scientific
Amazon.com: 8 - Plow Bolts & Nuts for Blades/Cutting Edges, 5/8-11x2 1/4 - Grade 8, Dome Head : Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
mcmxi
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***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
I figured out that the JD plow won't work with the QH15 so got it hooked up to the 3-point directly. I flushed the old hydraulic oil out of the turnover system by connecting one of the new hoses to the plow and the other end to one of the remotes and running the other old hydraulic line from the plow into a bucket. Once flushed, I then connected the other new hose to the plow and remote and made sure that the turnover system works, which it does, and it works well! Finally I did a fairly good job of cleaning the plow off with a pressure washer in preparation for the next phase, which is replacing or repairing any parts of pieces that need it.
Does anyone know the technical terms for hydraulically operated turnover mechanism?
You wouldn't know it but the M was in regen mode when this photo was taken.
Does anyone know the technical terms for hydraulically operated turnover mechanism?
You wouldn't know it but the M was in regen mode when this photo was taken.
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Those would work, the part numbers I provided will too but the ones shown above are easier to countersink due to smaller diameter.
I was looking to buy a new Woodmaxx MX8600 chipper. Well, I found a lightly used (22hrs.) with a fresh set of blades/filter TM-86H in excellent condition that I bought instead. I would prefer new with the warranty and hydro drive BUT the price difference made it hard to pass up. It was a few hours away but I love a good roadtrip.
Now I just have to figure out the best way to get it outta my truck in the morning.
Now I just have to figure out the best way to get it outta my truck in the morning.
It rode to its new home in style!I was looking to buy a new Woodmaxx MX8600 chipper. Well, I found a lightly used (22hrs.) with a fresh set of blades/filter TM-86H in excellent condition that I bought instead. I would prefer new with the warranty and hydro drive BUT the price difference made it hard to pass up. It was a few hours away but I love a good roadtrip.
Now I just have to figure out the best way to get it outta my truck in the morning.
View attachment 85241
pokey1416
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Grand L4060HSTC, BH92 Backhoe, HLA Snow Pusher, Dirt Dog Tiller, EA DiscHarrow
Fixed the left side handle/lock as it’s been slowly binding more and making it difficult to open. Found the problem to be the threaded bolts that hold the plastic lock block were very loose - a little Loctite and good to go.
Oh, and welcomed our first grand baby on Thursday afternoon. Girl named Maci. I’ll be shopping for everything orange for her!
Oh, and welcomed our first grand baby on Thursday afternoon. Girl named Maci. I’ll be shopping for everything orange for her!
Awesome chipper and truck! What'd you get it for if you don't mind me asking?
Congrats on the new addition to your family!
The truck or the chipper?
Chipper was $2400. Normally I wouldn’t pay that close to “new” price outta spite but the MX8600 to my driveway was $4k-ish. The savings bought me the HD Woods back blade and a few snacks.
I don't blame you, that's a good price compared to a new one shipped (probably $3k) and that unit looks good from the photos. Enjoy and report back on how well it works with the LX.The truck or the chipper?
Chipper was $2400. Normally I wouldn’t pay that close to “new” price outta spite but the MX8600 to my driveway was $4k-ish. The savings bought me the HD Woods back blade and a few snacks.