Tin Roof Barn Coating-Your Choice?

[Creature Meadow]

Hey OTT, deer season is over and the roofs on my barns and chicken coop need some TLC.

Back in 2000 ish I used the ole silver fiber based roofing sealer that I rolled on with a 1 1/4" roller.

I'll start with removing any roofing nails that have back out and replace with tin screws that have the rubber washer on them.

I'll pressure wash where needed and then apply new coating.

What has worked for you? I have a Home Depot near me and a Lowes.

Any thoughts on brands to use and to stay away from?

I need to measure sq. ft. of areas I'll be resurfacing but one barn is purdy big, big a frame section and shelters off both sides.

So let me hear some thoughts on what to use.

Thanks for your time.

Jay

 

[sheepfarmer]

Re: Tin Roof Barn Coating-Uour Choice?

I dunno, but following with interest. I have two that are leaking, and one looks rusty. Assumed I'd have to replace. Want to put solar panels up there, so need structural integrity.
Might be a pipe dream though

 

[Creature Meadow]

Re: Tin Roof Barn Coating-Uour Choice?

Just got in from work and pulled tape on barns and chicken coop. Looking at 3500 sq. ft. of tin to cover.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Re: Tin Roof Barn Coating-Uour Choice?

Been using the fiber based silver stuff on out 130 year old barn every 5 years but I hire it out. Too high up for me to deal with.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Re: Tin Roof Barn Coating-Uour Choice?

I just did my house and barn with 100% silicone solids Mule Hyde. 50 year guarantee. It sticks to multiple surfaces including asphaltic material.

If you only want to do it one more time...

https://www.mulehide.com/Roofing-Products/p/100SiliconeRoofCoating

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Re: Tin Roof Barn Coating-Uour Choice?

One thing to note is that steel sheet roofing is attach differently when you nail it or screw it, nails go in the ridges and screws go in the flats.
If you use screws in the ridges it will flex, tear and leak.

 

[NoJacketRequired]

Re: Tin Roof Barn Coating-Uour Choice?

One thing to note is that steel sheet roofing is attach differently when you nail it or screw it, nails go in the ridges and screws go in the flats.
If you use screws in the ridges it will flex, tear and leak.

NIW - I normally regard your comments as gospel, but on this one I have to say WHOA THERE!

I have yet to see a corrugated steel roof where the fasteners are installed on the flats rather than the ridges. I've provided below a link to the data sheet for the steel that's on the roof of our hangar. This is essentially a pole barn that's 240 feet long by 36 feet wide, clad on the roof, walls and sliding doors with steel sheet as outlined in the data sheet below. Note the fastener location. On the ridge, not on the flat.

http://www.idealroofing.ca/english_us/pdf/products/pocket/DataSheet.pdf

Note this hangar was constructed in the late '80s. Over the last year we've undertaken to re-attach the roof sheets as the screws were starting to work loose. Had it been nailed it would have needed to have the nails re-done many years ago. According to one of the original hangar builders, they did a test sheet with nails. Two years later that test sheet tore off in a high wind. Its replacement was screwed in place like the rest of the roof and is still in place today. We see huge temperature variations, freeze/thaw cycles, high winds (have you known any place windier than an airport?), snow loads and ice, and yet this roof just keeps on keeping on.

An excerpt from the product data sheet is attached here to show how the steel is fastened.

Please don't take my word for it - consult the data sheets of your local roofing manufacturers. If they provide a different recommendation I'd sure welcome seeing it.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Never seen any metal roof or metal siding where the fasteners were installed on the flat either. Not called 'standing seam' for no reason. The roof on my old barn is Grand Rib 3, same as my pole building shop. All fasteners are in the standing seam and all fasteners are neoprene washer'd nail in.

I didn't do either, had a contractor do it.

 

[majorwager]

FABRAL can supply either screws or nails for fastening into dimension lumber. Always use screws with solid sheathing. Screws for use with steel panels are galvanized and then coated with an organic polymer for optimum corrosion resistance. For best results with aluminum panels, use #300 series stainless steel screws.

Wood screws with combination metal and neoprene washers should be installed in the flat area of the panel adjacent to the ribs,

Wood screws[ with combination metal and neoprene washers should be installed in the flat area of the panel adjacent to the ribs[/B], and tightened such that the washer is compressed as illustrated above. This will ensure a lasting, leak-proof seal

file:
https://fabral.com/media/1229/pf-blue-book-7-15.pdf

 

[majorwager]

Fabral subscribes to the industry standards for fabrication and installation

RIBBED panels are fastened in the flat surface.

There were a few items to dispute
Flipper suggested using nails w/ the neoprene washers, Although nails are still accepted, a professional contractor would NOT use them.

The coated screws noted in the post above do not suffer from the forces exerted upon the panel by the sun. The panel, regardless of color, willl expand and contract, eventually loosening the nail head and washer.


Flipper mentioned fastening in a standing seam. This is physically impossible.
the profile of a standing seam is very narrow. A standing seam profile is very different from a rib pattern panel.

The standing seam roof is only attached at the seam. The fastener is BLIND, no surface attachment possible. Most are an overlay design that clips into place. there is a blind fastener on the unlaying panel

The more commercial style panels use a blind clip that is incorporated in the seam. See the illustrations. many of these seams are mechanically (closed) seamed.

Words and descriptions do matter. Federal legislation concerning warranties should reference the proper ACT name and tapered front roller bearings do not exist on Kubota tractors.

https://www.atas.com/products/metal-roofing-systems/standing-seam

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Never seen any metal roof or metal siding where the fasteners were installed on the flat either. Not called 'standing seam' for no reason. The roof on my old barn is Grand Rib 3, same as my pole building shop. All fasteners are in the standing seam and all fasteners are neoprene washer'd nail in.

I didn't do either, had a contractor do it.

If you had a contractor install your Grand Rib 3 sheet with the screws in the peaks... You got ripped off!
And there is no standing seam on a grand rib sheet, that term is only used on a standing seam roofing... AKA hidden fastener roofing.

We have one of the largest manufacturer of steel roofing products just down the road and they are an industry leader, Fabral, they are also the manufacture of Grand rib 3 sheets.


I didn't make up the screw location, This is out of their book!

And their video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX_ZmPKSKyI

 

[D2Cat]

I've got some metal roofs. Here's how they are anchored. https://www.metalsales.us.com/syste...ides/classic-rib-installation-guide8-2016.pdf

I guess it all depends on what oil you use!

 

[Fordtech86]

Y’all made me curious. I got a steel roof on my house and it’s screwed down like d2cat example.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

This is the one D2Cat's post from Metal sales.

This is the one I posted from Fabral.

2 seperate companies and both have them on the flats.
One small difference is Fabral recommends butyl sealant on the seam sheet where Metal sales suggests a stitch screw, that does not go through the roof sheeting.

NoJacketRequired,
That is a very odd and old style of roof panel, the design is a rather unique one.
It's interesting that they only required the fasteners to be in the peak of only the seam joint.
They relied heavily on the strength of the steel to keep its shape and not lift and tear.
I'm glad it's held up for you, I fear a lot of those designs didn't hence the change in the pattern of most steel roofing systems.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Back in 2000 ish I used the ole silver fiber based roofing sealer that I rolled on with a 1 1/4" roller.

Creature Meadow,
Sorry that I have derailed the thread!
I only wanted to point out the nail/screw detail difference that I thought was important.

One other detail to note that I think is important, most new coatings will not bond well to, or at all, with the old metallic asphalt fiber coatings.
If there is any trace of it still there sample test any newer products to make sure they adhere, coat evenly, don't discolor (bleed through), and make sure they cure or harden.

 

[bearbait]

I have a metal roof on our home and garage and both were done the same as in D2Cats diagram and they've held up very well. Bottom line is I guess it's whatever works for you but thanks CM for reminding me of another chore I have facing me this spring. I was just planning on painting it but great to see different ideas, I only want to do this once.

 

[85Hokie]

Creature Meadow,
Sorry that I have derailed the thread!
I only wanted to point out the nail/screw detail difference that I thought was important.

One other detail to note that I think is important, most new coatings will not bond well to, or at all, with the old metallic asphalt fiber coatings.
If there is any trace of it still there sample test any newer products to make sure they adhere, coat evenly, don't discolor (bleed through), and make sure they cure or harden.

Having placed metal roof up quite a bit.....I have always used the self tappers that have the neoprene washers - always used a story pole as my guide, predrilling through the underside in the "humps" and then handed up panels with the hole lining up to the horz 2x4's.

AS NIW shows .......the correct way is in the flats!!!

Now logic says.....that little @#$##$ washer is gonna go by-by in a few years of the heat and cold, thus leaving a smidge of gap between head and metal.....water would surely find a way into that hole! Where as the hole in the hump would be less likely to "leak" once the washer was past its prime.

Always placed in the "humps" - snug and quit! However - all the metal I placed, THAT was the not so correct way to do it!

Different companies do it differently.......I have them up for years....no leaks that I know of......

now lets talk about the ridge cap and how that is a cluster #$##@ if you do it by the book!

 

[NoJacketRequired]

Well I'll be humdingered... It's a poor day when you can't learn something.

I've gone back and checked every data sheet for every crimp style our local manufacturer makes and they all recommend screws through the ridges rather than the flats. Talk about two different ways to skin the same cat!

 

[Creature Meadow]

Thought for a minute I was on the wrong thread and I ask which oil to use

The tin when it was installed back when 70's maybe or earlier. Only 48 and remember the barn when I was a boy. The v was dented and a roofing nail with a rubber washer on it was used. Over time they have worked loose. I ahve replaced them with screws that have rubber washers on them. They have done well and no leaks where they have been installed.

So does anyone have some suggestions of type of coating to use

Here are couple pics of the barn from the roof.

 

[Creature Meadow]

Here is an example of the screws I have been using through the v where the nail was.