Superdutys are dangerous and should be banned

The Evil Twin

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Can a mod change the thread title to "Bought the wrong model truck and now I'm mad"?
 
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motionclone

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The dealer monkeys have no way to program the system to ignore rear seat belts.

Did you remove just the buckles, or the retractors too?

You won’t be able to just jump the two pins on the buckle , light will still be on, they use a Hall effect switch for the buckle sensors.

No weight sensors in the rear seats.

I don’t see the key in chime as programmable either on our side, Forscan possibly, but I can’t say for sure.




Mcfarmall said it best 🤣🤣🤣
I removed both retractors and buckles. i still have them. What does the computer need to hear from these retractors though in order to turn off the airbag light.
bummer about the key chime
 

motionclone

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I use seat belt extenders (Amazon or eBay) in my Toyota. Plug them into the seatbelt receptacle & the truck is happy (no chime). I use them when a cooler or dog trip the weight sensor. Or just motoring around the farm at 5 mph & don’t want to be safely strapped in.
This isnt the issue. The issue you are talking about is easy to defeat on the superduty.
 

Mark_BX25D

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Im burning 1 quart of oil every 4000 miles in a 20k mile truck. Ford says thats acceptable up to 1 qt per 3000 miles. Its still under factory warranty

Thread hijacking is not cool. This thread is about a user disabling safety equipment.
 
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Mark_BX25D

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I use seat belt extenders (Amazon or eBay) in my Toyota. Plug them into the seatbelt receptacle & the truck is happy (no chime). I use them when a cooler or dog trip the weight sensor. Or just motoring around the farm at 5 mph & don’t want to be safely strapped in.
FYI, an air bag will probably kill you if you trigger it while not wearing a seat belt. If you are keeping it slow, you probably won't trigger the bag. IIRC, it takes 25 MPH to trigger it.
 

GreensvilleJay

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Usually any connector that's molded in YELLOW has to have 'something' connected to it as it's part of the air bag/srs/xyz system'...Everything 'yellow' is on a separate computer safety'
I think the easy 'fix' is to reconnect the seatbelts, connect as if someone is using them. When you see the idiot light go out, then decide how to configure the back area as a tool zone.
My friend simple built a shallow box/platform to just clear the hump/tunnel,giving him a large flat area to toss in his 9 friggin toolboxes of 'stuffs'.

Sad thing is they're working on using LASERS to decide if a person is in a seat, which one, how big a person. It's an overly complicated system that really isn't needed.......
 

OntheRidge

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My 2020 Dually 7.3 F350 worktruck is an extracab. I took out the back seats to make room for tools and in the process, removed the rear seatbelts. Since then my airbag light has been on, presumably because seat belts arent hooked up. So I took to the dealership to disable those seatbelts due to there being no seats as well as some warranty work and they say they cant disable those because its a safety issue, liability blah blah blah.

So i say, actually, having my airbag light on all the time is a safety issue because if i there is a fault in my front airbag system (where the seats actually are) i wont know because the light is always on. They say yeah good point but sorry no can do. Oh and we cant put a safety inspection sticker on because your airbag light is on...lol

So is there a fix or workaround for tricking the system? If i put the seatbelts back it will be in the way of my tool area.

Also is there a way to disable the key in ignition, door open chime? If youre in construction you will understand.

Should i or could i use Forscan to fix/disable these things? Anyone else deal with this?
I know Forscan can get rid of the door chime, among other things. Not sure on the airbag light. Try checking the superduty forum, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum5/
 
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dirtydeed

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woodman55

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I was told this years ago and it is very true. Engineers don't build machines, bankers and lawyers build machines. It all comes down to cost/unit and legal liability.
 
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ayak

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IM looking into cost of forscan. Might be worth it just to disable the door chime
The Forscan software itself is free. But I bought this needed tool off Amazon to ‘send’ my changes I wanted to make to my 2020 F250.
D8841650-1724-4A85-A286-DE4139761FC7.jpeg
 

mcmxi

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I have the real 7.3L in the form of a 2002 F250 7.3L. I love that truck. I bought it from a good friend (American Airlines pilot) who moved to Hawaii and didn't want to take it with him. He bought the truck new in 2002 and sold it to me about five years ago for $8k with only 117,000 miles on it. I added a chip and programmer from DP-Tuner and it's a great truck and going strong at almost 170,000 miles now. I need to change the glow plugs since a few are bad which makes starting in cold weather kind of difficult.

I've owned a lot of Fords including Super Duty's, Rangers, Mustangs (SVT), Contour (SVT), F150 and my first car, a Fiesta. :LOL: I like Ford products in general, particularly the Super Duty models, but my old Ford has no DPF, no DEF, and has a Banks exhaust from the turbo back. Great truck!! $85k for a new Super Duty just isn't in my immediate future, but if I were looking for a new truck I'd be looking at Ford first despite the inflammatory title of this thread.

I used my old Ford to pull the M6060 600 miles from Sheridan, WY to Kalispell, MT over four mountain passes. The truck, trailer and tractor, plus two dogs, two spare tires, a Decked system in the bed, and a SnugTop came in a little under 20,000lb. The only hill that was a struggle was the 6% grade out of Missoula. In 3rd gear with the peddle to the floor all I could do was 55mph for 5 miles but we made it. There are times when I wish I had more hp and torque, and one day I'll upgrade the turbo, hp oil pump, injectors, transmission etc. .... one day.
 
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OntheRidge

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Kubota L47 TLB, Homestead 55" grapple, LP 1684 rear blade, WR Long 84" snowplow
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IM looking into cost of forscan. Might be worth it just to disable the door chime
 

OntheRidge

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Kubota L47 TLB, Homestead 55" grapple, LP 1684 rear blade, WR Long 84" snowplow
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There are some good videos on you tube for Forscan, as well.
 

motionclone

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L345DT with Lp mower, forks and grapple thumb, Bobcat 337 Midi Ex
May 4, 2018
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I have the real 7.3L in the form of a 2002 F250 7.3L. I love that truck. I bought it from a good friend (American Airlines pilot) who moved to Hawaii and didn't want to take it with him. He bought the truck new in 2002 and sold it to me about five years ago for $8k with only 117,000 miles on it. I added a chip and programmer from DP-Tuner and it's a great truck and going strong at almost 170,000 miles now. I need to change the glow plugs since a few are bad which makes starting in cold weather kind of difficult.

I've owned a lot of Fords including Super Duty's, Rangers, Mustangs (SVT), Contour (SVT), F150 and my first car, a Fiesta. :LOL: I like Ford products in general, particularly the Super Duty models, but my old Ford has no DPF, no DEF, and has a Banks exhaust from the turbo back. Great truck!! $85k for a new Super Duty just isn't in my immediate future, but if I were looking for a new truck I'd be looking at Ford first despite the inflammatory title of this thread.

I used my old Ford to pull the M6060 600 miles from Sheridan, WY to Kalispell, MT over four mountain passes. The truck, trailer and tractor, plus two dogs, two spare tires, a Decked system in the bed, and a SnugTop came in a little under 20,000lb. The only hill that was a struggle was the 6% grade out of Missoula. In 3rd gear with the peddle to the floor all I could do was 55mph for 5 miles but we made it. There are times when I wish I had more hp and torque, and one day I'll upgrade the turbo, hp oil pump, injectors, transmission etc. .... one day.
I loved my 6.7 up to the point i had a wire issue with a nox sensor. Traced it down over a couple weekends, fixed it with a new wire. All was goodexcept the computer wanted to disable the truck in xx number of miles and counting because of the emmision fault even though it was fixed. Had to be reset by the dealer otherwse i was going to be left stranded for a no longer existing probem. Cost $450 because they said they had to check my work before they did the reset.
Traded it in a month later for a gas truck under factory waranty