Post your ROPS light mounting pics
- Thread starter Burgie
- Start date
I really like the lights you added to the tractor. Was that a Kubota kit you bought? I am not too savvy when it comes to electrical things. What are you like cutting and splicing into to give them power? Or is there like a plug or fitting or something?
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I finished with my ROPS Lights last weekend. I like your side mounted lights. I bet that helps out a lot when getting down off the tractor.
I used LED pods from superbrightleds and switches from otrattw.
1. ROPS lights.
2. Switches installed.
3. Switches at night.
4. Rear ROPS Lights.
5. ROPS and Head Lights.
I used LED pods from superbrightleds and switches from otrattw.
1. ROPS lights.
2. Switches installed.
3. Switches at night.
4. Rear ROPS Lights.
5. ROPS and Head Lights.
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LOVE the lights. The backhoe lights will come in handy while you burry the body of the guy who brings your daughter home after curfew! LOLI finished with my ROPS Lights last weekend. I like your side mounted lights. I bet that helps out a lot when getting down off the tractor.
I used LED pods from superbrightleds and switches from otrattw.
1. ROPS lights.
2. Switches installed.
3. Switches at night.
4. Rear ROPS Lights.
5. ROPS and Head Lights.
On a side note. I see that it looks like you are the only one in this post who actually drilled into the ROPS. Seams like all others used a wrap around mounting bracket approach. Should the ROPS be punctured? is there a MAJOR problem with drilling the ROPS? Getting ready to start my light package. I was thinking of drilling and tapping the ROPS and even plumbing the wires inside the ROPS. Will I be violating any major international law by doing so or is it just not smart? Some of the bracket installs look solid as a rock and very clean. all this has me second guessing my approach.
Please advise.
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WoodyBlue,
Yes, I drilled two (2) holes in my ROPS for 1/4-20 bolts and didn't think twice about it. I have read tons of comments in hundreds of threads regarding any modification of the ROPS in any way, shape or form. It's akin to Roe vs. Wade. My position is very simple: it's my tractor and I'll do whatever I want with it and to it.
On Monday I brought it to my dealer for my new BH65 installation and the owner absolutely loved my clean neat installation. I sheepishly broached the subject of the two small holes I drilled into the ROPS and the voluminous opinions on forums I read. He smiled and laughed and said two small holes for bolts will not adversely impact the structure integrity of the ROPS...pointing out that the hinged joint has a greater likelihood of causing a ROPS failure than 2 small bolt holes...
Your installation looks great...thanks for sharing...
Yes, I drilled two (2) holes in my ROPS for 1/4-20 bolts and didn't think twice about it. I have read tons of comments in hundreds of threads regarding any modification of the ROPS in any way, shape or form. It's akin to Roe vs. Wade. My position is very simple: it's my tractor and I'll do whatever I want with it and to it.
On Monday I brought it to my dealer for my new BH65 installation and the owner absolutely loved my clean neat installation. I sheepishly broached the subject of the two small holes I drilled into the ROPS and the voluminous opinions on forums I read. He smiled and laughed and said two small holes for bolts will not adversely impact the structure integrity of the ROPS...pointing out that the hinged joint has a greater likelihood of causing a ROPS failure than 2 small bolt holes...
Your installation looks great...thanks for sharing...
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
One of the major reasons why drilling the ROPS is a bad idea, is that the inside of the tube is not treated for rust prevention.
What looks like a nice clean simple install now, could kill you 10 years down the line, from the ROPS rusting out on the inside.
What looks like a nice clean simple install now, could kill you 10 years down the line, from the ROPS rusting out on the inside.
Wolfman...please provide me with some clarification as I had not heard this before? The inside of the ROPS is not treated?
North Idaho Wolfman
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Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Any metal that is exposed to the elements must be treated with a rust inhibitor like Zinc Oxide, or it will rust and break down.
ROPS are normally sealed or have a small weep hole and that is it.
It doesn't allow moisture and air to freely pass over the surface and condense moisture and corrode the surface.
ROPS designs do not make it easy to inspect the interior surface for corrosion damage thus they don't want to compromising the structure and allow it to create an unseen and undetectable failure point.
Newer the ROPS the worse it is as they have made the metal thinner and thinner through the years, I'm betting it didn't take anything to drill a hole in it.
I'm actually quite surprised at your dealers response as they could not buy then resell your tractor without installing a new un-compromised, un-altered ROPS on it, which on a trade in situation I'm sure will come up, and if it's not spoken the price of trade will reflect it.
Now do I think you killed it, No, I would just take off the ROPS, fill it with some Zinc rust inhibitor, like Zinc primer, swirl it all around to coat all the surfaces, then drain out the excess, and call it good.
ROPS are normally sealed or have a small weep hole and that is it.
It doesn't allow moisture and air to freely pass over the surface and condense moisture and corrode the surface.
ROPS designs do not make it easy to inspect the interior surface for corrosion damage thus they don't want to compromising the structure and allow it to create an unseen and undetectable failure point.
Newer the ROPS the worse it is as they have made the metal thinner and thinner through the years, I'm betting it didn't take anything to drill a hole in it.
I'm actually quite surprised at your dealers response as they could not buy then resell your tractor without installing a new un-compromised, un-altered ROPS on it, which on a trade in situation I'm sure will come up, and if it's not spoken the price of trade will reflect it.
Now do I think you killed it, No, I would just take off the ROPS, fill it with some Zinc rust inhibitor, like Zinc primer, swirl it all around to coat all the surfaces, then drain out the excess, and call it good.
Wolfman...
I am a Failure Analysis & Material Science Engineer and am well aware of the mechanics of corrosion down to the atomic level and have analyzed many forms of corrosion. I'll be the first to say corrosion sucks and costs billions every year...
What I was getting at is the fact that the ROPS on my B2620 is foldable. And, the ends of the tubes are exposed and wide open with no rectangular "plugs" welded onto the ends to make the tubular ROPS "hermetic" (so to speak).
Given your statement "that the inside of the tube is not treated for rust prevention"...that means the entire interior surface area of the ROPS is exposed to moisture and prone to rusting...right? Because it certainly isn't powder coated or painted on the inside (other than over-spray near the openings)...at least not that I can see.
I would loosely agree in a situation in which the entire ROPS was sealed, but disagree when the ends are exposed and the entire interior surfaces are subject to corrosion mechanisms.
Now, for what its worth, I did take a small acid brush, bend the end over 90 degrees, tape it to a dowel and reach up and coat the interior threads and surrounding area with a self-etching primer followed by some direct-to-metal paint I had kicking around...
I am a Failure Analysis & Material Science Engineer and am well aware of the mechanics of corrosion down to the atomic level and have analyzed many forms of corrosion. I'll be the first to say corrosion sucks and costs billions every year...
What I was getting at is the fact that the ROPS on my B2620 is foldable. And, the ends of the tubes are exposed and wide open with no rectangular "plugs" welded onto the ends to make the tubular ROPS "hermetic" (so to speak).
Given your statement "that the inside of the tube is not treated for rust prevention"...that means the entire interior surface area of the ROPS is exposed to moisture and prone to rusting...right? Because it certainly isn't powder coated or painted on the inside (other than over-spray near the openings)...at least not that I can see.
I would loosely agree in a situation in which the entire ROPS was sealed, but disagree when the ends are exposed and the entire interior surfaces are subject to corrosion mechanisms.
Now, for what its worth, I did take a small acid brush, bend the end over 90 degrees, tape it to a dowel and reach up and coat the interior threads and surrounding area with a self-etching primer followed by some direct-to-metal paint I had kicking around...
I am still working on the wiring but I got my aux lights mounted on the BX last night. I didn't want to drill holes in my new tractor so I decided to use the bracket for the amber lights. Easy install, cheap, no holes in the tractor but I give up a little on illumination since they won't be mounted high.
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North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I was not aware that your ROPS is open on the ends, please feel free to disregard what I said!
I personally love the idea of the Liquid-tite flexible conduit. Color looks good and opens up a world of possibilities.
Well... that settles it for me... I'm taking off these janky U-Bolts and drilling holes in my ROPS.
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Hell yes!! I drilled holes in mine AND protected the wires I ran inside with plastic corrugated split loom!!
I just read through this entire thread, and maybe I missed it; can anyone show me where they got power for their aftermarket ROPS lights? I thought that there was an available plug on the Kubotas (I have a B2650) that is already fused and linked to the ignition for power only when the tractor is on.
I would prefer to tie into that location if there is one available on my tractor.
I already have have the dealer-installed halogen work light on the ROPS, but want to add some additional lights. I'm hoping that there is another plug, or maybe I need to get power from the same wires that feed the halogen light?
I would prefer to tie into that location if there is one available on my tractor.
I already have have the dealer-installed halogen work light on the ROPS, but want to add some additional lights. I'm hoping that there is another plug, or maybe I need to get power from the same wires that feed the halogen light?
beaterboss
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L3901, LA525-FEL, BMLX-3164 3pt Blower, 72" Coteck Sno Pusher, 60" Box Blade
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=225762#post225762
I think I had put this in the wrong area.
I think I had put this in the wrong area.
There is a bundle of wires under the rear of the seat taped up with electrical tape. However, if you have the dealer installed lights, those have already been used and you will need to add a fuse block like some of the other guys in this thread have done. Or ditch those crappy factory halogen lights and replace with LED.
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I had an eleven paragraph explanation on how to do this exactly and correctly but when I hit "submit Reply" the system crashed. You need a relay and a circuit that is wired to the ignition switch. Not too hard to find if you know where to look. In a few days I will have a full explanation and photos ready for upload on OTT. Plus I am already in the process of building a YouTube Channel that will chronicle the mods on the tractor, trailer and implements including the ROPS lighting project. You will be able to find it in the coming week at http://www.BotaTrac.com
Hang in there kid - I'll get you there, just give me a few days.
Good luck and Godspeed..............BotaTrac