Hydraulic top link questions

[Gaspasser]

Just got L6060 back from dealer for 50 hour service and installation of top and tilt kit. I have Pat's quick hitch system on lower arms. This pushes my implements back making the manual top link (34 inches eye to eye ) relatively too short to easily reach the implement top hitch. This has been discussed on this forum in various ways with possible solutions being 1) buy a longer hydraulic top link or 2) fabricate an adapter on the tractor side to extend the top link cylinder attachment point.

Spoke with dealer prior to install and was told hydraulic cylinder would be longer. They were right, by an extra 1/2 inch. So still too short without tipping my implements forward to hookup. This is difficult with heavy implements. So, I'm looking for a commercially available top link extender on the tractor side. Have had no luck finding this; is anyone aware of a source for such a adapter?

Second question: is there an easy way to hydraulically adjust length of top link from in the cab without making 27 trips back and forth to the 3 pt to see if I lined up the top link eye with the implement? This was easy with the manual screw adjusting top link but the hydraulic has negated this ability. Folks must have some tricks to make this more efficient?

Taking delivery of box blade this weekend and need to have enough top link length to tip box back when needed.

As always, grateful for all responses.

 

[woodman55]

I almost always use my quick hitch, so there is very little to line up. IF I do connect to something with the quick hitch, I put the top link into float, then push/pull on the end of the cyl to adjust it. If your has the load check vales in it, then there is no way other than using the lever.

I just looked at your pictures. Make sure the top link is connected to the ports with the float function, and you should be fine.

 

[Gaspasser]

I almost always use my quick hitch, so there is very little to line up. IF I do connect to something with the quick hitch, I put the top link into float, then push/pull on the end of the cyl to adjust it. If your has the load check vales in it, then there is no way other than using the lever.

I just looked at your pictures. Make sure the top link is connected to the ports with the float function, and you should be fine.

Did not realize I could manipulate cylinder by hand. I'll give it a try. Thank you!

 

[biketopia]

Your real benefit will be seen with a standard quick hitch. Are you using a lot of older implements that aren't quick hitch compatible?

 

[Gaspasser]

Your real benefit will be seen with a standard quick hitch. Are you using a lot of older implements that aren't quick hitch compatible?

Thanks for response. New implements. Both Cat 1 and Cat 2. Forgive my ignorance, but wouldn't any quick hitch move the attachment point rearwards? Are there specific brands/models of quick hitches you would recommend that are cat 1 and 2 compatible? I am reading manual on the rear remote cylinders and it discusses a third float lever which I do not seem to have. Only have the 1 control each for the top and tilt cylinders. I was unable to pull or adjust the cylinder manually by hand as Wood suggested. I posted a Pic of a label which seems to indicate cylinder function. Thanks again for assistance guys.

 

[woodman55]

In the second picture it shows a cyl with a curvy line, that would be the float location. Most rear remotes have a separate lever for each remote. Yours seems to be using the loader joystick to control them. It would be all the way forward on the joystick, past a detent. Do you have a loader ?

 

[Gaspasser]

In the second picture it shows a cyl with a curvy line, that would be the float location. Most rear remotes have a separate lever for each remote. Yours seems to be using the loader joystick to control them. It would be all the way forward on the joystick, past a detent. Do you have a loader ?

Yes Woodman. I do have 2 levers for the rear remotes (not shown in my pics), 1 for each cylinder. The default position is centered and returns to center by spring action when hands are off. Forward and rearward movement of levers lengthens and shortens the top and tilt cylinders. I'll get additional pics posted tomorrow. I very much appreciate your help. Unfortunately, the manual is light on specifics. I will search for videos this weekend and will see if the dealer can help me out as well when they reopen next week. Thank you very much again. It is very frustrating to not understand what should be a simple process.

 

[Gaspasser]

In the second picture it shows a cyl with a curvy line, that would be the float location. Most rear remotes have a separate lever for each remote. Yours seems to be using the loader joystick to control them. It would be all the way forward on the joystick, past a detent. Do you have a loader ?

Oh yes, I do have a loader as well.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yes Woodman. I do have 2 levers for the rear remotes (not shown in my pics), 1 for each cylinder. The default position is centered and returns to center by spring action when hands are off. Forward and rearward movement of levers lengthens and shortens the top and tilt cylinders. I'll get additional pics posted tomorrow. I very much appreciate your help. Unfortunately, the manual is light on specifics. I will search for videos this weekend and will see if the dealer can help me out as well when they reopen next week. Thank you very much again. It is very frustrating to not understand what should be a simple process.

Does not sound like you have a valve with float.

Dan

 

[Gaspasser]

Does not sound like you have a valve with float.

Dan

Thanks Dan. By now, I am totally confused. Lol. Tomorrow when I get back to my woodlot, I'll take multiple pics and post here. Perhaps the pics will be more clear than the way I am trying to describe the issue. Appreciate all of your efforts gang.

 

[woodman55]

On mine I think it is remote #2 that has the float function. It is the one closes to you when sitting in the seat. The ports are the lower two.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks Dan. By now, I am totally confused. Lol. Tomorrow when I get back to my woodlot, I'll take multiple pics and post here. Perhaps the pics will be more clear than the way I am trying to describe the issue. Appreciate all of your efforts gang.

So far you have not confused me too much.

1. You have a cab tractor with two rear remote valves and a hydraulic top link.
2. When hooking up an implement you are finding it difficult to accurately adjust the extension of the top link from inside the cab.

Pretty steaightforward and no need to get sidetracked. On my ROPS tractor I can operate the control lever while standing behind the tractor which makes it easy. In your case a strategically placed mirror and/or a floating link on tje implement may help.

Dan

 

[Henro]

Did not realize I could manipulate cylinder by hand. I'll give it a try. Thank you!

Just a small point (if you do have a valve with float): With the top link cylinder connected to the float valve ports, don’t forget to push the valve lever into the float detent position.

 

[SDT]

Just got L6060 back from dealer for 50 hour service and installation of top and tilt kit. I have Pat's quick hitch system on lower arms. This pushes my implements back making the manual top link (34 inches eye to eye ) relatively too short to easily reach the implement top hitch. This has been discussed on this forum in various ways with possible solutions being 1) buy a longer hydraulic top link or 2) fabricate an adapter on the tractor side to extend the top link cylinder attachment point.

Spoke with dealer prior to install and was told hydraulic cylinder would be longer. They were right, by an extra 1/2 inch. So still too short without tipping my implements forward to hookup. This is difficult with heavy implements. So, I'm looking for a commercially available top link extender on the tractor side. Have had no luck finding this; is anyone aware of a source for such a adapter?

Second question: is there an easy way to hydraulically adjust length of top link from in the cab without making 27 trips back and forth to the 3 pt to see if I lined up the top link eye with the implement? This was easy with the manual screw adjusting top link but the hydraulic has negated this ability. Folks must have some tricks to make this more efficient?

Taking delivery of box blade this weekend and need to have enough top link length to tip box back when needed.

As always, grateful for all responses.

Yet another reason why I do not use quick hitches.

Confused here. Why do you need the Pat's quick hitch system when your L6060 has extendable lift arm ends as standard equipment?

The decal pictured is for your third function cylinder. Are you operating one of your T & T cylinders from your third function circuit?

 

[mcmxi]

Yet another reason why I do not use quick hitches.

I don't follow your thought process. The OP doesn't have a quick hitch so how is this "yet another reason ..."?

As for Quick Hitches, I had a QH05 on the BX, and have a QH10 and QH15 on both tractors now. There is no easier way to connect to an implement than a QH and top-n-tilt, assuming the implement is QH compatible of course.

 

[SDT]

I don't follow your thought process. The OP doesn't have a quick hitch so how is this "yet another reason ..."?

As for Quick Hitches, I had a QH05 on the BX, and have a QH10 and QH15 on both tractors now. There is no easier way to connect to an implement than a QH and top-n-tilt, assuming the implement is QH compatible of course.

Should have typed quick hitches and "Pat's quick hitch system"[s}.

Thought it would be obvious.

 

[jyoutz]

Yet another reason why I do not use quick hitches.

Confused here. Why do you need the Pat's quick hitch system when your L6060 has extendable lift arm ends as standard equipment?

The decal pictured is for your third function cylinder. Are you operating one of your T & T cylinders from your third function circuit?

I agree. I had Pat’s on my last tractor and loved it. My current tractor has extendable lift arms and I see no reason to use anything else.

 

[mcmxi]

Should have typed quick hitches and "Pat's quick hitch system"[s}.

Thought it would be obvious.

OK .... I follow you now, but absolutely don't agree with regards to Land Pride and similar Quick Hitches. If your top link is flapping around it's not exactly a Quick Hitch.

I have some implements that aren't QH compatible, such as the Del Morino flail, and it's way more of a pain in the arse hooking it up compared to any implement that is QH compatible. Like I said, if you have a QH and top-n-tilt it's about as easy as it can be to hook up to an implement.

 

[Gaspasser]

Yet another reason why I do not use quick hitches.

Confused here. Why do you need the Pat's quick hitch system when your L6060 has extendable lift arm ends as standard equipment?

The decal pictured is for your third function cylinder. Are you operating one of your T & T cylinders from your third function circuit?

Thanks STD... I do have extendable lift arms but that still requires getting out of cab to pin. With Pat's only have to muck with top link. Wouldn't any QH system push the implement attachment point rearwards requiring a longer top link? Wouldn't getting a Speeco or equivalent Cat2 QH leave me with the same issue? As far as the decal, yes I have a 3rd function installed on front so the decal applies to that. I have 2 rear remotes with 1 lever each in cab. There is an empty slot; is this where a "float" control lever would go? Pictures attached. I apologize if these questions are entry level ignorance. This is my first tractor that I am using attachments on the 3 pt. In addition, the box blade arrived just now. I'll be trying to connect it today and see if the top link cylinder is too short. Thanks all for your patience and assistance. PS... for what its worth, lever #2 does detent/stick in the forward or compressed cylinder position. This lever controls the tilt cylinder. Lever 1 (top link) does ot detent but instead returns to middle position by spring action. Does this add any clarity?

 

[SDT]

Thanks STD... I do have extendable lift arms but that still requires getting out of cab to pin. With Pat's only have to muck with top link. Wouldn't any QH system push the implement attachment point rearwards requiring a longer top link? Wouldn't getting a Speeco or equivalent Cat2 QH leave me with the same issue? As far as the decal, yes I have a 3rd function installed on front so the decal applies to that. I have 2 rear remotes with 1 lever each in cab. There is an empty slot; is this where a "float" control lever would go? Pictures attached. I apologize if these questions are entry level ignorance. This is my first tractor that I am using attachments on the 3 pt. In addition, the box blade arrived just now. I'll be trying to connect it today and see if the top link cylinder is too short. Thanks all for your patience and assistance. PS... for what its worth, lever #2 does detent/stick in the forward or compressed cylinder position. This lever controls the tilt cylinder. Lever 1 (top link) does ot detent but instead returns to middle position by spring action. Does this add any clarity?

Ignoring the third function, OEM Kubota remote hydraulic valves to fit your L6060 are independent of each other.

One must specify which type of valve(s) one wishes upon ordering, and a float/detent valve can be mounted in any position.

There is no reason (aside from cost) why you could not install a float/detent valve for the third position.