Hydraulic top link questions

[woodman55]

The empty slot is for a third set of remotes.

Your #2 has the float function. So you need to swap the hoses between the the sets of remotes. To do this you need to pull out the lower left hose, then the upper left hose and push it into the lower left port, then put the other hose into the upper left port. Then do the same for the right side. This will connect the top cyl to the valve with the float function. Once done test the direction each cyl moves. You may need to swap the hoses side to side to get them to move the way you want.
Personally I have them set up so pushing the #1 lever forward lowers the right side, kind of like your loader valve. The #2 is plumbed so moving the lever forward lift the back of what ever implement I have attached.
We all need to learn, just a matter of reading and asking questions. If we did not want to help we would not answer the questions. So feel free to ask away.

 

[Gaspasser]

Ignoring the third function, OEM Kubota remote hydraulic valves to fit your L6060 are independent of each other.

One must specify which type of valve(s) one wishes upon ordering, and a float/detent valve can be mounted in any position.

There is no reason (aside from cost) why you could not install a float/detent valve for the third position.

Thanks again STD. Am I right in thinking the float lever goes in that empty slot. I'll call dealer Monday to see about float installation. Wish I were savvy
enough to know to ask for this in the first place. They are coming out in 2 weeks to do 200 service on my mini-ex. Wonder if they can do float on tractor at same time. Thanks again. BTW, box blade arrived and started to train on it.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks again STD. Am I right in thinking the float lever goes in that empty slot. I'll call dealer Monday to see about float installation. Wish I were savvy
enough to know to ask for this in the first place. They are coming out in 2 weeks to do 200 service on my mini-ex. Wonder if they can do float on tractor at same time. Thanks again. BTW, box blade arrived and started to train on it.

There os no "float lever". IF your valve has a float option you push the regular lever past a detent at the end of the initial travel and it locks into the float position.

Dan

 

[Gaspasser]

There os no "float lever". IF your valve has a float option you push the regular lever past a detent at the end of the initial travel and it locks into the float position.

Dan

Thanks Dan. Lever #2 does detent and stay in the forward position, #1 does not and returns to center when released. #2 is connected to tilt cylinder. Tomorrow I'll detach BB and see if I can move the tilt cylinder by hand when in the detent /float position. If this works, I should be able to just exchange hoses to get the top link to float right? Still working on coming up with a top link extension bracket on the tractor side to "lengthen" top link rearward reach. I can weld but sometimes easier to ask local weld shop to fabricate as they have all the steel in stock. Thanks and I'll update here tomorrow with results.

 

[NCL4701]

1. Wouldn't any QH system push the implement attachment point rearwards requiring a longer top link?

2. Wouldn't getting a Speeco or equivalent Cat2 QH leave me with the same issue?

3. There is an empty slot; is this where a "float" control lever would go?

4. PS... for what its worth, lever #2 does detent/stick in the forward or compressed cylinder position. This lever controls the tilt cylinder.

5. Lever 1 (top link) does ot detent but instead returns to middle position by spring action. Does this add any clarity?

1. No. If you have a full quick hitch, the hydraulic toplink mounts to the tractor side of the quick hitch. There’s a hook on the implement side of the quick hitch for the toplink on the implement. Same for the lift arms. So yes, it puts the implement a few inches further behind the tractor but it moves the toplink and lift arm links back the same amount. With Pat’s, the lift arm attachment points are moved back but the toplink isn’t, so it may require a longer toplink. I don’t have either system and am not advocating for, or criticizing, either; that’s just the geometry of the two systems.

I have a hydraulic toplink which is in the same vertical plane as the lift arms when all are level. If I get a quick hitch system at some point in the future, I’ll either have to get a full quick hitch or get a longer hydraulic toplink if I go with Pat’s.

2. No. Not if you remove the Pat’s and go with a full quick hitch such as Speeco, Landpride, etc. See answer 1. above for why.

3. No. The fact that there’s an empty slot means there’s room for one more remote: nothing else. Whether the slots have a center return, float detent, or continuous flow detent has nothing to do with which slot they’re in.

4. If it has a detent, that’s either a float or a continuous flow. Because it’s for a top/tilt, there’s a 99.5% chance it’s a float. If you want to make sure, push it past the detent and leave it there. If the associated cylinder floats (moves in and out freely), it’s a float detent. [Edit: “Freely” is freely with an implement hanging from it. You could probably move it by hand, but it takes some force to do it.] If there’s a continuous whining sound from the hydraulic relief valve and all the rest of the hydraulics perform like crap, it’s a full flow.

You can use float on the toplink or side link as you prefer for the job at hand by simply moving the hoses for the cylinder you want to float to the rear remotes associated with the float detent valve. For my purposes, my float detent valve stays on the toplink. Once in a while, I’ll move it to the sidelink for a grading job with a blade. Takes about 1 minute, maybe less, to swap the lines.

5. That’s a center return. It doesn’t float. It doesn’t continuous flow. It doesn’t detent. It moves the cylinder in or out depending on which way you push the lever and when you let go, it returns to its default position of holding the cylinder wherever you left it.

 

[NCL4701]

#2 is connected to tilt cylinder. Tomorrow I'll detach BB and see if I can move the tilt cylinder by hand when in the detent /float position. If this works, I should be able to just exchange hoses to get the top link to float right?

Don’t detach the boxblade. Put the remote in float. (Push it past the detent and leave it there.) Raise the lift. If the end without the hydraulic cylinder raises and the one with the hydraulic cylinder doesn’t, it’s a float.

And yes, you can move the hoses to get the toplink to float.

Edit: (sorry for all the edits on my two posts here) The ability for the cylinders to float assumes you don’t have check valves on the cylinders. You can’t float a check valved cylinder.

 

[Gaspasser]

Don’t detach the boxblade. Put the remote in float. (Push it past the detent and leave it there.) Raise the lift. If the end without the hydraulic cylinder raises and the one with the hydraulic cylinder doesn’t, it’s a float.

And yes, you can move the hoses to get the toplink to float.

Edit: (sorry for all the edits on my two posts here) The ability for the cylinders to float assumes you don’t have check valves on the cylinders. You can’t float a check valved cylinder.

Thank you so very much guys. Invaluable information. I'll try out your tips and report back later today. I wish the manual and/or the dealer were as forthcoming with details as you all are. Thanks!

 

[Gaspasser]

Thank you so very much guys. Invaluable information. I'll try out your tips and report back later today. I wish the manual and/or the dealer were as forthcoming with details as you all are. Thanks!

Ok, so..... did the detent position on lever 2. BB immediately tilts up on cylinder side and the rest of the hydraulics won't work. Move lever to center position and all hydraulics are functional. So by NCL's description, it looks like I have a "full flow" valve and not a float. I will confim with dealer tomorrow. So. . . If I am understanding correctly, my options are as follows:

1) Have dealer install float function. Doesn't solve my "short" top link issue though.

2) Install longer hydraulic top link. Doesn't give me a float solution unless I do both 1 &2.

3) Remove Pat's easy hitch and get a cat 1 and 2 compatible quick hitch. Does this even exist? This obviates need for float as QH essentially "permanently" installed to top link. The top link will no longer be "short" so easier to pick up implements with QH attached.

Am I missing anything in my thinking? I have a cat 1 carry all, a cat 1 Woodmax chipper, a cat 1 and cat 2 Homestead Imp 7 ft box blade, and will be getting a rotary cutter/ or flail mower. All are new.

So, if this makes sense, any recs on a cat 1 and cat 2 QH ( if such a thing exists)? Arm spacing is wider on cat 2.

Thanks gang.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am relatively certain that the only true cat 1 & cat 2 quick hitches are the Euro hook type ends.
These are available for the draft arms as well as the top link ends. The down fall of these is that they are not a single fixed hook-up width and height. The positive thing about them is the same, they are not a single fixed hook-up width and height and will work for just about any implement, new or old.

While these do not extend the draft arms as much as the Pat's type hitch @ 3 3/4", they do extend them about 2 1/8".

Just something else that you might want to consider.

 

[NCL4701]

Ok, so..... did the detent position on lever 2. BB immediately tilts up on cylinder side and the rest of the hydraulics won't work. Move lever to center position and all hydraulics are functional. So by NCL's description, it looks like I have a "full flow" valve and not a float. I will confim with dealer tomorrow. So. . . If I am understanding correctly, my options are as follows:

1) Have dealer install float function. Doesn't solve my "short" top link issue though.

2) Install longer hydraulic top link. Doesn't give me a float solution unless I do both 1 &2.

3) Remove Pat's easy hitch and get a cat 1 and 2 compatible quick hitch. Does this even exist? This obviates need for float as QH essentially "permanently" installed to top link. The top link will no longer be "short" so easier to pick up implements with QH attached.

Am I missing anything in my thinking? I have a cat 1 carry all, a cat 1 Woodmax chipper, a cat 1 and cat 2 Homestead Imp 7 ft box blade, and will be getting a rotary cutter/ or flail mower. All are new.

So, if this makes sense, any recs on a cat 1 and cat 2 QH ( if such a thing exists)? Arm spacing is wider on cat 2.

Thanks gang.

1. Just out of curiosity, what is your task where float is desirable or required? If you don’t have a specific use for it, it’s a lot of money for something there’s no current need for and could be added later if a need arises. Dealer asked me the same question when I specified a float detent and my answer was “I have a reason, just do it.” (I did have a reason and glad I got a float.) So your money, your call; just something to consider if you don’t have a need.

Also a little curious how you had a dealer install a couple of remotes and top/tilt cylinders without knowing what kind of valves they were putting on. Maybe I misunderstood and the remotes were already on the tractor. Did you spec a float and they gave you a continuous flow?

2. You can if you want but that’s a lot of $ just to avoid a full quick hitch. Again, your $, your decision.

3. A lot of them are Cat2 and you have to put bushings on the implement pins. Others can help you more with the specific makes/models there as I don’t have one.

 

[Gaspasser]

1. Just out of curiosity, what is your task where float is desirable or required? If you don’t have a specific use for it, it’s a lot of money for something there’s no current need for and could be added later if a need arises. Dealer asked me the same question when I specified a float detent and my answer was “I have a reason, just do it.” (I did have a reason and glad I got a float.) So your money, your call; just something to consider if you don’t have a need.

Also a little curious how you had a dealer install a couple of remotes and top/tilt cylinders without knowing what kind of valves they were putting on. Maybe I misunderstood and the remotes were already on the tractor. Did you spec a float and they gave you a continuous flow?

2. You can if you want but that’s a lot of $ just to avoid a full quick hitch. Again, your $, your decision.

3. A lot of them are Cat2 and you have to put bushings on the implement pins. Others can help you more with the specific makes/models there as I don’t have one.

Thanks NCL. I had one rear remote when I got the tractor and one had to be added to install the top and tilt. I was not asked about float and I did not know enough to request it. My only reason for wanting float is to be able to manually pull/push the top link cylinder to hook up implements instead of hopping in and out of the cab and doing it with the controls. My real issue is that the top link is made short by the Pat's easy hitch I installed on the lower arms. So either I remove the Pat's and get a QH or get a tractor side bracket fabricated to extend the hydaulic top link attachment point. If I go QH route, it will limit me to cat 1 compatible implements on the cat 2 3pt. Again. I have contributed to the problem by not foreseeing the pitfalls and understanding what fits my needs. Everyone's help is much appreciated.

 

[Russell King]

A solution to your problem is to put a method at the rear of the tractor to adjust the rear cylinders’ length.

Somewhere on this forum someone attached a Hiem joint (or similar) to the lever and ran a rod out to the back of the tractor so they could adjust the cylinde when standing near the 3PH installing an implement.

 

[Gaspasser]

A solution to your problem is to put a method at the rear of the tractor to adjust the rear cylinders’ length.

Somewhere on this forum someone attached a Hiem joint (or similar) to the lever and ran a rod out to the back of the tractor so they could adjust the cylinde when standing near the 3PH installing an implement.

Seems like a winning idea. Would this work with a cab? Perhaps through the open rear window? Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[NCL4701]

My only reason for wanting float is to be able to manually pull/push the top link cylinder to hook up implements instead of hopping in and out of the cab and doing it with the controls.

I have little else useful to add here and my only experience with using float on a toplink is with my ROPS L4701, which is admittedly a severely limited sample size, so take this for what it’s worth, which may or may not be much.

When I first got the hydraulic toplink, I thought it might be possible to put the valve in float and move the toplink cylinder manually to line it up. In reality I never do that. I can reach the valve from the back of the tractor so it isn’t a problem for me. (I’m aware you can’t do that on your much larger and nicer cabbed machine). But the real problem is even in float, it isn’t very easy to move manually. Yes, I can move it. But reaching over an implement, a position far from ideal to apply significant force, to push or pull it is much more difficult in practice than it might seem. It still has hydraulic oil on both sides of the piston and you have to push that fluid out, likely through a flow restrictor, to make it move. If I can guess at it close enough to get a partial overlap of the holes, float would allow final alignment with a drift. If you have the strength of an adult black bear, float would allow reasonable manual manipulation. I have the strength of an average, middle aged, 220lb male tree farmer; which means I use the valve to move the toplink.

The point of all that rambling is I doubt float is going to be a satisfactory solution to your issue. Just an opinion. YMMV.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have little else useful to add here and my only experience with using float on a toplink is with my ROPS L4701, which is admittedly a severely limited sample size, so take this for what it’s worth, which may or may not be much.

When I first got the hydraulic toplink, I thought it might be possible to put the valve in float and move the toplink cylinder manually to line it up. In reality I never do that. I can reach the valve from the back of the tractor so it isn’t a problem for me. (I’m aware you can’t do that on your much larger and nicer cabbed machine). But the real problem is even in float, it isn’t very easy to move manually. Yes, I can move it. But reaching over an implement, a position far from ideal to apply significant force, to push or pull it is much more difficult in practice than it might seem. It still has hydraulic oil on both sides of the piston and you have to push that fluid out, likely through a flow restrictor, to make it move. If I can guess at it close enough to get a partial overlap of the holes, float would allow final alignment with a drift. If you have the strength of an adult black bear, float would allow reasonable manual manipulation. I have the strength of an average, middle aged, 220lb male tree farmer; which means I use the valve to move the toplink.

The point of all that rambling is I doubt float is going to be a satisfactory solution to your issue. Just an opinion. YMMV.

OP might want to consider something like this.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/agknx-cat-1-quick-hitch-adapter-25-006-2086143

Dan

 

[Gaspasser]

I have little else useful to add here and my only experience with using float on a toplink is with my ROPS L4701, which is admittedly a severely limited sample size, so take this for what it’s worth, which may or may not be much.

When I first got the hydraulic toplink, I thought it might be possible to put the valve in float and move the toplink cylinder manually to line it up. In reality I never do that. I can reach the valve from the back of the tractor so it isn’t a problem for me. (I’m aware you can’t do that on your much larger and nicer cabbed machine). But the real problem is even in float, it isn’t very easy to move manually. Yes, I can move it. But reaching over an implement, a position far from ideal to apply significant force, to push or pull it is much more difficult in practice than it might seem. It still has hydraulic oil on both sides of the piston and you have to push that fluid out, likely through a flow restrictor, to make it move. If I can guess at it close enough to get a partial overlap of the holes, float would allow final alignment with a drift. If you have the strength of an adult black bear, float would allow reasonable manual manipulation. I have the strength of an average, middle aged, 220lb male tree farmer; which means I use the valve to move the toplink.

The point of all that rambling is I doubt float is going to be a satisfactory solution to your issue. Just an opinion. YMMV.

Thanks NCL. Your advice and knowledge are invaluable. Lining up the top link is the lesser of my issues. I'll give up on the float and can just live with adjusting from cab. Getting the top link "long enough" is the real issue. After all the tips I've received here, I've boiled it down to two options. 1) Remove Pat's and get a cat 1 QH. This will decrease the distance from implement to tractor and the top link will reach nicely. I may have to trim PTO shaft. Option 2: Have a local welder fabricate a tractor end bracket extender for top link.

I'll make some calls tomorrow to do research. Thanks again fir your help.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks NCL. Your advice and knowledge are invaluable. Lining up the top link is the lesser of my issues. I'll give up on the float and can just live with adjusting from cab. Getting the top link "long enough" is the real issue. After all the tips I've received here, I've boiled it down to two options. 1) Remove Pat's and get a cat 1 QH. This will decrease the distance from implement to tractor and the top link will reach nicely. I may have to trim PTO shaft. Option 2: Have a local welder fabricate a tractor nd bracket extender for top link.

I'll make some calls tomorrow to do research. Thanks again fir your help.

See my thoughts right above your post. It extends the yop link and adds an element of float.

Dan

 

[Russell King]

OP might want to consider something like this.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/agknx-cat-1-quick-hitch-adapter-25-006-2086143

Dan

Does what @TheOldHokie posted go at tractor end or implement end? I think it goes at implement end but nothing in the description really says anything about it.

Here is a link to another forum where a similar idea was used but it was for the tractor end and used two pins in the tractor bracket to hold it rigid and extend the top link. Seems like a good idea or just build a new tractor bracket that is longer towards the back of tractor and just bolt in place.

Pat's Easy Change - Extended Top Link for Pats EZchange

Here is a top link extender I made for use with my pats ezchange. I love the ezchange by the way. Some times the top link was just too short.

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[TheOldHokie]

Does what @TheOldHokie posted go at tractor end or implement end? I think it goes at implement end but nothing in the description really says anything about it.

Here is a link to another forum where a similar idea was used but it was for the tractor end and used two pins in the tractor bracket to hold it rigid and extend the top link. Seems like a good idea or just build a new tractor bracket that is longer towards the back of tractor and just bolt in place.

Pat's Easy Change - Extended Top Link for Pats EZchange

Here is a top link extender I made for use with my pats ezchange. I love the ezchange by the way. Some times the top link was just too short.

www.tractorbynet.com

The one I linked goes on the quick hitch. The one you linked adds length but does not provide any "float" too aid in hookup.

Making something like these is real EZ if you can weld

Dan

 

[Russell King]

Seems like a winning idea. Would this work with a cab? Perhaps through the open rear window? Thanks for the suggestion.

I can’t find the thread where that was shown but I recall that the linkage was all below the cab or the rod came out of the cab through a hole in a panel below the glass.

this thread is short but mentions that some other brands have a remote system

Getting ready to fab up a rear mounted 3PH lever

I drove through a Kioti dealer today to see how the 3 point hitch rear mounted activation lever was set up and it and the standard location lever were a maze of levers and linkages, actually kind of over engineered and complicated. Looked at mine when I got home and woah !! My kubota could not...

www.orangetractortalks.com

You might be able to use some type of cable system.