What’s the likelyhood that the engine is going to run, if two more shims are placed under the injector pump?
The shim is very thin metal, they put under it, 3 of them does not add any actual height, I take picture now and show you
Here are three of them that come out, looking in pile of parts, there could have been more in there
and they did have gasket maker on it when i removed it
@hagrid and
@Henro
yes i listen, i did not know how important that detail is
in the video, you see it is not enough of leak to make puddle underneath, but it is coming down gearcase, small amount
we see what it look like once I get back to it in couple hour
I might do 2 shim and some rtv, tiny bit
plan once I get back: figure out injection pump leak, take off radiator, paint engine one last time, thin coat
I should have time to do more progress, thinking of which way to go: maybe put all the wheels back on, I know the seat is torn, but is salveable,
If I had kubota orange, today would have been a good day to clean, paint orange parts, then install them
another task: after painting and fixing seal, start to build the area that hold battery and air cleaner, install them, hook up wiring on alternator and put good battery,
later once I get back to it, nature tell us the correct way to go
big narrative for those that want the GOLD, and i mean literally
the amount of energy I have wasted putting it back together so many times, I could have built 4 or of these engines
one little detail could have given you the gold:
as you put together fully clean engine, you use finger to dab gasket maker on all the coupling areas of potential leakage,
that little dab on your finger of rtv is the difference between:
you give up on the engine because too much work to take it apart again and
woah, that machine running, creating wealth, shaping the earth, not leaking with zero issue, or
if you are selling it, customer show up and see it idling harmoniously, and the paint is so beautiful on the engine, nothing is leaking to ruin that beautiful paint, customer happy to hand you GOLD
This is last day to work on it, then we continue in 3 week
@D2Cat
yes when I get back to it, we look though pile of parts, I did save them all, there could have been more in there, I remember it being unusual
@whitetiger
when breaking in engine, I am trying to run it as low as possible without it shutting down, I do not have rpm gauge to look at, only oil pressure to judge its rpm
take off intake manifold, picture is after running 5 hours yesterday, i did not clean or hit with air
plan: clean area perfectly, get engine running, shine light, find the culprit, maybe spray soapy water
use small brush to apply part cleaner
hit with compressed air
leak found
exact step to find leak: hit with compressed, brush area with solvent, hit again with compressed air, shine light and use pointy object
It is an oil like like wolf stated
observation for today cold start and idle: she started even easier, seesaw idle going away, sitting at 38 psi oil pressure
I guess break in is a real thing, engine went through one big hot cold cycle, and bearings etc are shaping their way,
kinda like we get comfortable to sit down for long time to watch movie
youtube.com
ok, clip 20 minute after last clip, show you that leak is tiny on injection pump seat,
am i only one that notice, she has less resistence than yesterday? She move through her motion less interrupted...
empty water, remove radiator, remove injection pump
took out injection pump, leak along top left of shim, making its way downward toward gearcase
area on injection that couple with leaking area on engine, notice it is more oil than other area
seal leak surgically, repaint engine, reassemble one last time
idea that would eliminate all worry, eliminate all doubt and wasted energy:
Buid something where you assemble engine fully, without putting onto tractor
Assemble engine, give it diesel, run water lines away, then start it and get it up to working temp
Reveal all the leaks, do all your surgeries right there without engine on tractor, once you have zero leak,
do your perfect paint job, slap entire engine onto tractor
Full blown assurance that you wont have to take it apart 6 times
I know this is advanced, but I am sure dinosaur have way to finangle something for next d1301 build (starting november possibly)
original shims from this build, clean them in solvent, sand them with 1000 grit, clean their seat on block with 1000 grit, dab a little gasket maker on edges, make sure you place injection pump latch into its position properly...
filed all surfaces using abrasives of all kind, clean everything with solvent
had to take out cubby hole again to make sure:
when injection pump fall into place, you must ensure the latch is in the fork properly, or it will cause runaway like it did on first start up
I try to show you how you seal the engine, without any doubt, all surface primed for sealer properly, finger spread gasket maker across all surface, bulletproof way to build engine (where you could have leak)
after taking this picture, i notice the shims were on backward, slot to accomodate latch should be on bottom right
surgical seal complete, tiny bit gasket maker on all surface, finger applying it on perfect clean surface
imagine that it come back to life without any leak, and that the 4 shim make it idle even better
Now: install intake manifold, reinstall injector line, spray with part cleaner everything getting painted, hit with compressed air, hit with kubota blue
