Fixing hole in side of block

[RCW]

"Fluff & Buff" ?????
Am quite certain that is exactly what is going on here.

You say this almost daily without any information beyond your own opinion.

Say it enough times it must be true. We all saw it on the internet.

I suggest you not buy a used Kubota from North Viet Nam, Texas, or any other US State that could have a "panhandle."

 

[Ktrim]

Joe. How many head gaskets do you plan on going through?

 

[dragfan66]

I can't remember the term for it, but if you see a tractor that is advertised for sale, or other equipment for that matter, which has obviously been spray painted to make it look good, what is that called?

I mean when EVERYTHING is painted, like the fan and fan belt and exhaust system, and tubing leading to the injectors, and so on...

Lipstick on a pig is the term I always heard.

 

[jaxs]

I had an L2050 that the previous owner let freeze. This is what the oil pan looked like.

This raises a couple of questions. Were you able to repair it or was it bought for parts? Other question calls for opinion or best guess. Do you think engine froze TWICE, once when something cracked allowing water to enter pan after it thawed then a second time when water in pan froze cracking pan?

 

[fried1765]

This raises a couple of questions. Were you able to repair it or was it bought for parts? Other question calls for opinion or best guess. Do you think engine froze TWICE, once when something cracked allowing water to enter pan after it thawed then a second time when water in pan froze cracking pan?

What you say certainly does make sense.

 

[jaxs]

Joe. How many head gaskets do you plan on going through?

Shouldn't require more than one providing he cleans the gasket with brush, diesel and compressed air before each use. Might help to coat gasket with JB Weld.

 

[Russell King]

@joesmith123

While the JBWeld is a fix I am not sure how long that will last due to heat. On the exhaust I am pretty certain that will fail in the near future but that will be a reasonably easy repair since it is in the open. At the cover to block junction it will work better and could last forever since that area won’t get as hot. But since it is just right there NOW I think you should consider a better repair. But on the other hand even if it leaks some you would probably be able to live with that leak.

I would suggest that you could “easily?” loosen all the cover bolts and pull it away from the block enough to install a “gasket maker” like the red material you used on the speed control cover or Permatex 85080 Ultra Black. I have never used them on a “dirty” surface like would be involved in this case so they might not be any better than what you are trying.

And if water is leaking where you put the latest JB Weld patch, is there supposed to be water inside that case? I don’t think so but have lost track of where you had water and oil leakage. I think that there is a plug (normally referred to as a freeze plug) in the block (behind the cover) that may be leaking or has gotten out of position. You may want to review pictures of that end of the block to see what may be leaking IF in fact there is really only supposed to be oil in that case area.

On some engines in some places there are bolts that thread into a hole that is open to water so the water will leak into the “dry area” around the threads. In those cases you can apply a sealant to the threads of the bolts before you thread them into the hole. It is similar to putting pipe dope on a threaded pipe connection to seal it. I normally used Permatex #2 since that was “best” when I was doing my projects in the past (long ago). I wouldn’t use the RTV type since they would glue the bolt to the block and make it more likely to break the bolt during a future removal.

Good luck and the engine sounds good when running.

 

[D2Cat]

This raises a couple of questions. Were you able to repair it or was it bought for parts? Other question calls for opinion or best guess. Do you think engine froze TWICE, once when something cracked allowing water to enter pan after it thawed then a second time when water in pan froze cracking pan?

I bought it not know what would happen with it, just a bargain I couldn't pass up. I did some fixen and put it all back together. New oil pan, new clutch (you've probably seen picture on here of the rusted out clutch), a freeze plug or two, water pump. I don't really remember it all. North Idaho Wolfman found the oil pan for me on the internet for like $85. Had it for a while and eventually sold it.

 

[D2Cat]

@joesmith123

While the JBWeld is a fix I am not sure how long that will last due to heat. On the exhaust I am pretty certain that will fail in the near future but that will be a reasonably easy repair since it is in the open. At the cover to block junction it will work better and could last forever since that area won’t get as hot. But since it is just right there NOW I think you should consider a better repair. But on the other hand even if it leaks some you would probably be able to live with that leak.

I would suggest that you could “easily?” loosen all the cover bolts and pull it away from the block enough to install a “gasket maker” like the red material you used on the speed control cover or Permatex 85080 Ultra Black. I have never used them on a “dirty” surface like would be involved in this case so they might not be any better than what you are trying.

And if water is leaking where you put the latest JB Weld patch, is there supposed to be water inside that case? I don’t think so but have lost track of where you had water and oil leakage. I think that there is a plug (normally referred to as a freeze plug) in the block (behind the cover) that may be leaking or has gotten out of position. You may want to review pictures of that end of the block to see what may be leaking IF in fact there is really only sup to be oil in that case area.

On some engines in some places there are bolts that thread into a hole that is open to water so the water will leak into the “dry area” around the threads. In those cases you can apply a sealant to the threads of the bolts before you thread them into the hole. It is similar to putting pipe dope on a threaded pipe connection to seal it. I normally used Permatex #2 since that was “best” when I was doing my projects in the past (long ago). I wouldn’t use the RTV type since they would glue the bolt to the block and make it more likely to break the bolt during a future removal.

Good luck and the engine sounds good when running.

That paragraph there is critical. It's usually easy to tell by the rust on the end of the bolt, but don't take it for granted! Good to point it out. Most would overlook it, until it's too late.

 

[joesmith123]

Found the culprit, surgically seal engine

I point to the area of visible leak when assembled, but

study the travel of water across different parts of gasket

looking at head, pointing with blade where the leak was

plane both surfaces, clean them perfectly, use tiny bit of red rtv along with same gasket, seal it perfectly with intent

not in hurry to put it back together, clean all bad paint, install new springs, etc

Hit flange with file, then cutting disc, then hand sand with 600 grit, dip in diesel

Soak entire head in diesel with big brush, hit leaking area with stripping disc on angle grinder, file the area, put clamps on head, hitting it with 6 inch wire wheel on polisher, stripping away paint, hitting it hard with compressed air

Now: finish hitting both part with wire wheel, clean them with part cleaner, then

using gasket maker and the recycled gasket, surgically seal them and let them cure,

put some plumbing tape on the bolts, tighten them to about 25 foot pound, maybe 30

let it cure over night

Pictures: these are all the mating surfaces where leak present, fully clean, ready to seal

I point to area that had some gear case damage during removal

put nice bead of jb weld now

Hit whole area with 6 inch wire wheel doused in diesel, 1000 rpm

Now: slice rest of hour meter, clean area, put bead of jb weld on gearcase damage and sliced hour meter

 

[D2Cat]

Looks to me like it's leaked between the two holes that are the closest together.

 

[joesmith123]

Surgically sealing engine

Put bead jb weld using flat chisel, wipe excess

Slice hour meter, dab in jb weld

Now: take out governor, remove spring, install new springs,

Imagining that the new springs make a difference and give that perfect idle and control

Surgically seal water port attachment to head, use red RTV gasket maker and gasket

Start spring, new and old

Carefully install without dropping into gear area

Installed start spring

New governor spring left, install it now

installed springs perfectly, without stretching at all, resealed area

I point to more gear case damage, might as well jb weld that area, wasnt leaking but might as well

Perfect bead on all surface using finger, surgically sealing engine

 

[hagrid]

Very surgical.

 

[Chanceywd]

Looks to me like it's leaked between the two holes that are the closest together.

Do you mean on the block? It looked to me on the block like the cleaning methods have rounded the normal sharp edges of the holes , The picture with the pliers looks like that cover isn't even touching at the top and you can see 2 heavy chisel ? marks which have probably made a bump on the sealing surface area.
Hard to tell from pictures but those seem to be jumping out at me.

Bill

 

[fried1765]

Do you mean on the block? It looked to me on the block like the cleaning methods have rounded the normal sharp edges of the holes , The picture with the pliers looks like that cover isn't even touching at the top and you can see 2 heavy chisel ? marks which have probably made a bump on the sealing surface area.
Hard to tell from pictures but those seem to be jumping out at me.

Bill

A "shade tree" overhaul, that should actually be redefined as a sand pit overhaul!

 

[Henro]

A "shade tree" overhaul, that should actually be redefined as a sand pit overhaul!

I wanted to give your post a smiley...not a hard laugh emoji, but a smiley is not an option here...

Fried1765, you and Joe share a similar trait!

You never stop!

 

[Workerbee]

I wanted to give your post a smiley...not a hard laugh emoji, but a smiley is not an option here...

Fried1765, you and Joe share a similar trait!


You never stop!

But only one seems to be an ah!

 

[DustyRusty]

I wanted to give your post a smiley...not a hard laugh emoji, but a smiley is not an option here...

Fried1765, you and Joe share a similar trait!

You never stop!

The pot calling the kettle black!

 

[joesmith123]

Very surgical.

I burst out laughing when seeing this

Yes, when i say surgical, I am making escalated effort, with every file, tool, method, solvent, to ensure no leaking

I listen to all your statements ever since you made the "capillary" comment during weld training earlier in this thread

That one word, I thought about it for 2 days, comprehending what you meant

You never stop!

I tell you truth: @fried1765 and @jaxs have carried this thread, and have brought much good data from the dinosaurs, and arguably

Are the ones that jumpstarted this project that brought engine back to life

Also, they see themselves in this thread, the challenge of it they experienced previously, I am putting a mirror up to them with every shiny metal picture

I honestly think fried is secretly on joe smith side, playing 4d chess with yall, getting yall to share the sauce with joe smith

isn't even touching at the top and you can see 2 heavy chisel ? marks which have probably made a bump on the sealing surface area.

Yes I comprehend have no worry,

sealing methods are very promising,

When I had take out cubby hole to put in new springs, it was HARD to get off the cubby hole, bolts were hand tight, and there was no leak

The cubby hole had that red gasket maker

The surgical cleaning and solvents and wire wheeling, plus the gasket maker and the jb weld, its possible to stop all leak, and I mean permamently

Soon: file away all the glues and jb weld on all the surfaces that mated, clean and hit everything with air and other cleaners, then

I guess rig it up and see if water leak still present

mistake: at this point, I am not going to "rig" it up, I am assembling it with the thought and imagation that there wont be leak, and I wont have take it apart again, bolts permanently fastened

I make big bet with the forum and myself:

On the next d1301 assembly, I bet forum that I assemble it ONCE and have zero leak, and pefect idle

In one shot, no mistake, no taking head off 3 times, parts installed in the proper order...

I INVITE all doubt that this is possible and will happen, the more doubt that people have of your ability, the harder you rebutt with:

Hold my beer

The more others doubt you, the more urgent you are insisting on your helper to hold your beer

We are not urgently insisting that our helper to hold our beer UNLESS there is big doubt coming from the crowd...

Soak it all in diesel, keep fixing paint mistake, wire wheel everything, cleaning gasket material, file down jb weld

40 pages into this thread, and the closing tool in the arsenal is:

Cheapest file set at walmart, unbelievable

up close gearcase jb weld seal job and removal of paint in that area, made sure top of engine block planed

Up close of water leak after major surgery, filing off excess gasket maker, hit hard with wire wheel

40 page into thread: you are meek japanese man, filing away at work of art until it is proper

 

[Ktrim]

Shouldn't require more than one providing he cleans the gasket with brush, diesel and compressed air before each use. Might help to coat gasket with JB Weld.