Fixing hole in side of block
- Thread starter joesmith123
- Start date
ken erickson
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100 hst, 2650 front mount snowblower, L2501 hst qa loader
This quote from Joe makes me think of the Peter Sellers movie, “being there”. Something the Peter Sellers character might say.
Joe,
More power to you, carry on and I am enjoying your thread no matter the final outcome!
Parts fully clean, ready for reassembly
Now: imagine it come back together perfectly without leak
lay head gasket on block, lift heavy head and lay on it, get bolts in hand tight, on and on
Recycle new head gasket, don't forget little o ring bottom right
Head back on, glance at diagram, emulate perfectly
Fasten head, stud bolts top right and bottom left per diagram, perfect washer on all bolt
now: install phaser, do not forget any hardware, then exhaust, maybe use gasket maker seal it perfect,
finish installing all part in proper order up to radiator
had to dig deep into spare part bin to find all the bolt for intake manifold, long time since they have been in use
installed phaser, then cover, all proper hardware,
now: file exhaust manifold and install with the gasket (did not have leak last time, not using rtv since it is really high temp area), fasten diesel lines to injectors
then maybe: run it once not too long, looking for oil leaks and water leaks, before putting belt/alternator/up front parts...
no, cant run it because i would have surgically bind water pump and let cure,
Get up to that point, get engine ready for leak test, let cure overnight
Install alternator, diesel line, exhaust,
Ready to surgically couple gearcase to water pump
Clean both surface, apply on gearcase with right finger, focus around studs, put on clean gasket, again use finger to apply perfectly, then couple water pump, fasten, run finger across entire bead, wipe excess, surgical seal
let it cure overnight, engine fully ready for leak test
imagining that engine come back to life and all leak eliminated and perfect idle
Now: imagine it come back together perfectly without leak
lay head gasket on block, lift heavy head and lay on it, get bolts in hand tight, on and on
Recycle new head gasket, don't forget little o ring bottom right
Head back on, glance at diagram, emulate perfectly
Fasten head, stud bolts top right and bottom left per diagram, perfect washer on all bolt
now: install phaser, do not forget any hardware, then exhaust, maybe use gasket maker seal it perfect,
finish installing all part in proper order up to radiator
had to dig deep into spare part bin to find all the bolt for intake manifold, long time since they have been in use
installed phaser, then cover, all proper hardware,
now: file exhaust manifold and install with the gasket (did not have leak last time, not using rtv since it is really high temp area), fasten diesel lines to injectors
then maybe: run it once not too long, looking for oil leaks and water leaks, before putting belt/alternator/up front parts...
no, cant run it because i would have surgically bind water pump and let cure,
Get up to that point, get engine ready for leak test, let cure overnight
Install alternator, diesel line, exhaust,
Ready to surgically couple gearcase to water pump
Clean both surface, apply on gearcase with right finger, focus around studs, put on clean gasket, again use finger to apply perfectly, then couple water pump, fasten, run finger across entire bead, wipe excess, surgical seal
let it cure overnight, engine fully ready for leak test
imagining that engine come back to life and all leak eliminated and perfect idle
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Two thoughts I feel compelled to throw in at this point....
Sealing items from the outside is great from rain protection, but worthless if leaks are coming from within.
Head gasket is a onetime use only, regardless if factory or China made. Once it is torqued, the seals are compressed and will never recover.
Sealing items from the outside is great from rain protection, but worthless if leaks are coming from within.
Head gasket is a onetime use only, regardless if factory or China made. Once it is torqued, the seals are compressed and will never recover.
Joe gave me credit for promoting this longest thread in history,I'll not let you steal the thunder at this stage of the game. Pay him no mind Joe, just carry on as you were.
Dag nap it, don't you know all that "can't work" stuff was covered more than 700 posts back. If you mess around and cause Joe to go spend a bunch of money for new parts or abandon this project you'll have some mad folks
on your hands.fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I absolutely disagree!I wanted to give your post a smiley...not a hard laugh emoji, but a smiley is not an option here...
Fried1765, you and Joe share a similar trait!
You never stop!
Start it, see if she leak
Put water in it, put top plug on not too tight,
Get it started, run it until water start to boil
Yes, in this clip, you witness COLD start
2 cheap almost dead batteries, gave it 2 minute glow plug
Start up on first compression
No leak except for TINY diesel leak under injection pump
water on it was from when I pour water into engine
In this clip, engine a bit warmer, going through with air looking for leak, no leak except injection pump
Also, lowest I got oil pressure without it shutting off, but it did in the end
There you have it, old thick japanese diesel engine, purring like cat, with no leak
(the rebuild of this diesel was brought to you by nature)
not end of world but huge mistake
we look inside cubby hole of bell housing, we see oil leak
Should have waited for the new japanese seal and not reused 44 year old seal
Its not as much work as you think: split tractor, take off flywheel/clutch/etc
That leak I leave it there for now, its good for that area to get lubed
in this clip, engine started even easier than before, engine bit warmer
got oil pressure down to close to 30 with it shutting down, unbelieveable
One thing make idle better is loosening the idle adjustment, maybe loosen it more
I did spot TINY oozing from right side head gasket, let it simmer and see how bad she get, if surgery required not a big deal...
my instinct: stop being perfectionist, its good enough, finish assembly, put on radiator, put big amount water, run it long time like wolf suggesting, then come back and reassess next step...
yes yes I listen, grind down excess gasket maker, clean area, put together belt alternator radiator, fill with water, then do long test, no paint, no other decision until we get to that step
this adjustment: i keep backing out, it keep making better idle
Copper radiator thirsty, took two gallon water
Run for 45 minute, got idle oil pressure down to 38 psi
Action: run it as low throttle as possible without it shutting off, assess oil pressure fluxation, then intentionally shut her off, make small adjustment on that idle screw,
she start right back up no glow plug, first shot
idle getting better by itself, it went down to 30 psi, and saved it itself without my adjustment
maybe this is what they call engine breaking in
youtu.be
No more see saw
after this video, i got it down to stay at 38 psi, anything lower than that, she shut off after 1 or 2 minute
maybe this is as good as I can get her to idle?
Ran it so far 2-3 hour, zero puddle of any kind underneath, only tiny injection pump leak, and small main seal leak
@Russell King
I think it is called that or valve body, the top of head thar control valves, I adjusted them to .009 inches 5 or 10 pages ago
youtu.be
Put water in it, put top plug on not too tight,
Get it started, run it until water start to boil
Yes, in this clip, you witness COLD start
2 cheap almost dead batteries, gave it 2 minute glow plug
Start up on first compression
No leak except for TINY diesel leak under injection pump
water on it was from when I pour water into engine
In this clip, engine a bit warmer, going through with air looking for leak, no leak except injection pump
Also, lowest I got oil pressure without it shutting off, but it did in the end
There you have it, old thick japanese diesel engine, purring like cat, with no leak
(the rebuild of this diesel was brought to you by nature)
not end of world but huge mistake
we look inside cubby hole of bell housing, we see oil leak
Should have waited for the new japanese seal and not reused 44 year old seal
Its not as much work as you think: split tractor, take off flywheel/clutch/etc
That leak I leave it there for now, its good for that area to get lubed
in this clip, engine started even easier than before, engine bit warmer
got oil pressure down to close to 30 with it shutting down, unbelieveable
One thing make idle better is loosening the idle adjustment, maybe loosen it more
I did spot TINY oozing from right side head gasket, let it simmer and see how bad she get, if surgery required not a big deal...
my instinct: stop being perfectionist, its good enough, finish assembly, put on radiator, put big amount water, run it long time like wolf suggesting, then come back and reassess next step...
yes yes I listen, grind down excess gasket maker, clean area, put together belt alternator radiator, fill with water, then do long test, no paint, no other decision until we get to that step
this adjustment: i keep backing out, it keep making better idle
Copper radiator thirsty, took two gallon water
Run for 45 minute, got idle oil pressure down to 38 psi
Action: run it as low throttle as possible without it shutting off, assess oil pressure fluxation, then intentionally shut her off, make small adjustment on that idle screw,
she start right back up no glow plug, first shot
idle getting better by itself, it went down to 30 psi, and saved it itself without my adjustment
maybe this is what they call engine breaking in
October 12, 2024
youtu.be
No more see saw
after this video, i got it down to stay at 38 psi, anything lower than that, she shut off after 1 or 2 minute
maybe this is as good as I can get her to idle?
Ran it so far 2-3 hour, zero puddle of any kind underneath, only tiny injection pump leak, and small main seal leak
@Russell King
I think it is called that or valve body, the top of head thar control valves, I adjusted them to .009 inches 5 or 10 pages ago
October 12, 2024
youtu.be
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Duly noted until I feel like posting another tip or comment.Joe gave me credit for promoting this longest thread in history,I'll not let you steal the thunder at this stage of the game. Pay him no mind Joe, just carry on as you were.
Dag nap it, don't you know all that "can't work" stuff was covered more than 700 posts back. If you mess around and cause Joe to go spend a bunch of money for new parts or abandon this project you'll have some mad folks
This retired geezer is enjoying this excursion immensely, learned some things along the way too.
You can't find me to whoop me because my location is Earth too.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
This thread is really became a DO NOT DO THIS thread!
I really think your trying to get the engine to fail.
Running it without the rest of the colling system in place and working is a fools folly!
Because your not circulating the water it's making hot spots and it will eventually fail somewhere!
I really think your trying to get the engine to fail.
Running it without the rest of the colling system in place and working is a fools folly!
Because your not circulating the water it's making hot spots and it will eventually fail somewhere!
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Also: Do not forget......
Recommended minimum compression is 325psi.
Tested maximum compression was reported as 300psi.
Is there a clue here about longevity potential?
Hello Joe,
the orange sealer gunk you are using certainly has its applications although I have to say I cannot remember when I used it last.
It's purpose is to fill tiny imperfections in the surface. If you think you have to use it apply a paper thin layer, not more. Remember: the same amount squeezed out on the outside in your pictures is also squeezed out on the inside. It clings to the engine by a very fine thread. If ripped away by fluid motion and deposited inside a cooling channel your engine is in big trouble.
Also (as said already) applying it outside is no good whatsoever for sealing leaks. Wipe off everything on the outside. If it is silicone material paint will not stick to it. You can also get it in grey or black colour.
Kind regards,
Hugo
the orange sealer gunk you are using certainly has its applications although I have to say I cannot remember when I used it last.
It's purpose is to fill tiny imperfections in the surface. If you think you have to use it apply a paper thin layer, not more. Remember: the same amount squeezed out on the outside in your pictures is also squeezed out on the inside. It clings to the engine by a very fine thread. If ripped away by fluid motion and deposited inside a cooling channel your engine is in big trouble.
Also (as said already) applying it outside is no good whatsoever for sealing leaks. Wipe off everything on the outside. If it is silicone material paint will not stick to it. You can also get it in grey or black colour.
Kind regards,
Hugo
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Ktrim
Well-known member
Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
The whole project has been "its good enough " where was the part where you were a perfectionist? I missed it
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
@joesmith123
You have used the word “phaser“ a few times.
You said it again in your last post or two and I copied it here:
“had to dig deep into spare part bin to find all the bolt for intake manifold, long time since they have been in use
installed phaser, then cover, all proper hardware,”
What exactly are you referring to as “phaser”?
You have used the word “phaser“ a few times.
You said it again in your last post or two and I copied it here:
“had to dig deep into spare part bin to find all the bolt for intake manifold, long time since they have been in use
installed phaser, then cover, all proper hardware,”
What exactly are you referring to as “phaser”?
How long do you think that the crack on the fan blade is going to hold together? I can see an expensive radiator repair in your future.
Ktrim
Well-known member
Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Probably about as long as it takes for that hose that's bulged to blow.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
That fan likely has the same life expectancy as the engine itself.
Fix small leak, paint engine, onward
Video: this is current state, incrementally dropping throttle, showing you oil pressure, showing you the leak situation, or lack thereof
i guess 40 psi for an idling engine with 1.5 gallons of oil init is normal
maybe once in the working state, and more hot, idle oil pressure further down, i've noticed that on other machine
Engine ran for 5 hour today, break in period. Open coolant, look fine
After running engine 10-12 hours, oil still full
Although rear main seal leak present, not big enough yet to need surgery
now that big leaks are solved and idle is solved, and whatever else
take off radiator one more time, take off injection pump, put another 2 shim under it and use that gasket maker, surgical style
when removed, i do remember 3 shims or more that were there, I only installed one kubota shim
plan: take off radiator, take off injection pump, do surgery on injection pump leak, give engine one last thin coat of kubota blue, reassemble one last time
at that point then proceed forward with rebuild
Main bearing case bolt for other d1301 build on the way
Sadly, budget allow only one more day on this job, continuing in about 3 week
Video: this is current state, incrementally dropping throttle, showing you oil pressure, showing you the leak situation, or lack thereof
i guess 40 psi for an idling engine with 1.5 gallons of oil init is normal
maybe once in the working state, and more hot, idle oil pressure further down, i've noticed that on other machine
Engine ran for 5 hour today, break in period. Open coolant, look fine
After running engine 10-12 hours, oil still full
Although rear main seal leak present, not big enough yet to need surgery
now that big leaks are solved and idle is solved, and whatever else
take off radiator one more time, take off injection pump, put another 2 shim under it and use that gasket maker, surgical style
when removed, i do remember 3 shims or more that were there, I only installed one kubota shim
plan: take off radiator, take off injection pump, do surgery on injection pump leak, give engine one last thin coat of kubota blue, reassemble one last time
at that point then proceed forward with rebuild
Main bearing case bolt for other d1301 build on the way
Sadly, budget allow only one more day on this job, continuing in about 3 week
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