Fixing hole in side of block
- Thread starter joesmith123
- Start date
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
@joesmith123
in the video when it first started (in your post #603) I noticed that the whole fuel limit assembly was unscrewing when it ran. So I assume that it is really loose and needs to be properly adjusted and then tightened up. How is that done? I have no idea!
in the video when it first started (in your post #603) I noticed that the whole fuel limit assembly was unscrewing when it ran. So I assume that it is really loose and needs to be properly adjusted and then tightened up. How is that done? I have no idea!
Got rest of parts close to clean and then paint
Got 2 pallets close to tractor, brought all parts that need blue including front axle using 3 point lift on bx1500
@Russell King
in this image, I try to show yall how that adjustment works; that nut adjust the point that stop the fork from going too far forward
I think I pulled it out too far, and it allowed the fork to go too far forward, and let the pin on the injection pump come OUT of its slot
What happens if I try to run it with this port open, and the other port that shows the injection pump latch? That way, I can monitor what happens and we can get to solving this area
My suspicion: if idling and not too high rpm, it shouldn't be pushing out too much oil out of these ports and it should be possible to make the idle adjustment with these ports open
I know we saw oil come out of them during the runaway but maybe thats because the rpm was high and oil pressure very high
Move parts to pallet in shade, first cleaning: brush them with diesel brush, get the big stuff with files, hit with compressed air
Files and brush in bucket of diesel
Upgrade to the solvent puddle: if left open, it evaporate and is lost
I put in jar that closes, now it last longer and keep close when you need clean hand
Hit parts to paint with: compressed air with file, then soaked in diesel with big paint brush, then wire wheels
Lift axle with bx1500, do that cleaning I narrated
Hit front axle with everything
All parts ready to be painted blue
Paint gun: 32 ounce canister
Next: hit everything with compressed air, part cleaner, poke hole in enamel blue gallon, pour into paint canister, water it down with paint thinner, go through and hit all parts from all angle, small mist no runs
I haven't looked at paint, hopefully it match
Got 2 pallets close to tractor, brought all parts that need blue including front axle using 3 point lift on bx1500
@Russell King
in this image, I try to show yall how that adjustment works; that nut adjust the point that stop the fork from going too far forward
I think I pulled it out too far, and it allowed the fork to go too far forward, and let the pin on the injection pump come OUT of its slot
What happens if I try to run it with this port open, and the other port that shows the injection pump latch? That way, I can monitor what happens and we can get to solving this area
My suspicion: if idling and not too high rpm, it shouldn't be pushing out too much oil out of these ports and it should be possible to make the idle adjustment with these ports open
I know we saw oil come out of them during the runaway but maybe thats because the rpm was high and oil pressure very high
Move parts to pallet in shade, first cleaning: brush them with diesel brush, get the big stuff with files, hit with compressed air
Files and brush in bucket of diesel
Upgrade to the solvent puddle: if left open, it evaporate and is lost
I put in jar that closes, now it last longer and keep close when you need clean hand
Hit parts to paint with: compressed air with file, then soaked in diesel with big paint brush, then wire wheels
Lift axle with bx1500, do that cleaning I narrated
Hit front axle with everything
All parts ready to be painted blue
Paint gun: 32 ounce canister
Next: hit everything with compressed air, part cleaner, poke hole in enamel blue gallon, pour into paint canister, water it down with paint thinner, go through and hit all parts from all angle, small mist no runs
I haven't looked at paint, hopefully it match
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Spread all parts on pallets, hit with cleaner then paint
Spread all parts on 3 pallets close to tractor
Took off more from engine, hit it one more time with 6 inch soft wire wheel, 1000 rpm
Back of tractor before cleaning and paint
youtube.com
Up close video of everything after 1 hit of part cleaner
Put tape over area you don't want paint
Enamel, paint thinner, drill holes in paint can, mix into canister
First coat
@Ktrim
Paint gallon is shown in picture next to paint thinner, match perfect
Put 2nd coat on everything, going through with headlight aiming paint gun up underneath machine, watch your fingers
Don't use all the paint, tomorrow flip all the parts etc and get the other side
Put 2nd coat on everything, still half gallon left of paint, put coat of black paint on air housing
Now that paint detour done, now I need put energy into planning forward:
hone in on the governor/injection pump latch/fork situation/front adjustment
I'm thinking: take out governor spring to remove the cover, try to pry up forks so it hold the latch better, if you cannot pry up fork, take out injection pump to get better leverage on the fork
Front adjustment bolt: I remember taking it out completely, I did alter the adjustment, I would need to either look at WSM and tinker with it until it is figured out
There is another adjustment, on the other side, that also has spring on it, that one was not touched
They even put plastic cover over them to keep them in place
Plan: get it to where the latch stay inside the fork, tinker with the front adjustment until you get it somewhat in its place, put intake manifold on for the choke plan like yall advise, try to get her started again with those ports open to keep eye on the latch of the injection pump, making sure it stay in the fork and not go right/full throttle, then
if successfully started and not running away, then make adjustment on the front pin that stop the fork front going too far forward, get it to idle at the desired rate
Huge task yall can advise on, I have been thinking about this for awhile, but recently have needed it.
I have 55 gallon barrels, they have thread on them, one big and one small to let air out. I want to use them as holders of different solvent, and would have a sealed line coming out of them and it would go to a lightweight small hose gun that I use to do whatever.
The hose would retract from high area so it stays off the ground, it would be small and lightweight, it would go far distance. Does not have to be high pressure. I can use small pump.
They would be holding solvent, plumbing coming out of them, going to a central pump, with switches depending on which tank I want to pull from. Also to fill them up, I take pickup truck and get get the solvent, and I want a way to pump out of them and into the barrel I want without too much effort/mess.
Tons of time/energy is wasted so far on this project these past few months in the handling of the solvent, tipping over barrels, carrying 5 gallon cans, etc. It is inefficient and it would help move the show forward.
Talk to me generally about this setup. Going into the barrels, it would need a siphon that pulls from bottom of barrel. How would setup the shaft that is tight to the line, and also screws onto the top of the barrel? I soon draw diagram outlining the whole thing.
Also, it is important for it to be easy to fill them back up without taking out all the plumbing
Spread all parts on 3 pallets close to tractor
Took off more from engine, hit it one more time with 6 inch soft wire wheel, 1000 rpm
Back of tractor before cleaning and paint
September 25, 2024
youtube.com
Up close video of everything after 1 hit of part cleaner
Put tape over area you don't want paint
Enamel, paint thinner, drill holes in paint can, mix into canister
First coat
@Ktrim
Paint gallon is shown in picture next to paint thinner, match perfect
Put 2nd coat on everything, going through with headlight aiming paint gun up underneath machine, watch your fingers
Don't use all the paint, tomorrow flip all the parts etc and get the other side
Put 2nd coat on everything, still half gallon left of paint, put coat of black paint on air housing
Now that paint detour done, now I need put energy into planning forward:
hone in on the governor/injection pump latch/fork situation/front adjustment
I'm thinking: take out governor spring to remove the cover, try to pry up forks so it hold the latch better, if you cannot pry up fork, take out injection pump to get better leverage on the fork
Front adjustment bolt: I remember taking it out completely, I did alter the adjustment, I would need to either look at WSM and tinker with it until it is figured out
There is another adjustment, on the other side, that also has spring on it, that one was not touched
They even put plastic cover over them to keep them in place
Plan: get it to where the latch stay inside the fork, tinker with the front adjustment until you get it somewhat in its place, put intake manifold on for the choke plan like yall advise, try to get her started again with those ports open to keep eye on the latch of the injection pump, making sure it stay in the fork and not go right/full throttle, then
if successfully started and not running away, then make adjustment on the front pin that stop the fork front going too far forward, get it to idle at the desired rate
Huge task yall can advise on, I have been thinking about this for awhile, but recently have needed it.
I have 55 gallon barrels, they have thread on them, one big and one small to let air out. I want to use them as holders of different solvent, and would have a sealed line coming out of them and it would go to a lightweight small hose gun that I use to do whatever.
The hose would retract from high area so it stays off the ground, it would be small and lightweight, it would go far distance. Does not have to be high pressure. I can use small pump.
They would be holding solvent, plumbing coming out of them, going to a central pump, with switches depending on which tank I want to pull from. Also to fill them up, I take pickup truck and get get the solvent, and I want a way to pump out of them and into the barrel I want without too much effort/mess.
Tons of time/energy is wasted so far on this project these past few months in the handling of the solvent, tipping over barrels, carrying 5 gallon cans, etc. It is inefficient and it would help move the show forward.
Talk to me generally about this setup. Going into the barrels, it would need a siphon that pulls from bottom of barrel. How would setup the shaft that is tight to the line, and also screws onto the top of the barrel? I soon draw diagram outlining the whole thing.
Also, it is important for it to be easy to fill them back up without taking out all the plumbing
Last edited:
Ktrim
Well-known member
Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
What kind of paint?
I use off the shelf kubota paint 4:1 with xylene. Sprays nice
I use off the shelf kubota paint 4:1 with xylene. Sprays nice
Flip parts paint other side
Hit everything with compressed air
Flipped over everything
Go mix paint and apply
Moving metal to expose parts that need paint
2nd coat on everything, moved levers around getting small missed areas
Hit everything with compressed air
Flipped over everything
Go mix paint and apply
Moving metal to expose parts that need paint
2nd coat on everything, moved levers around getting small missed areas
Last edited:
Looks like a burglar/trespasser deterrent (aka booby trap)
to me. After that thing is finished with a man his pants will surely need to be hit hard with lots of laundry soap and hot water. 
Isn't that the wrong color for this vintage Kubota?
Lot's of hard work for sure!
A labor of love!
Lot's of hard work for sure!
A labor of love!
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I'm pretty sure that if YOU send Joe a pails of 'kolour korrect' paint, he'll repaint each and every piece, probably 5 or 6 posts from now !!!!
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I am much more interested in the function and longevity of Joe's engine, than the cosmetics of the engine!I'm pretty sure that if YOU send Joe a pails of 'kolour korrect' paint, he'll repaint each and every piece, probably 5 or 6 posts from now !!!!
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I zoom in on the fuel tank before painting, it was 100% factory
Painted fuel tank
Other tractor not painted yet
When paint applied onto it, it did not change color, only made it look new
I am pretty sure it is 100% the correct match paint
Hard work: not really, I can't think of anything that was hard to do yet on this project
The hardest thing so far was putting engine back on tractor
Today: move away painted parts that don't yet need installation, mess with the governor/latch
Also, install intake manifold so I can choke it if it runaway
Goal today: get it started and idle without runaway
Move axle without scratching paint
Moved all parts away, let them cure in sun on pallets
Chinese gasket on intake manifold
Idea: I get gearcase from other engine and emulate the thread count of that adjustment on the current engine
Main point I try to show you in video:
If latch goes too far left (lower throttle) is the problem that causes latch to climb over the fork
Noticed the nuts on front of that adjustment also came off, cannot use it for guidance
Video of where i got it now, notice the carbon buildup on latch, I want to set it to where carbon is visible, emulating it's factory state
Also notice the adjustment on left side, a spring and a similar style adjustment as front
Goal: tinker with both adjustments until latch is sitting the way it was factory
Can't get latch to sit factory
Plumb diesel, install filters and intake manifold
Try to run it like this, if she run away choke it out instantly with rag ready in pocket
Brought running pickup, connect all electrical including glow plug, let battery charge up
Soon: prime the diesel lines, give long power to glow plugs, setup camera for startup looking into injection pump latch
Found perfect cap to choke manifold
Got it to almost start
Pay attention to this video: notice latch jump left soon as it sputters, then when I try to crank again, nothing
Latch has to be more right for starting
Running but I had to babysit the throttle
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Joe, do you also train wild horses or are the panels on end to keep the dust down or privacy?
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Don’t rely on a rag! It can easily get sucked in the intake.
a plastic cup (not a solo cup but a reusable plastic glass). may be better suited or a rubber ball that is larger than the intake opening. Cut the cup length down so it could be jammed onto the intake opening. Use a hard rubber ball like a racquetball or handball. I would not use a tennis ball.
a plastic cup (not a solo cup but a reusable plastic glass). may be better suited or a rubber ball that is larger than the intake opening. Cut the cup length down so it could be jammed onto the intake opening. Use a hard rubber ball like a racquetball or handball. I would not use a tennis ball.
get the idle and the levers to control engine properly,
hone in on some leaks, I did see some near glow plugs and injectors,
Also do compression test on each cylinder, see if compression is higher when engine idling
factory spec: 450 psi
Turned on 2nd try with less than 1 minute of glowplug
This video: notice how it shut off when throttle is put into idle
it will run fine when throttle is about 20%
Also I showed you: temperature and oil pressure
Plan: keep adjusting front bolt until I can get it to idle properly, and shut off properly using that lever next to right knee
compression test while running: take off intake manifold, install the fittings into glow plug area, start it and record the psi
I also can paint: engine head where manifold go in, all the levers/steering wheel/gas cap black with spray can
Then if I get far enough, start to reassemble front end, radiator etc
Tried to do compression test with it running: it got past 400 then stopped working
Maybe the combustion or heat clogged it's ability to sense
Also cannot get it to stop doing seesaw effect:
Turn throttle up, rpm go up, put more pressure on springs, latch moves left, lowers throttle, lessens tension on springs, raises rpm
It will do this seesaw no matter what I adjust
Get new springs
Burned sensor cannot get compression reading when engine running
Can't do compression test with engine running
Start to reassemble front of tractor and all those painted parts, and do the final touch up of blue and black
Brought bunch of parts that will go on bottom of tractor: structural pieces, brackets, exhaust, shafts, etc
Tightened all bolts on top of engine and gearcase, all injectors and glow plug
Basically, assemble everything that doesn't cover the governor, work on other parts of tractor while waiting for new springs
Mistake: Forgot to put this water port, need to take head off again
Did not have to take off head, took off stud with 2 nuts, torch, and dabs of diesel on a brush
Went and fetched kubota gasket for flange
Mistake I didn't put flange on head before putting head on block
Getting ready to install lower parts: shafts, front end, exhaust, brackets
Lift tractor front, move support to underneath oil pan, put on front axle, put on propeller shaft, then exhaust, then brackets
Brought axle using 3 point lift
Put lumber position axle, use a jack to lift into place, put bolts in
Can't get axle in its position, might have to take off bracket, attach it to axle, then lift them together onto the tractor
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Good job. I wouldn't run it without coolant and air filter.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
