BT600 backhoe swings right but not back left

[DustyRusty]

What you state is correct for SOME women.
Most however,.......when told so, will believe that a muffler bearing should be greased every 10,000 miles.

Is a muffler bearing a real thing?


Muffler bearings extend a muffler's life and also reduces exhaust friction. This is very important for good fuel economy, and good power output. They maintain proper backpressure. If you aren't sure what muffler bearing you need for your car, just call up the local parts store and ask them.

 

[Henro]

Is a muffler bearing a real thing?


Muffler bearings extend a muffler's life and also reduces exhaust friction. This is very important for good fuel economy, and good power output. They maintain proper backpressure. If you aren't sure what muffler bearing you need for your car, just call up the local parts store and ask them.

Of course it is! You read it on the internet!

 

[DustyRusty]

Of course it is! You read it on the internet!

Actually, I was looking for the reference to "muffler bearings" as used back in the 1920s. Back then they called exhaust pipe size adapters "muffler bearings", but I can no longer find the original reference that I have about 10 years ago.

 

[DrankTheOrangeKoolaid]

If you can get a hold of a ball joint press (like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7CO50E ), it is an off schedule use, but you might be able to press the pin out.

 

[Tractor Gal]

If you can get a hold of a ball joint press (like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7CO50E ), it is an off schedule use, but you might be able to press the pin out.

DrankTheOrangeKoolaid, this has possibilities! I'm going to look into this. Would I have the umphh with a breaker bar? Maybe/maybe no. But, it would be worth a try. I'll need to measure the pin length to see if the clamp is wide enough. Thanks so much.

TG

 

[Chanceywd]

I bought one of those from Advance auto (I think it was) about 25 years ago. It has held up real well. I've used it a lot for changing universal joints mostly. Worked real good for that and if you can get it in there it just might be the ticket to move that pin. A breaker bar should work. once you get it moving a ratchet should. It would help if the opposite side is big enough to push the pin through without the other parts. that is how I do the universals. Is that pin an 1" or smaller?

Bill

 

[Tractor Gal]

I bought one of those from Advance auto (I think it was) about 25 years ago. It has held up real well. I've used it a lot for changing universal joints mostly. Worked real good for that and if you can get it in there it just might be the ticket to move that pin. A breaker bar should work. once you get it moving a ratchet should. It would help if the opposite side is big enough to push the pin through without the other parts. that is how I do the universals. Is that pin an 1" or smaller?

Bill

The pin is 3/4" diameter. My concern is for the width of the mouth of the C-clamp. That is the distance needed. I've been trying to find the dimensions of the ball joint presses available. Would you know the dimensions?

I see a 9" clamp on Amazon (which I hate to use) for $109. I'd be happy to buy it if I thought it would work.

Another concern is for the actual pressing strength. Because this pin is REALLY stuck, would the screwing bolt snap with that much pressure?

It appears that a socket or wrench would be used on the bottom of the device. Could the rachet or the wrench be bent when using a breaker bar for this amount of force? I have impact sockets but wouldn't use the driver for fear of breaking my wrist!

Inquiring mind....

TG

 

[#40Fan]

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7248-U-Joint-Removing-Installing/dp/B000OCFIAQ

If you scroll down to the questions, you'll see where someone replied with a working 6" of width.

 

[#40Fan]

To clarify, this is the pin you're trying to remove?

 

[Chanceywd]

Hey TG,
I measured my press and I don't think it is going to work for you. I hope you haven't ordered one yet.

The width of the press is a little over 6" and the hole on the opposite side is over an inch. The problem is the screw part of the unit is 1-1/8 thread. No way that is going to go thru your 3/4" pin hole. The pivot piece on the front of the screw is about 3/4 and if you had one to try it might break it loose if you have room on one side or the other for the 8" plus of the screw to start. Some auto parts stores around here will lend or rent you these kind of tools, maybe they do in your area.

If and it is a big if it would work to get it broke loose for you, you might be able to push it thru by backing off and putting some short pieces of say 5/8 rod or bolt each time what ever stroke you are able to push before it . Maybe some washers or nuts? Again it would depend on if the 6" width is enough and if you have room for the forcing screw underneath or on top.

One last Idea I had, is there an area right over the pin you could drill or hole saw in line so you could use a long punch and get a good swing on a hammer that way?

Bill

 

[Tractor Gal]

Hey TG,
I measured my press and I don't think it is going to work for you. I hope you haven't ordered one yet.

The width of the press is a little over 6" and the hole on the opposite side is over an inch. The problem is the screw part of the unit is 1-1/8 thread. No way that is going to go thru your 3/4" pin hole. The pivot piece on the front of the screw is about 3/4 and if you had one to try it might break it loose if you have room on one side or the other for the 8" plus of the screw to start. Some auto parts stores around here will lend or rent you these kind of tools, maybe they do in your area.

If and it is a big if it would work to get it broke loose for you, you might be able to push it thru by backing off and putting some short pieces of say 5/8 rod or bolt each time what ever stroke you are able to push before it . Maybe some washers or nuts? Again it would depend on if the 6" width is enough and if you have room for the forcing screw underneath or on top.

One last Idea I had, is there an area right over the pin you could drill or hole saw in line so you could use a long punch and get a good swing on a hammer that way?

Bill

Thanks for the good info, Bill. No, I hadn't bought one yet since I wasn't clear on dimensions. Glad I didn't jump too soon. I had also thought about trying to find a rental tool. There are some places that do that, so that's an option to follow. Drilling a hole in that platform is also another good idea. I don't see how that would be harmful but I'll have to look more closely. Getting the pin starting to move is all that I need. After that, it can worked in a lot of different ways.

Thanks again. I'll keep mulling, investigating, etc.

TG

 

[Tractor Gal]

To clarify, this is the pin you're trying to remove?

The diagram is a little confusing but it may be the pin. My actual visual is from the other side and from this diagram, with no platform or boom, I can't visualize. That said, I am not blonde. I'll go to Messick's to see the collection of parts diagrams.

TG

Edited: Went to Messick's and YES, that IS the troublesome pin.

 

[DustyRusty]

If you use a ball joint press, do not use anything other than hand tools to turn the acme screw, and make sure to lubricate the threads before you start. I have seen some expensive tools ruined by using impact guns on them.

 

[leveraddict]

What you state is correct for SOME women.
Most however,.......when told so, will believe that a muffler bearing should be greased every 10,000 miles.

Grow up! At 82 you think you would have learned some manners when chatting with a lady. Like most of your posts you are of no help. Just bored and on line all day. Step away from the computer and go get some fresh air. You need it!

 

[Smokeydog]

Similar intermittent problem with my M59. Suspect debris or air trapped in relief valve. Lost left swing and down boom. Operate several functions for a few minutes returns to normal operations.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I've kinda read this thread and it sounds like you want to remove pin #70, so that you can remove the cylinder to have it repaired....
I make two assumptions... 1) the pin was installed from the top down and 2) pin is now 'rust welded' in the mounting hole of the cylinder.

I'd , put a kittylitter box/ pan under the 'area of interest'. Then use the 50/50 mix of acetone/tranny oil and dribble it between the upper mount and the top of the cylinder, using an 'oil can' that has a pump squirter. Add more mix every hour. 1st thing in the morning , until beddyby time, whenever you have a free moment add more mix. do this for 2-3 days. Yes I know it doesn't look like progress BUT the idea is to get the mix DOWN the 'gap' between the pin and the cylinder, to 'wet' the rust and try to loosen it up. Hopefully after a day,or two..some of the mix HAS made it's way through the rust..
Then remove kittylitter pan, put bottle jack under the bottom of the pin. be 100% SURE the top of the jack is dead centered on the pin AND use a 'sacrificial' old socket between the jack and the pin. If the pin is 3/4", use 9/16" socket( what ever is smaller in diameter). Apply some pressure, CONFIRM everything is lined up PERFECTLY then pump the jack several times. Add more mix, walk away, come back in say an hour, add more mix,pump a couple of times, go away.
Hopefully the pin will have moved. It took me 2 weeks of doing this to a 'stuck' engine,it' started and has run fine for 20+ years now.
Removing 'rust welded' parts requires 'mix',pressure and PATIENCE. Some of the 1st two, LOTS of the last.

hope this helps
Jay

 

[fried1765]

Grow up! At 82 you think you would have learned some manners when chatting with a lady. Like most of your posts you are of no help. Just bored and on line all day. Step away from the computer and go get some fresh air. You need it!

Grow up! At 82 you think you would have learned some manners when chatting with a lady. Like most of your posts you are of no help. Just bored and on line all day. Step away from the computer and go get some fresh air. You need it!

My post #39 was tongue-in-cheek/generic, and NOT directed specifically at, or to, Tractor Gal, yet you leapt at an opportunity to angrily take offense...... for her.
RE: your 1:26AM post......That is very late,...you needed a nap!

I feel SO fortunate that you are NOT my NASTY/ANGRY neighbor!
With your level of anger/hostility, it does seem somewhat likely that you may never reach age 82.
It would seem that you may be a proud John Fettermann voter !

 

[fried1765]

I've kinda read this thread and it sounds like you want to remove pin #70, so that you can remove the cylinder to have it repaired....
I make two assumptions... 1) the pin was installed from the top down and 2) pin is now 'rust welded' in the mounting hole of the cylinder.

I'd , put a kittylitter box/ pan under the 'area of interest'. Then use the 50/50 mix of acetone/tranny oil and dribble it between the upper mount and the top of the cylinder, using an 'oil can' that has a pump squirter. Add more mix every hour. 1st thing in the morning , until beddyby time, whenever you have a free moment add more mix. do this for 2-3 days. Yes I know it doesn't look like progress BUT the idea is to get the mix DOWN the 'gap' between the pin and the cylinder, to 'wet' the rust and try to loosen it up. Hopefully after a day,or two..some of the mix HAS made it's way through the rust..
Then remove kittylitter pan, put bottle jack under the bottom of the pin. be 100% SURE the top of the jack is dead centered on the pin AND use a 'sacrificial' old socket between the jack and the pin. If the pin is 3/4", use 9/16" socket( what ever is smaller in diameter). Apply some pressure, CONFIRM everything is lined up PERFECTLY then pump the jack several times. Add more mix, walk away, come back in say an hour, add more mix,pump a couple of times, go away.
Hopefully the pin will have moved. It took me 2 weeks of doing this to a 'stuck' engine,it' started and has run fine for 20+ years now.
Removing 'rust welded' parts requires 'mix',pressure and PATIENCE. Some of the 1st two, LOTS of the last.

hope this helps
Jay

What you suggest DOES work!
I tried same on years long badly rusted together parts, and though it did take two full months....it did work!

Tapping the side of the cylinder mount where the pin goes through will also help.
If not accessible with a traditional hammer, a cheap impact hammer with blunt end head will work.
This repeated shocking will help to allow the penetrant to creep down into the rust.

As suggested above: PATIENCE is MOST important!

 

[Chanceywd]

I've kinda read this thread and it sounds like you want to remove pin #70, so that you can remove the cylinder to have it repaired....
I make two assumptions... 1) the pin was installed from the top down and 2) pin is now 'rust welded' in the mounting hole of the cylinder.

I'd , put a kittylitter box/ pan under the 'area of interest'. Then use the 50/50 mix of acetone/tranny oil and dribble it between the upper mount and the top of the cylinder, using an 'oil can' that has a pump squirter. Add more mix every hour. 1st thing in the morning , until beddyby time, whenever you have a free moment add more mix. do this for 2-3 days. Yes I know it doesn't look like progress BUT the idea is to get the mix DOWN the 'gap' between the pin and the cylinder, to 'wet' the rust and try to loosen it up. Hopefully after a day,or two..some of the mix HAS made it's way through the rust..
Then remove kittylitter pan, put bottle jack under the bottom of the pin. be 100% SURE the top of the jack is dead centered on the pin AND use a 'sacrificial' old socket between the jack and the pin. If the pin is 3/4", use 9/16" socket( what ever is smaller in diameter). Apply some pressure, CONFIRM everything is lined up PERFECTLY then pump the jack several times. Add more mix, walk away, come back in say an hour, add more mix,pump a couple of times, go away.
Hopefully the pin will have moved. It took me 2 weeks of doing this to a 'stuck' engine,it' started and has run fine for 20+ years now.
Removing 'rust welded' parts requires 'mix',pressure and PATIENCE. Some of the 1st two, LOTS of the last.

hope this helps
Jay

Sounds like a good idea Jay. That combination of the weight of machine and a good jack.
I also just looking at that diagram thinking of disassembling the cylinder in place to replace the seals etc if that is the problem.

Bill

 

[GreensvilleJay]

While you could 'repack onsite', it doesn't FREE UP the pin which just turned on THE light bulb !!

The solution !!!

Providing there's 1/8" clearance,top and btm between cylinder and mount, use a sawzall and NEW metal blade and CUT the stuck pin. Cut btm section first,then top.....
That removes the cylinder, then the 'stubs' in the mounting could be banged out. After that the piece in the cylinder can be pressed out.
The stuck pin needs to be replaced due to rust anyway.....
Price for the pin ?? Maybe $20, new sawzall blade $5 ? Time.....less than 1/2 hr.