BT600 backhoe swings right but not back left

PoTreeBoy

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
2,829
1,544
113
WestTn/NoMs
Like TheOldHokie said, they're basically a sandwich held together with tie rods, with an o-ring in between to prevent external leakage. If you take it apart, there is the o-ring TOH mentioned but also a light spring on the load check in each section.

Here's a cutaway showing how the valve is assembled, including a parallel circuit, double-acting section with a spring-centered end mechanism like your swing would have. Your section may have a load relief not shown in this picture.
Screenshot_20221217-134005-343.png

The drawing below shows the parts inside the spring-centered end mechanism which keeps the stick centered when you're not pushing it.
Screenshot_20221217-134442-933.png

With that all said, here's what I would do:
1 Make sure the joystick linkage is free to move and not hanging up on something. Maybe a cotter pin broke letting a pin slide out and hang up on something?
2 Disconnect the linkage from the spool and try to move the spool both ways. That spring is stiff - I think it takes a 15 to 20 pound force to move without the leverage of the control stick - so you'll have to rig a pry bar to pull and push it.
3 Remove the two screws holding the end mechanism on and slip the cover (5028) off. I think rust in that area is the most likely problem, if the linkage checks out ok. If you can't do this with the valve in place, you'll have to remove it which is no fun, I'm sure. You'll have to remove 14 hoses (marked first!), the linkages, and 4 bolts holding it on. Hopefully, you'll find rust is preventing movement and you can free it up.

If you get to this point and haven't found the problem, the problem must be in the valve itself. You shouldn't need to un-stack the valve up to this point. I personally think an internal problem is less likely since it's full of clean oil. But if you get to that point, report back.

EDIT: your BT600 is not exactly like the pictures posted above. Your Kubota component parts diagram is somewhat different.
 
Last edited:

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,678
5,054
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
OK, had a look at the BT600 parts online at Kubota.

simple, easy test with tractor off

Move the lever full right,center,left,center and watched the spool move. it should go up(away from body),then mostly in then 1/2 way.

Do the same for the far right lever. Although motion is opposite ,it should still move same amount or 'range'.

You may have to remove a cover ( I do..) to see the motion as you move the levers.
I'm wondering if something has bent the 'connector link' between the left left and the 'swing' spool.

This long distance diagnosis is hard ! I can't think of any reason HOW the spool cannot go down,if it can go up. Maybe take pictures of the mechanisms, easier to compare to the online drawings.

One possible idea, with tractor off, have you 'cracked' (slightly undone ) the hoses at the cylinder ? Just enough to let some oil dribble out, then retighten and try the 'non running, push lever right-left' test.
 

fried1765

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,847
5,070
113
Eastham, Ma
No, there is not a lock or kiddie guard. The spool rod for the swing action pulls up when lever is moved to the right, but will not go down when moved to the left. I have removed the cover even though that removal is not necessary to see the spool movement...or lack of movement in this case.

Do each of these "sections" come off the main group so that it can be repaired? If so, it would be a lot easier. I could put it on a flat surface and then remove and inspect the parts. I'm getting the feeling that the cylinder is not the problem but the individual control valve for the swing.

The WSM does show an exploded view...posted above. That makes me think that the individual control can be removed. BUT, it does not show how or if these control sections are attached to one another. I haven't looked closely to see. Maybe when I do, it'll be obvious.

I won't have a chance to work on this for a while. But, I will be trying to research to find out more.

TG


Maybe consider removing the valve, and taking it to a hydraulics shop for repair?
 

DustyRusty

Well-known member

Equipment
2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
6,306
4,877
113
North East CT
Easier said than done. As someone previously said that there are 14 hoses on that valve, and it is extremely tight quarters to work on that valve. If she thinks that she has problems now, if she tries to take that valve off, the problems will be 10 times worse. I had to change one hose, and having years of experience turning wrenches, I had a difficult time with it. I wouldn't recommend this to a novice under any conditions. The section can be pulled out of the valve, but you need to know what you are doing if you want to do it successfully.
 

fried1765

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,847
5,070
113
Eastham, Ma
Easier said than done. As someone previously said that there are 14 hoses on that valve, and it is extremely tight quarters to work on that valve. If she thinks that she has problems now, if she tries to take that valve off, the problems will be 10 times worse. I had to change one hose, and having years of experience turning wrenches, I had a difficult time with it. I wouldn't recommend this to a novice under any conditions. The section can be pulled out of the valve, but you need to know what you are doing if you want to do it successfully.
Next best option?
Take tractor to hydraulics shop.......or dealer?
I am not anywhere near my L48 TLB, but don't recall 14 hoses.
 

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,678
5,054
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
my guess from looking at the valve assembly online...
6 sections = 12 hoses + in and out is 14
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

leveraddict

Well-known member

Equipment
2017 BX23S 60" LP BoxBlade 54" mower 60" BackBlade EA 12" 1 bottom plow & Forks
Apr 1, 2019
907
592
93
NEPA
Could simply be a loose linkage from the handle to the spool. I think I remember this happening to another member which made me check mine. Remove the top cover where the two handles are and check it out!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

loggin

Active member

Equipment
MX4700
Sep 4, 2021
103
36
28
canada
I'm for this! I have been putting the 50/50 mix on from time to time but not faithfully, as you suggest. I'll start today. From another point of view...it couldn't hurt, especially as I mull other solutions. It's going to get cold for the next couple of weeks so this will be a good time to work at it from this direction. Thanks for the suggestion.

TG
Not sure if you have moved on from trying to remove the pin holding the cylinder in place. I tried to read all of the posts but might have missed something. Have you tried a pneumatic hammer on that pin? I find that they can be quite useful for removal of such things.

Just thought I would mention it. Hope you manage a fix!!
 

Tractor Gal

Active member

Equipment
BX23D MLB
Oct 30, 2020
506
156
43
NC
Not sure if you have moved on from trying to remove the pin holding the cylinder in place. I tried to read all of the posts but might have missed something. Have you tried a pneumatic hammer on that pin? I find that they can be quite useful for removal of such things.

Just thought I would mention it. Hope you manage a fix!!
Pneumatic hammer sounds like a good idea but I don't have access to one of those. I've actually been researching how to disassemble the swing spool valve since the "plunger for that valve will pull up but not push down. The up motion moves the boom to the right, which works well; the down motion is to move the boom to the left and it does not move. I'm hoping (in a way) that the valve is the problem although at some point, the hydraulic cylinder may need to be removed.

Thanks for your input.

TG
 

fried1765

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,847
5,070
113
Eastham, Ma
I
Pneumatic hammer sounds like a good idea but I don't have access to one of those. I've actually been researching how to disassemble the swing spool valve since the "plunger for that valve will pull up but not push down. The up motion moves the boom to the right, which works well; the down motion is to move the boom to the left and it does not move. I'm hoping (in a way) that the valve is the problem although at some point, the hydraulic cylinder may need to be removed.

Thanks for your input.

TG
I too, after all this discussion, now believe that the valve is your problem.
Now the question is: How to remove the valve for repair.
From the discussion, removal seems to me like a job for a professional mechanic with proper tools.
Actual valve repair would seem like a hydraulic shop issue.

The overall fix may not be cheap, but to use the hoe effectively it must be done!!
 

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,678
5,054
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
hmm, one possible test/fix ? you can try...
..since the spool does move from center to up position..

1) remove the 'connecting link' from the spool
2) carefully use vicegrips and rotate the spool 180* ( 1/2 a turn)
3) reconnect the link and try 'left' which should push the spool down

The hardest part will be finding the cotter pin that connects the link to the joystick,cause it'll go 'boing'.. and land 'far far away' !

BTW ,it doesn't matter which way the spool connects, original hookup or new 180* (1/2 turn ) position.

If that doesn't 'free up' the spool. I'd be tempted to 'smartly' hit the end of the spool,dead on flat a couple of times. One of those 'nothing to lose, all to gain' hail Marys.

For sure I'd do that BEFORE ordering a new section($$$ ) and tearing apart the entire control assembly.....(TIME !! )
 

fried1765

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,847
5,070
113
Eastham, Ma
hmm, one possible test/fix ? you can try...
..since the spool does move from center to up position..

1) remove the 'connecting link' from the spool
2) carefully use vicegrips and rotate the spool 180* ( 1/2 a turn)
3) reconnect the link and try 'left' which should push the spool down

The hardest part will be finding the cotter pin that connects the link to the joystick,cause it'll go 'boing'.. and land 'far far away' !

BTW ,it doesn't matter which way the spool connects, original hookup or new 180* (1/2 turn ) position.

If that doesn't 'free up' the spool. I'd be tempted to 'smartly' hit the end of the spool,dead on flat a couple of times. One of those 'nothing to lose, all to gain' hail Marys.

For sure I'd do that BEFORE ordering a new section($$$ ) and tearing apart the entire control assembly.....(TIME !! )
Are you actually suggesting to use a BFH? ;)
 
Last edited:

Tractor Gal

Active member

Equipment
BX23D MLB
Oct 30, 2020
506
156
43
NC
I'll give the rotation a try but can't get to it for a couple of days. I don't believe I would use a hammer to hit the spool, however.

I have viewed the cotter pin that attaches the spool to the lever. Perhaps if I have a magnet near, it won't fly anywhere. Should be an interesting exercise.

BUT, would you explain why you think rotating the spool would be of help?

There is a youtube on the removal of the control valve. I haven't listened to the entire thing but what i have seen was interesting. Here's the link if anyone want to view it, too.


TG
 

TheOldHokie

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
8,928
4,668
113
Myersville, MD
windyridgefarm.us
I'll give the rotation a try but can't get to it for a couple of days. I don't believe I would use a hammer to hit the spool, however.

I have viewed the cotter pin that attaches the spool to the lever. Perhaps if I have a magnet near, it won't fly anywhere. Should be an interesting exercise.

BUT, would you explain why you think rotating the spool would be of help?

There is a youtube on the removal of the control valve. I haven't listened to the entire thing but what i have seen was interesting. Here's the link if anyone want to view it, too.


TG
The spool will withdraw so its not frozen in the bore. Pretty sure its going to rotate just fine. Dont hammer on it - a little judicious leverage applied with a prybar might be OK.

Dan
 

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,678
5,054
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
there may be a slight burr ? in the valve section body, rotating may dislodge it . In any case it will not do any harm to see if it does rotate and how freely (silky smooth or kinda stubborn )
I've had much better luck using 1 or 2 quick, smart ,short ,flat blows than using a prybar and applying a lot of force over a lot of time. Same thing as removing stubborn wheel nuts.a quick 'crack' instead of a long grunt that usually ends up with a twisted off stud
It is curious you cannot collapse the spring.
Since it does move AWAY from the spring end, If (IF ??? ) there was room, you could remeove the spring end parts. Would need good copies of the diagram of 'what goes where' BEFORE you remove it AND have a few clean, white cloths under it.
again, one of those, it'd be nice to be there to see what's happening and you can use the other joystick control as a reference (same parts, just 'backwards or upside down )
 

Tractor Gal

Active member

Equipment
BX23D MLB
Oct 30, 2020
506
156
43
NC
I had decided to "take the plunge" and take the control valve to a hydraulic repair shop not too far away. After calling this morning, the guy who did that kind of repair has retired and they have no one to replace him! I haven't called the dealer yet but I haven't been overly impressed with the local dealer. The guys who sell the parts are great but the repair foreman doesn't want to be bothered. I understand to a degree but then again...

I'd love to take the valve off, put it on a flat surface and withdraw the parts to inspect but I fear it may be "above my pay grade." I may have to resort to that but we'll see.

I haven't rotated the spool rod yet but hope to do so...maybe tomorrow. There may be something in there that could be dislodged. In looking at the diagram, the spring can be accessed and a kit is available for $45+ that includes the spring...if the spring is the culprit.

Don't you just love a mystery?! :)

TG
 

TheOldHokie

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
8,928
4,668
113
Myersville, MD
windyridgefarm.us
I had decided to "take the plunge" and take the control valve to a hydraulic repair shop not too far away. After calling this morning, the guy who did that kind of repair has retired and they have no one to replace him! I haven't called the dealer yet but I haven't been overly impressed with the local dealer. The guys who sell the parts are great but the repair foreman doesn't want to be bothered. I understand to a degree but then again...

I'd love to take the valve off, put it on a flat surface and withdraw the parts to inspect but I fear it may be "above my pay grade." I may have to resort to that but we'll see.

I haven't rotated the spool rod yet but hope to do so...maybe tomorrow. There may be something in there that could be dislodged. In looking at the diagram, the spring can be accessed and a kit is available for $45+ that includes the spring...if the spring is the culprit.

Don't you just love a mystery?! :)

TG
Have you verified the spool will not move inward? If so that section is going to have to come off for service.

If ther is room to get it off the end without removing the entire assembly from the framec I would reccomend that approach. Its just a spring center valve and nothing scary inside that end cap. Once you have it on the bench the rest should be pretty straight forward. Hopefully its something simple like a broken spring.

Dan