BT600 backhoe swings right but not back left

Tractor Gal

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I had to remove a pin similar in size to that from an older snowplow this past weekend. I used a large flat-face punch, that was just slightly larger than the pin. It was stubborn, but I kept hitting it from one end and then the other. It only moved about a quarter of an inch in each direction, but eventually, it did come out. I suggest that you work it from both ends using a properly sized drift pin. I don't think that heat is going to do much for you.
Did you mean that you used a punch slightly SMALLER than the pin?

I have no way to get the tractor higher than the stabilizer will lift it so the bottom "hits" are not full strength, so to speak. The platform of the backhoe prevents access from the top so I can't get enough force to do anything from that direction either. And, this seems to be the major problem...there is no way to get to it. It appears that even if the backhoe is removed from the tractor, it would be difficult. I do not have the strength or tools to do much. Life is hard. :-(

Thanks for the suggestion, DustyRusty.

TG
 

Henro

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Here is a pic of the swing frame off of Messicks. The is a bolt (030) that holds the pin in. Is it possible that the head sheared off on the side you are looking at but there is still enough on the other side to keep the pin from sliding out???
View attachment 91891
I could be wrong, but I think she is referring to a pin on a cylinder and not item 020 shown in the diagram you provided...
 

Henro

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Just another thought. If possible you might try knocking out the pin from each side, in case there is something in there that is causing it to jam.

While I doubt it, is there any possibility the pin is designed to come out one way only?

Just brainstorming now...

In the steel mills I worked in, the millwrights always had a BFH in reserve for times like this...Big F...ing Hammer! :ROFLMAO:
 

DustyRusty

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Just another thought. If possible you might try knocking out the pin from each side, in case there is something in there that is causing it to jam.

While I doubt it, is there any possibility the pin is designed to come out one way only?

Just brainstorming now...

In the steel mills I worked in, the millwrights always had a BFH in reserve for times like this...Big F...ing Hammer! :ROFLMAO:
Big heavy hammer would be a better description to use. You are not working in the mill any longer with just men!
 

fried1765

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I could be wrong, but I think she is referring to a pin on a cylinder and not item 020 shown in the diagram you provided...
I most definitely think that you.... "could be wrong" on this!
The pin pictured is without a doubt part # 20, as DustyRusty indicates.
It does not look anything like a cylinder pin!

TractorGal should not use heat.
Heat, using either propane or mapp gas, will do nothing more than burn off the paint.

A BIG/LONG drift pin, with a BFH (small sledge) should work.
If any movement is detected, fill the now hopefully slightly depressed top of pin area with the ATF/Acetone mix, and let it sit overnight.
Try the drift pin with BFH next day......repeat ATF/Acetone/BFH every 24 hours!
Note: I actually prefer to use ATF/lacquer thinner, as it mixes better.

Last option:
Take the tractor for a visit to the dealer, or a machine shop.
 
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PoTreeBoy

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TG, can you use the stabilizers. to jack it up, then position some timbers and a short bolt under the pin, then slightly lower the stabilizer just a little to use the weight of the tractor to push the pin out the top? Maybe hammer a little to shock it. Stay clear in case it moves suddenly.
 
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Henro

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I most definitely think that you.... "could be wrong" on this!
The pin pictured is without a doubt part # 20, as DustyRusty indicates.
It does not look anything like a cylinder pin!
Well, tractorgal said the following:

"It's been quite a while since I had posted about this problem. Now, I'm back at it. This time, though, I am trying to removing the cylinder to take it for repair. One of the pins that holds the cylinder is stuck."

Sounds like a cylinder pin she is referring to
, not a pin in the swing mechanism...Hard to imagine she would be trying to remove a pin that is part of the swing mechanism...but could be I suppose.
 

Tractor Gal

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Thanks for all the replies. First, I would not have known what BFH means; my vocabulary does not entertain such. Second, it is the pin for the CYLINDER, not for the frame. Third, it is not possible to use a drift since the clearance above the pin is about 8". Subtract the length of the drift and that's the only distance for a hammer. Under the tractor is a bit longer but the impact generated is not very much. Some of that is my own "weakness."

PoTreeBoy, I was thinking the same thing myself and will try that. I had tried a similar idea in reverse...putting a hydraulic jack under and jack the tractor up. That didn't budge but maybe I could lower the stabilizers a little quickly and the "jolt" will do something.

I don't have a way to transport this to the dealer but I have found a contact that works on tractors. I will call him to see if he wants to deal with this. Not knowing this person is a bit of a concern. It would be hard to get an estimate, I would think, but sometimes charges can get out of control. Then again...what are the choices?

I'll post again when the problem is resolved. Thanks again, all. I know you deal with all kinds of things, too, and sometimes it's just not possible to DIY.

TG
 

fried1765

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"my
Thanks for all the replies. First, I would not have known what BFH means; my vocabulary does not entertain such. Second, it is the pin for the CYLINDER, not for the frame. Third, it is not possible to use a drift since the clearance above the pin is about 8". Subtract the length of the drift and that's the only distance for a hammer. Under the tractor is a bit longer but the impact generated is not very much. Some of that is my own "weakness."

PoTreeBoy, I was thinking the same thing myself and will try that. I had tried a similar idea in reverse...putting a hydraulic jack under and jack the tractor up. That didn't budge but maybe I could lower the stabilizers a little quickly and the "jolt" will do something.

I don't have a way to transport this to the dealer but I have found a contact that works on tractors. I will call him to see if he wants to deal with this. Not knowing this person is a bit of a concern. It would be hard to get an estimate, I would think, but sometimes charges can get out of control. Then again...what are the choices?

I'll post again when the problem is resolved. Thanks again, all. I know you deal with all kinds of things, too, and sometimes it's just not possible to DIY.

TG
"my vocabulary does not entertain such"

The woosification of America is proceeding as expected!

Soon BFH will be referred to as LPD (Large Pounding Device)! :ROFLMAO:
 
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Tractor Gal

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"my


"my vocabulary does not entertain such"

The woosification of America is proceeding as expected!

Soon BFH will be referred to as LPD (Large Pounding Device)! :ROFLMAO:
I'm not sure what you mean and I was not especially clear either. My meaning was that I do not use vulgar language. Maybe that will help with my meaning.

TG
 
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tbk5

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I was thinking jack too but the comment about put the stabilizers down spurred another thought. I would lower the stabilizers and the backhoe bucket to the ground. Have the bucket push off the ground to find a point that results in minimal stress on the pin.
 

L35

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I'm not sure what you mean and I was not especially clear either. My meaning was that I do not use vulgar language. Maybe that will help with my meaning.

TG
No vulgar language? What do you say when you hit your fingers with a BFH? :LOL:
 

Tractor Gal

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No vulgar language? What do you say when you hit your fingers with a BFH?
First, I say, "Ouch." Then I say, "That was a dumb thing to do."
 
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fried1765

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Keep trying!
You obviously have not yet hit your fingers hard enough.....yet!😪
 
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D2Cat

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TG, I'm guessing few of the guys on this forum are around women that have any mechanical ability, so they act as all posters are men. You have to forgive them for their shortsightedness. There are a couple of other well informed women on here and they (at least in the beginning) got similar responses.:)
 
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fried1765

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TG, I'm guessing few of the guys on this forum are around women that have any mechanical ability, so they act as all posters are men. You have to forgive them for their shortsightedness. There are a couple of other well informed women on here and they (at least in the beginning) got similar responses.:)
What you state is correct for SOME women.
Most however,.......when told so, will believe that a muffler bearing should be greased every 10,000 miles.
 

L35

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I admire your restraint!