Brake carnage!!

[mcmxi]

mcmxi If it were me I would replace the other caliper while your at it and replace all the rubber brake hoses. That truck has enough age on it the hoses aren't great on the inside. I have seen a lot of uneven pad wear from pistons that get sticky as the calipers get age on them and hoses that are not flowing the fluid correctly from age also.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm more than likely going to replace the front left caliper too with the same NAPA reman unit. I'm removing the caliper and rotor this morning.

I need to measure the rear brake lines before I order a stainless steel set and will do that today. There's quite a lead time on the brake hoses.

 

[mcmxi]

I removed the front left caliper, bracket and rotor this morning. It's not as bad as the front right but certainly on its way there.

I picked up a reman Ford front left caliper from NAPA today along with another quart of DOT 3 brake fluid. I'm all set and just waiting on rotors and pads to show up. It's quite remarkable how easily the new calipers slide on the new greased pins.

 

[lynnmor]

I had a sticking caliper on my F250 and thought that the Ford warranty should make the repair. They said that it was due to rust and I would be charged over $700 to repair the front brakes. I said that I would repair it myself and found some very light rust that didn't harm a thing and the sticking was simply dry pins. In this photo you will see that the skilled Ford technician bent the hard part of the brake hose to get at the bolt with power tools and then left it clothe lined across the coil spring where it could have failed at any time. I have to do absolutely everything because of the nutjobs in the industry.

 

[mcmxi]

I had a sticking caliper on my F250 and thought that the Ford warranty should make the repair. They said that it was due to rust and I would be charged over $700 to repair the front brakes. I said that I would repair it myself and found some very light rust that didn't harm a thing and the sticking was simply dry pins. In this photo you will see that the skilled Ford technician bent the hard part of the brake hose to get at the bolt with power tools and then left it clothe lined across the coil spring where it could have failed at any time. I have to do absolutely everything because of the nutjobs in the industry.

View attachment 130211

Damn! That's very disappointing for sure, but once again reminds me why I prefer to do all my own maintenance and repairs.

 

[mcmxi]

I just got a call from the local UPS depot to tell me that the brake rotors and pads arrived this morning, quite a few days ahead of schedule, so I can get everything installed this weekend. I might have to go back to plan A in terms of bleeding the brakes since that fancy Motive brake bleeder won't be here until next week.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

...I'm pleased with the remanufactured caliper I picked up today from NAPA. It's a Ford part that they've serviced/rebuilt and not some RockAuto mystery brand....

I order parts from RockAuto, though get commercial duty replacements; they've been great so far, better than OEM. Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.

 

[mcmxi]

I always try to buy the factory repair manuals for my vehicles and have really good manuals for the '98 Jeep TJ and '02 F250. I bought this used Ford set on eBay for $150 back in 2018 or so and it's thousands of pages of specs, troubleshooting, procedures and wiring diagrams.

I finished the front brakes this evening and will get to the rear brakes early tomorrow. Many of us here have done plenty of brake jobs over the years and they're probably one of the easiest jobs to tackle on a vehicle.

 

[mcmxi]

I finished up the installation of new rotors and pads at all four corners yesterday. I decided not to replace the parking brake shoes for three reasons. First, there appears to be enough pad material if the Ford manual spec of 1.0mm (0.039") above rivets or backing plate is to be believed. Second, replacing those shoes requires the axles to be pulled and I don't want to deal with seals. And finally, a new set for the rear is $106 and it doesn't seem like money well spent at this point.

I cleaned all the important parts, installed new rubber boots on the caliper pins, and greased the caliper pins and every other part of the caliper and pads based on instructions with the brake kit.

Now I'm just waiting on the Motive brake bleeding kit to show up so that I can bleed the brakes.

Back right.

Back left.

 

[D2Cat]

I just redid the front brakes on my dodge 2500. Pads, shoes, rotors, calipers, brake hoses.

I found these caliper pistons of Ebay and thought about using them but didn't want to wait and mess with them. They would be a bargain to replace the pistons rather then the entire caliper.

4 New Front Disc Brake Caliper Pistons 56mm Phenolic Ford F250 Dodge B2500 Truck | eBay

I do NOT have the 54 MM Pistons. FRONT Dodge 2008-99, Ford 2007-95. 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab Pickup Front. 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Extended Crew Cab Pickup Front. 2008 Dodge Ram 2500 Front Bore: 56 mm.

www.ebay.com

 

[mcmxi]

I just redid the front brakes on my dodge 2500. Pads, shoes, rotors, calipers, brake hoses.

I found these caliper pistons of Ebay and thought about using them but didn't want to wait and mess with them. They would be a bargain to replace the pistons rather then the entire caliper.

4 New Front Disc Brake Caliper Pistons 56mm Phenolic Ford F250 Dodge B2500 Truck | eBay

I do NOT have the 54 MM Pistons. FRONT Dodge 2008-99, Ford 2007-95. 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab Pickup Front. 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Extended Crew Cab Pickup Front. 2008 Dodge Ram 2500 Front Bore: 56 mm.

www.ebay.com

I'm more than happy with new rebuilt and painted Ford calipers for the price. If they were a couple of hundred each I'd probably go to the trouble of rebuilding them, but for $92 or whatever it was, for Ford parts, I'm good with that, particularly since every part except the actual caliper is new.

I've checked the rear brake hoses and have confirmed length and ordered a set of brake hoses from KLM Performance. I do a lot of towing and 22 year old brake hoses might not be the best for that application. I installed stainless steel brake hoses on my Jeep decades ago and it improved braking, not to mention the fact that the braided lines are more robust in off-roading situations.

Ford F250 F350 Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines 99-04

1999 to 2004 Ford Super Duty DOT approved Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines are custom made for the Ford F250 and F350 4X4. Stainless Steel Brake Lines eliminate the expansion of the hydraulic pressure to the brake calipers providing dramatically improved brake system response and shorter...

klmperformance.com

 

[The Evil Twin]

I'm more than happy with new rebuilt and painted Ford calipers for the price. If they were a couple of hundred each I'd probably go to the trouble of rebuilding them, but for $92 or whatever it was, for Ford parts, I'm good with that, particularly since every part except the actual caliper is new.

I've checked the rear brake hoses and have confirmed length and ordered a set of brake hoses from KLM Performance. I do a lot of towing and 22 year old brake hoses might not be the best for that application. I installed stainless steel brake hoses on my Jeep decades ago and it improved braking, not to mention the fact that the braided lines are more robust in off-roading situations.

Ford F250 F350 Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines 99-04

1999 to 2004 Ford Super Duty DOT approved Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines are custom made for the Ford F250 and F350 4X4. Stainless Steel Brake Lines eliminate the expansion of the hydraulic pressure to the brake calipers providing dramatically improved brake system response and shorter...

klmperformance.com

Does that set of lines include the jumper hose from the axle hard line to the caliper?

 

[Fordtech86]

Looks like it does for another $94

 

[mcmxi]

Does that set of lines include the jumper hose from the axle hard line to the caliper?

@Fordtech86 is right, and I ordered the complete set with the clear stainless finish. I'm not into all those fancy colors. My Jeep has the clear stainless steel braided hoses which look good decades later.

Oh, I also added the +2" lift option for an additional $3.75 so the total cost with UPS ground shipping was $330.51. Not a cheap upgrade, but worth it to me. The ability to stop is probably more important than the ability to go.

I plan on buying a new (used) truck in a couple of years or so but don't intend to sell or trade this tuck so it's worth putting money into it. I bought it from a pilot friend of mine for $8k in July of 2018 with 117,000 miles on the odometer. He was the original owner and could have easily sold it for twice what I paid for it and probably closer to $20k but wanted it to go to a good home. As an American Airlines pilot flying international it's not like he needed the money! He'd already done a number of upgrades over the years such as a Banks Power turbo back 5" exhaust system along with boost, EGT and transmission temperature gauges which I'm still running as redundant gauges since I have a DP-Tuner chip and programmer with that information on the display.

It has been a very reliable truck for me for the past 6 years requiring very little in the way of necessary work. Most of the money spent on this truck has been upgrades that I wanted to do. I sold the SnugTop for $1,500 so the truck actually cost me $6.5k.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Wow, theyal are proud of those caliper lines

 

[mcmxi]

Wow, theyal are proud of those caliper lines

Braided stainless steel brake hoses have always been expensive. I remember installing them on an Accura Integra back in the mid '90s and they weren't cheap then. I just remembered that the braided hoses on my Jeep came with the Rubicon Express 3-1/2" lift kit that I installed.

Given that a complete set of Motorcraft brake hoses costs around $160 or more and doesn't include the line from the axles to the hard lines on the body, these KLM hoses aren't ridiculously expensive.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Braided stainless steel brake hoses have always been expensive. I remember installing them on an Accura Integra back in the mid '90s and they weren't cheap then. I just remembered that the braided hoses on my Jeep came with the Rubicon Express 3-1/2" lift kit that I installed.

Given that a complete set of Motorcraft brake hoses costs around $160 or more and doesn't include the line from the axles to the hard lines on the body, these KLM hoses aren't ridiculously expensive.

Oh, I know they aren't cheap. 3 motorcycles, 2 Jeeps, 2 BMWs and 2 VWs have them. I was talking about the $94 for just the jumper hoses on the rear axle. That's the proud part.

 

[mcmxi]

Oh, I know they aren't cheap. 3 motorcycles, 2 Jeeps, 2 BMWs and 2 VWs have them. I was talking about the $94 for just the jumper hoses on the rear axle. That's the proud part.

The $94 is for the rear caliper hoses and the hose from the axle to the hard line on the frame, so that's three hoses.

 

[The Evil Twin]

The $94 is for the rear caliper hoses and the hose from the axle to the hard line on the frame, so that's three hoses.

The description on the base set says it's two front lines and one drop line (frame to rear axle). I assumed the $94 caliper lines are from the axle hard line to each rear caliper.

 

[mcmxi]

The description on the base set says it's two front lines and one drop line (frame to rear axle). I assumed the $94 caliper lines are from the axle hard line to each rear caliper.
View attachment 130654

Ooops ... you're right ... sorry about that! The front includes the frame to axle hose, so five hoses in all. It'll be a while before I receive them based on their published lead times. It'll be a good test to drive around with the new rotors and pads and a properly bled brake system, and then to upgrade the brake hoses and see/feel how much of a difference it makes.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Ooops ... you're right ... sorry about that! The front includes the frame to axle hose, so five hoses in all. It'll be a while before I receive them based on their published lead times. It'll be a good test to drive around with the new rotors and pads and a properly bled brake system, and then to upgrade the brake hoses and see/feel how much of a difference it makes.

Oh, that'll definitely be a good test! I'll bet you notice it. If you can, and have a safe place to do it, do a panic stop on the old hoses right before you switch em. Than after, go the same speed in the same spot and panic stop again.